Fine straw-hazed yeast-viscous Saison-styled farmhouse ale may ‘waft’ between cereal grained pilsner and funky Dutch lager, but its kaffir lime piquancy, precocious wildflower-honeysuckle mirage, and remedial tropical fruiting tell the story. Dry-hopped earthen barnyard bottom gains footing atop herbal thyme-rosemary-geranium sequence until acetous grapefruit rind, yellow grape skin, and apple-pear confluence overcome effervescent lemon meringue fizz, picking up candi-sugared butterscotch sweetness along the way. Quite approachable and easygoing when given chance to breathe.

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