Brewed since 1874, northern Minnesota brew is classified as “smooth, creamy, full-bodied lager with sweet nutty flavor.” But its funky compost aroma, peach-y pertinence, and honeyed almond presence make strange bedfellows. A weird soured fruit-rotted finish consumes otherwise easy to drink, if unusual, lager.
All posts by John Fortunato
COLD SPRING BLACKBERRY BRAMBLE ALE
Blackberry added to rich malted grain roast and pure spring water for bold initiation, but processed, ambiguous, derivative nature precludes punctual wheat essence by indistinct finish. Softly sweet raspberry-boysenberry nuance dribbles forth with veiled tartness.
COFFARO ITALIAN STYLE BEER
Originally crafted by an Italian immigrant, soft Scotch-wafted pils is as delicately simplistic as it is light-bodied and pale-toned. Instead of being a fine “alternative to table wines” (as the label proudly proclaims), its saltwatered lemon fizz, suspect corny grain mesh and baked breadstick base put it closer to a Noble-hopped Mexican brew sans the spicy tingle.
COEUR D’ALENE LAKESIDE ALE
Fetching molasses overtones and cola-like flow turn sourly dry mid-palate, appropriating blood-thickened mocha bitterness and burnt nuttiness taking hold of mahogany-hued British-styled victor.
(COAST RANGE) STRAWBERRY BLONDE
Contract brewed for Belmont Brewery, this disappointingly soapy pale body falters due to washed out strawberry gum opening and weaker watermelon follow-up. Frail cracked wheat backbone crumbles behind blanched off-dry hops. Brewery defunct: 2009.
COAST RANGE PALE ALE
Richly expressive honeyed wheat surge immerses roasted barleymalt sweetness and butternut-vanilla illusions of cloudy amber-hued winner. Tangy apricot-tangerine-nectarine amiability adds juicy sub-texture. Brewery defunct: 2009.
(COAST RANGE) NUDE BEER
Palest yellow whitest-headed golden lager rightfully popularized by topless models hidden beneath peel off label rather than boring liquid inside. Faded peach-grapefruit dryness layers bland white bread base of negligible session beer. Brewery defunct: 2009.
COAST RANGE CALIFORNIA BLONDE ALE
Mildly gold-hazed dry body retains off-putting rotten vegetal aroma thankfully displaced by bittersweet grapefruit-lemon tang and pleasant grassy hop fizz. Sadly, tinny metallic mouthfeel obstructs cracked corn-wheat base. Brewery defunct: 2009.
(COAST RANGE) BAGEL BEER PUMPERNICKEL PORTER
Contract brewed for Lotso Lox Brewery, this black beauty lives up to its bagel-centric promise. ‘Well bread beer’ piles heavy maple oats and black chocolate malts atop pumpernickel, marble rye, and whole-wheat illusions. At busy finish, black honey bittering reigns in black currant souring and dry coffee bean remnant. Brewery defunct: 2009.
CLUB PREMIUM LAGER
Bitter hop-fizzed opening punctuated by pungent earthen mustiness countering delicate crystal-malted barley-wheat sweetness. More full-bodied and classier than most South American competition, comparing favorably to mainstream stateside lagers.
CLUB COLOMBIA PILSNER
Extra dry pilsner with murky barley sweetness, cloying butterscotch mouthfeel, and maintained fizzy carbonation. Watery texture and soapy finish make this pretty plain.
CLOVIS SPECIAL ALE
Heavily carbolic white-headed amber-clouded Belgian (a.k.a. Bush 7%) with wafting citric-quince enhancing buttered honey sweetness and ethereal floral twinge. Savory dry-hopped finish features subtle coriander-clove spicing. Superfine.