Decent light-bodied bottom-fermented pale-strawed Maltese lager (with billowy white head) retains miserly malt liquor aroma, dank oily maize dryness, and roughhewn cereal-grained innuendo. Soft lemon lime core overcomes vegetal snip. For low budget refugees.
All posts by John Fortunato
FARMINGTON RIVER MAHOGANY ALE
On tap, dry-bodied chocolate malting persists as vegetal backdrop builds above honeyed cocoa restraint. Fig-date recess hides oxidized acidity, but grassy hop bitterness recedes to styptic bark-like parch. In bottled version circa 2011, overpowering foam burst forth, forming ridiculously rocky tan head, so please pour slowly. Dry-honeyed rye-breaded caramel malting and sweet tobacco roast contrast mild orange-dried nut-soured hop-toasted bittering, creating sleek ESB flavor profile. Contract brewed and bottled by Mercury Brewing, Ipswich, Massachusetts.
FANTOME SAISON D’EREZEE – PRINTEMPS
Temporal white-wined Chardonnay dryness secures lasting green apple tartness and variable lemony grapefruit souring of straw-hazed dry-bodied Saison. Floral rose-saffron waft appends musty barnyard, horse blanket, and fresh-cut hay peripheral to black-peppered fruit-tannic finish. Shake up bottom yeast sediment to expose honeyed medicinal lushness.
FANTOME SAISON D’EREZEE – HIVER
Expressive hazily copper artisanal farmhouse ale brings bold 8% alcohol jab to initial Granny Smith apple tartness, secondary green grape souring, and tertiary prune-fig dryness. Earthen mineral-grained pomegranate interlude lamentably whisked away by leathery cork aridity and dank cellar acridity. Fantome, like many fine Old World Belgian breweries, enjoys experimenting within the expanding boundaries of beer styling.
FANTOME SAISON ALE
Effervescent amber-clouded herbal ‘Saison’ maintains green apple pucker, tannic white grape souring, white peach tartness, and curacao orange pleasantry typical of many established dry Belgians. Leathery barnyard waft picks up floral lavender-tulip hints tucked inside clove-coriander-cinnamon midst. Fresh artisanal water flow and polite cider-y champagne finish cleanse palate much like sorbet. Won’t scare away women and children.
FANTOME PISSENLIT BIERE DE SAISON
Herbaceous dewy earthiness informs fluffy tan-headed copper-hued artesian farmhouse seasonal, gaining peppery hop enticement over time. Floral nosing accentuates advertised dandelion twang alongside apple-fig souring and lilac-heather absorption for uncommon nightcap. Discerning tastes will want to dabble.
FANTOME CHOCOLATE SAISON
Adventurous nickel-hued Belgian ale retains viscously creamy Guinness-like thickness as peculiar cocoa nibs/ chili pepper blend informs unconventional ‘saison-styled’ oddity. Ashen chocolate malt retention invites dry rauchbier finish to counter corky quince-grape souring ultimately consumed by hot peppery aftertaste.
FANTOME BRISE-BONBONS
Well balanced copper-hazed beige-headed barnyard-wafted artisan farmhouse saison (with vigorous 8% alcohol punch and viscous yeast sediment) places dry coriander spicing atop white peppered herbal hop must, sour apple tartness, and mineral-grained respite. Compromised lemony orange bittering recedes at buttery candi-sugared finish. Dank earthen fungi continuity will turn off less adventurous drinkers.
FAMOSA LAGER
(HIJOS DE RIVERA) EXTRA 1906 LAGER
Fluffy white-headed pale-bodied barley-roasted lager with caramel-candied sweetness and mild sulfuric wisp leading to curious smooth Chablis-like finish. Lean metallic hop bitterness counters lingering buttery sweetness at back of the throat for one of the more satisfying Spanish brews. Fine as crossover for most white wine drinkers.


