On tap at Plank Pizza ’22, simply smooth helles lager provides muskily rustic Noble hop herbage, brisk lemon twist, pasty clay grouting and meager orange-oiled lemongrass snips to delicate salted cracker base, besting most stylistic competitors. On tap at Growler & Gill ’20, pleasant helles lager drapes dewy peat moss, dry stalked corn and grassy hop astringency over mild doughy wheat base. A fine rustic moderation.
