On tap at Ambulance, well-defined German pilsner offers raw-grained oats, maize and wheat desiccation to assertive grassy hop astringency and soured herbal lemon spritz above saltine cracker-like malts. But skunked yeast musk and barnyard hay-straw acridity may be off-putting to those unfamiliar with dry Bohemian-styled pils.

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