Richmond brewer captures special Belgian style nearly as well as Ommegang with this admirable unfiltered ’04 ale. Though lighter than expected, effective butterscotch-fogged knockoff gains corky medicinal warmth for connective malt-candied bruised orange and floral tangents. Apricot, sugarplum, grapefruit, then allspice, clove, and rosebud, fight for attention beneath cereal grain sweetness, finishing with balmy citrus tranquility.
