Supposed ‘full-bodied’ dark lager has a lot goin’ on. Burnt hop bittering recalls musty red ale; earthen grain insinuation provokes uncomplicated pilsner; and berry-tinged finish glides like dreary summer ale. But murky mix is problematic.
Monthly Archives: January 2009
TAJ MAHAL PREMIUM LAGER
Sweet Scotch-liquored burnt wood chip entry fades abruptly, allowing insistent barley roast to contrast dry-hopped maize astringency. Dirty grain murk drags down butterscotch-spiced creaminess and grassy straw-hay backend to dull lull. Dissipating wood-smoked curry-spiced finish lacks resilience.
TABERNASH WEISS BEER
Flowery hops, sour yeast, and silky carbonation dominate wheat presence two to one before delicate clove-nutmeg-allspice adjuncts invigorate mildly sweet lemony peach finish for truly distinct cloudy blonde German knockoff. Brewery defunct: 2007.
TABERNASH PILSNER
Middling grassy-nosed German-styled pils preserves sunny lemon spritz, bright spice hop fizz, and delicate floral mist. But biscuit snip falters, causing citric acidity to overwhelm bland grain finish. Brewery defunct: 2007.
TABERNASH OKTOBERFEST MARZEN LAGER
Moderate orange-soured coriander-spiced entry embraces barley-rye backdrop of translucent amber moderation ’til fuzzy off-dry citric finish thwarts mineral-grained nucleus. Brewery defunct: 2007.
SWINKELS PILSNER
Lofty barley-toasted cereal grain entry gains caramel malted creaminess over soft-toned tamped-down clay hop moderation to honeycomb finish. Simple, if indistinct, pleasure.
SWINKELS BROWN ALE
Ultimately tepid and weak-bodied compared to better brown ales. Organic hop spicing and mineral-grained water texture too soft for chocolate-y caramel peanut finish to overcome.
SWALE WHITSTABLE OYSTER STOUT
Dark brown complexion, fluffed-up flesh head, oak-cask wine aroma, and wood burnt chocolate malting initially capture senses for crisp mild stout. Relaxed mocha moderation enriches bitter coffee finish.
SWALE INDIAN SUMMER PALE ALE
Simply elegant fruited beauty with tarried berry entry, sticky caramel malting, fragrant floral bouquet and mild orange peel zest. Pleasant water flow and soft hop bittering lighter than most British pales, comparing favorably to a more intimate Samuel Smith IPA., perhaps.
SVYTURYS EKSTRA
Dubious clear-toned pale ale pits gaudy maize sourness against soft-toned grassy-hopped diacetyl buttering. Oncoming herbal-tinged lemon rind bitterness fades to dankly musty soapiness that devours many like-minded cookie-cutter Eastern Euros.
(DRYTOWN) SUSQUEHANNA GOLD
Soothingly mellow crystal malt sweetness lingers to bland paper-thin clay finish of mild gold-hued medium body. Vagrant barley hops swish around watery texture for incomplete, indistinct follow-up. Brewery defunct: 2002.
SUPREMA PREMIUM PILSNER
Bread-like yeast aroma stinks up room quickly as cereal grain, fresh maize, and dainty citric-floral hops pep up fizzy severity. Watery pilsner substitutes usual agavi-tequila subtleties most South American brews endure for caramelized honey nut caress and rice-like Asian template (reminiscent of Tsingtao).