On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, brisk pine-spruced IPA fruiting of fulsome medium-bodied hybrid infiltrates grain-roasted mocha malting and gruff charred-hop bite. Pineapple, plum, blackberry and black cherry illusions gather ’round grapefruit rind bittering as the dark chocolate notes start to gain momentum.
STONINGTON, CONNECTICUT
Arriving a bit early for Saturday’s 1 PM pouring at BEER’D, I stroll around the old storage and arts warehouse this new 3-barrel brewery in Connecticut’s seafaring Stonington calls home. Amongst the art galleries and photography studios at the Velvet Mill, Beer’d is the pride of owner-operator Aaren Simoncini, a Rochester Institute of Technology grad whose boutique nanobrewery opened belatedly due to the loss of electricity during Hurricane Sandy. Despite the historic storm’s northeast devastation, Beer’d began serving the local community by mid-November 2012. Upon my mid-December visit, three flagship beers are out strictly because of the storm’s impact.
Starting as a homebrewer, Simoncini (an accountant by day) thought about getting a loan for a larger brewing setup, but decided to keep his ambitions small, settling at this rustic white-walled, gray-floored space for the time being.
A few couples (one with a German Shepherd) and a single male drop by for growler refills while the courteous Simoncini pours me some samples. My wife and daughter head down the hall to a furniture restoration shop as I grab my first sips.
Appealingly casual chartreuse-hazed Whisker’d Wit did a fine job emulating the bright fruited Belgian style, despite purposely leaving out coriander (a key ingredient). A dainty candi-sugared curacao orange peel theme spread across its hop-spiced lemon zest, carbolic Gose-like salting and wheat-honeyed Munich malting. Citric tangerine, navel orange and clementine undertones and a wavering banana sweetness filled out the sourdough back end.
When Beer’d gets rolling full strength, other flagship beers to look for include Midnight Oil Oatmeal Stout and Anomaly Black IPA. There is a Belgian Tripel planned as well.
Anyway… my friend Dennis sojourned to Beer’d during April ’13 and got two more delectable libations. Coarsely rich Beer’d American Brown Ale tossed dark-roasted coffee bittering at dry hop-charred earthen peat, peanut-shelled walnut, Blackstrap molasses and lemon-peeled souring. Gaining acceptance by more robust thirsts, this fine offering still took a backseat to one of the best Imperial India Pale Ales in New England.
Crisply fresh Beer’d Epiphany Double IPA brought brisk piney citrus brightness to soft-watered floral spicing in a totally seamless manner. Juicy pink grapefruit, navel orange, blood orange and tangerine fruiting led the way for this truly approachable classic.
During quick June ’13 stopover, picked up growler of Beer’d Realization Double IPA, a distinct full-bodied charmer with succinct orange-peeled grapefruit bitterness lacquering mineral-grained piney hop bitterness as well as brisk red apple, brown pear, tangerine, pineapple and plum illusions.
Found two more incredible Imperial India Pale Ales while stopping by for half-hour, March ’14. Triumphant hophead delight, Beer’d Vegemite Sandwich DIPA, hid its massive 9.5% alcohol whir below delicious yellow grapefruit-peeled pineapple tang and bitter wood-dried juniper hop bite. Tertiary lemon rind, navel orange, clementine and lime illusions got sweetened by sugary crystal malts.
Utilizing the same sunny citrus template, the equally compelling Dogs & Boats DIPA gained a tropical assertion to go alongside its lusty yellow grapefruit aromatics and candied pineapple-orange-berry insistence. Crisply clean-watered Citra/ Mosaic hop influence brings springtime freshness to the brute citric force.
Also bought growler of cocoa-chalked Midnight Oil Oatmeal Stout, a solid-bodied dark ale with oats-charred brown chocolate malting and dark-roasted hops inundating dry burgundy wining, coffee-oiled bittering, burnt toast acridity and sour soy snips.
Veritable fruit-caked 2012 winter release named after famed British illustrator Ralph Steadman (whose artwork graces Flying Dog’s bottled beers) brings Belgian-styled candi-sugared dried fruiting to alcohol-burnt brandy, Cognac and Chardonnay warmth. Plum-wined frontage begets prune, fig, raisin, date and purple grape illusions above sinewy caramel malting. Tertairy brown pear, cherry coughdrop, strawberry and pineapple undertones find space.
Pleasantly hybridized holiday-spiced witbier (circa 2012) brings wispy white-peppered Yuletide seasoning to sweet orange-peeled lemondrop sugaring. Evenly spread cinnamon, nutmeg, gingerbread, clove, coriander and allspice niceties strengthen Seltzer-like citric nuances to mild honeyed wheat backbone. Moderate amber-hazed smoothie will soothe lighter thirsts.
Underwhelming yellow-paled “Vintage Age” witbier hybrid offers Sauvignon Blanc enhancement to smoothly buttered light-bodied fluff. Musty white grape tannins breach subtle white wining as floral hyacinth, lotus and hibiscus reminders fall away too quickly. Aromatic cider undertones stationed below Chardonnay and pinot grigios hints proliferate to sourdough underbelly.
Unusual purple-paled complexion greets Sauvignon Cabernet red grape wining. Soft green and purple grape tannins as well as sweet strawberry-blueberry-boysenberry conflux creates underlying pleasantries to moderate-bodied subtlety. Earthen bottom parches mild vanilla-dabbed Sauvignon finish. In comparison, Impulse retains better clarity and taste than competing 2012 “Vintage Age” Proximity.
Indistinct vanilla-chocolate front end diminishes over time. Barren coffee, cocoa bean and black chocolate notes drift shapelessly over ashen hop astringency and nasty diacetyl buttering. Dark toffee clip, light bourbon snip, distant hazelnut nip and wavered gingerbread snap fade too quickly below complacent mocha-backed vanilla finish. On tap, fading vanilla-chocolate sweetness deprived by ashen nuttiness.
Inscrutable moderate-bodied nut brown ale lacks specificity. Blatant diacetyl oiliness and phenol hop astringency deplete honey-roasted peanut, hazelnut, walnut and coal nut drift as well as mild dark toffee creaming, brown chocolate smidge and light vanilla snip.
Disappointingly amorphous English pale ale tries re-creating prohibition-era bottlegger fodder in bland manner. Phenol hop astringency and diacetyl buttering ransack vapid lemon-apple-pear fruiting. Metallic tinge and ethanol burn coarsen thin corn-dried backend.
ESSEX, CONNECTICUT
In rustic seafaring village, Essex, a stones-throw from the marina, lies historic GRISWOLD INN. Its colonial-styled white-painted exterior and forest green shutters bring a Classical provincial appeal to this landmark 1776-built restaurant-hotel.
Old wood furnishings and dozens of framed nautical photographs line the multi-room facility where several private Christmastime parties take hold this Friday afternoon in mid-December ’12. My wife and I settle behind the Tap Room in the caliginous dining area to enjoy hummus and clam chowder with Griswold Inn’s one and only perfectly centrist beer.
Not sure who truly brews Griswold’s proprietary Revolutionary Ale, but its pleasant red-orange fruit spicing and creamy honey-roasted caramel malting contrast the wispy vegetal-tinged sea-salted hop bite in a very demure manner.
For wine lovers, several worthy pinot grigios, pinot noirs, Chardonnays, Merlots and Sauvignons are available. Enjoy the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat when in town as well.