All posts by John Fortunato

FARMINGTON RIVER MAHOGANY ALE

On tap, dry-bodied chocolate malting persists as vegetal backdrop builds above honeyed cocoa restraint. Fig-date recess hides oxidized acidity, but grassy hop bitterness recedes to styptic bark-like parch. In bottled version circa 2011, overpowering foam burst forth, forming ridiculously rocky tan head, so please pour slowly. Dry-honeyed rye-breaded caramel malting and sweet tobacco roast contrast mild orange-dried nut-soured hop-toasted bittering, creating sleek ESB flavor profile. Contract brewed and bottled by Mercury Brewing, Ipswich, Massachusetts.

FANTOME SAISON D’EREZEE – HIVER

Expressive hazily copper artisanal farmhouse ale brings bold 8% alcohol jab to initial Granny Smith apple tartness, secondary green grape souring, and tertiary prune-fig dryness. Earthen mineral-grained pomegranate interlude lamentably whisked away by leathery cork aridity and dank cellar acridity. Fantome, like many fine Old World Belgian breweries, enjoys experimenting within the expanding boundaries of beer styling.

FANTOME SAISON ALE

Effervescent amber-clouded herbal ‘Saison’ maintains green apple pucker, tannic white grape souring, white peach tartness, and curacao orange pleasantry typical of many established dry Belgians. Leathery barnyard waft picks up floral lavender-tulip hints tucked inside clove-coriander-cinnamon midst. Fresh artisanal water flow and polite cider-y champagne finish cleanse palate much like sorbet. Won’t scare away women and children.

FANTOME BRISE-BONBONS

Well balanced copper-hazed beige-headed barnyard-wafted artisan farmhouse saison (with vigorous 8% alcohol punch and viscous yeast sediment) places dry coriander spicing atop white peppered herbal hop must, sour apple tartness, and mineral-grained respite. Compromised lemony orange bittering recedes at buttery candi-sugared finish. Dank earthen fungi continuity will turn off less adventurous drinkers.