Sold as Pauwel Kwak Specialty Ale in larger 22-ounce bottles, broad-ranging full-bodied bronze-toned ale retains snappy acidic brettanomyces bite that flattens creamy butterscotch opening, floral-herbed yeast serenade, juicy plum tartness and curried cherry-berry spicing. Mid-palate, fruity Chardonnay-brandy-rosé wining and tart red grape tannins secure tongue-tickling hop bittering, turning overtly alcohol-ridden by stiff finish. In 12-ounce bottle, mild butterscotch sweetness enjoins dried-fruited red wining and medicinal ethanol quirk to contrast sedate up-front profile.

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