MEXICALI LAGER

Brewed in Texas as well as Mexico, this lawnmowing pale lager has a long history and its bottled and canned versions have featured many different, but similar, labels. Obvious Tex-Mex tequila-agave assertion goes fine with lemon twist. But too delicate and unassuming, lacking distinction from fizzed pilsner mouthfeel to light grained finish.

(MENDOCINO) TALON TRUE STYLE BARLEYWINE ALE

Admirable ruby-coppered barleywine (with 10% alcohol luster) enhances immediate fruity ripeness with gummy malt-yeast vigor. On first sip, orange-bruised black cherry tang come to fruition, sharpening frisky hop roast. Then, healthy prune-plum overload picks up mellow banana, genial black currant and tart grapefruit-apricot sensation. Sticky caramel-toffee thicket encases cedar-aged rum-spiced red wine finish, leaving minor vinous acidity and tannic grape dryness in its wake.

MENDOCINO SUMMER ALE

Better and more resilient than most common summer brews, this unfiltered limited edition 2005 white ale brings orange peel bittering and tangy lemony fizz to wafting vegetal acridity. Peppery coriander-mint-thyme spicing adds comely seasonal depth. Though light-bodied, its busy wheat-based mix carries through to tannic yellow grape dryness illuminating sweltering banana-teased finish, retaining brimful sunlit buoyancy.