Light-bodied top-fermented copper-toned bitter gains deep grain pungency, hop-charred bitterness, and dry malt ebb abruptly countering sinewy yeast sweetness. But indistinct finish lowers appeal.
All posts by John Fortunato
ANCHOR PORTER
Magnificent black-hued, thick tan-headed, chocolate-scented porter enriches creamy coffee frontage with burnt maple caress. Syrupy yeast linger usurps sugary mocha sweetness adjoining toasted hop bitterness, creating full-bodied chocolate liqueur-styled malt brew. Everything you’d hope for. As label indicates, “aesthetically pleasing and wholly superior.””
ANCHOR “OUR SPECIAL” 2008 ALE
Boozy dark-spiced ’08 seasonal sprinkles cinnamon, nutmeg, and coriander atop brown chocolate sweetness. Prune-dried sugarplum-fig illusions sweeten molasses malts countering parched tobacco pinch.
ANCHOR “OUR SPECIAL” 2007 ALE
Well-balanced cola-hued seasonal yields wintry cinnamon-nutmeg-gingerbread spicing above sweet sarsaparilla sufficiency and sugared fig-date-pecan illusions. Baker’s chocolate powdering and vanilla bean bittering coarsen residual dry-hopped vegetal earthiness.
ANCHOR “OUR SPECIAL” 2004 ALE
Serviceable clear garnet-ruby winter warmer less sweet than past seasonals, downplaying traditional cinnamon-nutmeg spicing for gingerbread-allspice-coriander conflux, raisin-currant backdrop, and molasses mellifluence. Smoked cedar and pine needles emerge mid-palate, whisked away by vegetative riptide, cigar ash dash, and cola nut hint.
ANCHOR “OUR SPECIAL” 2001 ALE
27th anniversary winter ale has a hazelnut-chestnut-walnut essence, seasonal pine luminescence, and pronounced mint-y clove follow-through. Its busy spiciness, rich creaminess, and sugary caramel malting anchor strong medicinal finish.
ANCHOR OLD FOGHORN BARLEYWINE STYLE ALE
Handmade auburn-hued San Franciscan hits frontal lobe quickly with honeyed fruit prevalence, succulent whiskey-cognac sweetness, and spice-hopped codicil. Roasted malt foundation anchors zesty bruised cherry surge and red grape-apricot-raisin dip. Flush barleywine finish provokes comparison to bolder French-Belgian ales with higher aspirations.
ANCHOR LIBERTY ALE
First brewed in 1975 to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Paul Revere’s historic ride, Liberty Ale is hand crafted at small traditional brewery. Light spice-fruited aroma, resinous mocha palate, biscuit-y wheat spine, and dry-hopped lemon rind bite beget curious red and brown ale traits. Vivacious, bubbly, dry-bodied ale pleasantly funnels down the throat to rock you like a hurricane.
ANCHOR BOCK
Early woodsy cedar chip illusion fails to supplement oncoming toffee-like vanilla-backed theme of ruby-cola-hued springtime ’07 release. Barren prune-fig segue and astringent pecan-walnut toasting coarsen tannic red grape wisp, negating baker’s chocolate, powdered cocoa souring, and anise trace.
(DUTCH EXPORT) AMSTERDAM MARINER PREMIUM LAGER
Deviating a bit from the pungent malt theme of most Dutch beers, hop-roasted bittering counters corn sugar timidity before fluctuating sweet ‘n’ sour finish adds muted lemon-lime niceties. As generic as its brewery’s name, third string Heineken rip-off finishes like a cheap corn-dredged American malt liquor. Repellent dank malt sourness, flat head, and skunked yeast mustiness worsen raunchy pale-bodied saltine.
AMSTERDAM BLONDE ALE
Perky hops enliven sweet-candied whiskey malts and yeast-honeyed wheat, creating sugared wafer mouthfeel. Fig-date souring acquires butter pecan illusion caressing trifled water-crisped barleywine finish ’til disintegrating expeditiously.
AMSTEL LIGHT LAGER
Not one of those processed American”lite” beers, but instead peppy, pliant, polite Euro lager with fewer calories – making it better than all domestic “lites,” if that’s progress. Soft, bubbly, lemon hop signature will be laughed off as lightweight and inconsequential by serious drinkers. In search of better yeast penetration, malt pungency, and citrus infusion, but not bad for saltwater.