All posts by John Fortunato

THE TITANIC

GOLD COAST, FLORIDA PREFIX: Extending North from Miami Beach to Boca Raton and West Palm Beach, this Atlantic Ocean vacation haven offered no local brews after many annual trips in ‘70s and ‘80s. In February ’03, discovered Ybor Gold Lager in Fort Lauderdale, though respective Floridian brew originates from cross-coast Gulf of Mexico paradise, Tampa. Happily, a large selection of out-of-state/ international brews could be found at 153 family-owned ABC Fine Wine liquor stores throughout area. Revisited flourishing Southern seaboard in sunny January ’08, discovering a few inspiring brewpubs that’d sprung up since ’99. Opened since 1999 and serving Coral Gables’ University of Miami campus, THE TITANIC is a snug midsize pub with green-yellow exterior, maroon-walled interior, copper-wood furnishings, expansive Americana-cajun menu, and front-sided bar-backed glass-encased brew tanks. Current brewer Steve Copeland joined me at left side bar as I got acquainted with his well-rounded fare, passing along a lovely Finnish bottled beer, Huvila Sahti (reviewed in Beer Index), as a splendid nicety. Though German-styled spice-tingled citric-tart white-breaded light body Triple Screw Light Ale only satisfies amateurs, floral-fruited cedar-licked Britannic Best Bitter and biscuit-y cereal-grained dried-fruited Captain Smith’s Rye were smarter alternatives. Better still were lemon-candied, citric-peeled, candi-sugared, corn-syrupy, curacao orange-tinged Triple Reserve Belgian Ale, mild pale-malted fig-spiced date-soured grapefruit-embittered Poinsettia Red Ale and resilient piney-hopped, orange-grapefruit-glistened, lemon rind-dried White Star India Pale Ale. On the darker side, coffee-grounded walnut-charred tobacco-burnt fig-soured Boiler Room Nut Brown sufficed while sweet brown chocolate-y hazelnut-smoked hop-roasted Oatmeal Stout rocked like the Hurricanes. For great bottled selection, try nearby Dixie Highway’s Crown Wine & Spirits, where purchaser Jeffrey Silva keeps shelves packed with sundry microbrews and imports. www.titanicbrewery.com

GORE RANGE BREWERY

GLENWOOD SPRINGS / EDWARDS, COLORADO Ten miles west of arresting Bavarian-styled mountainside resort, Vail, off Route 70 in a new mall zone, lies Edwards’ excellent GORE RANGE BREWERY. A freestanding ruddy brick building with stone backdrop and outdoor deck, Gore Range’s amenities included stone rotisserie at entrance, right side bar (with windowed brew tanks), left dining, oak furnishings, cornered TV’s, exposed ducts, and wood-fired pizzas. Adventurous brews were all over the proverbial map. Alongside tuna melt, had risqué-named Great Sex Honey Ale, a honeyed wheat-informed barley-biscuit-y orange-ripened mainstay. Afterwards, sampled cereal-grained cherry-dried tangerine-strawberry-sugared Fly Fisher Red Ale, lemony honeysuckle-endured corn-floured floral-softened King Schwing Pilsner and stimulating orange-lemon-spiced hop-fizzed White Water Wheat. Though the latter truly sufficed, sweet honey-citric cherry-peach-juiced floral-spiced Powder Day Pale Ale and molasses-thick cantaloupe-apricot-fruited grapefruit-soured wood-dried IPA proudly held their own. Nitro-injected black chocolate-chalked espresso-embittered cedar-burnt tobacco-roasted nut-charred Biker Stout impressed less. www.gorerangebrewery.com

GLENWOOD CANYON BREWPUB

GLENWOOD SPRINGS / EDWARDS, COLORADO

Passing through scenic mountain peaks along Route 70 from Mount Evans to Georgetown to Dillon and onward to Edwards, then Glenwood Springs, during unimaginably panoramic August ’07 trek, found two commendable brewpubs west of Vail prior to soaking feet in renowned rotten egg-wafted hot springs.

Inside historic tan-bricked Denver Hotel across street from Colorado River, sprawling GLENWOOD CANYON BREWPUB, formerly a liquor bottling company, maintained loud family/ sports bar atmosphere. Left bar area had glass-encased brew kettles (across from copper kettle entrance tanks), oak furnishings, expansive TV’s and stool seating. Right side dining area fronting billiard room offered secondary bar while elegant downstairs couch-furnished waiting room featured rustic beer can collection and large television.

Had beef stroganoff with raw-honeyed wheat-dried corn-sugared Hanging Lake Honey Ale, tart raspberry-dominant cranberry-soured orange-tart Grizzly Creek Raspberry Wheat and lemony hop-fizzed wheat-husked Sunlight American Wheat.

Afterwards, tried nitro-injected fruit-enlightened rye-swayed fig-date-backed Red Mountain ESB, ripe red apple-pear-apricot-fruited pekoe-tea-finishing St. James Irish Red Ale and easygoing piney spruce-tipped, grapefruit-orange peel-embittered, spice-tingled Vapor Cave IPA.

Light dried chocolate entry begot black cherry, parched fig, macadamia, anise, and espresso tones consuming No Name Nut Brown Ale.

www.glenwoodcanyon.com

DAVIDSON BROTHERS RESTAURANT & BREWERY

GLENS FALLS, NEW YORK Nestled in the heart of snug Upper New York town, Glens Falls, DAVIDSON BROTHERS RESTAURANT & BREWERY was the vicinity's first brewpub. Old brewing gear, rustic mining gear and exposed ceiling pipes give the pub a Prohibition Era feel and the brick-kettled Peter Austin brewing system provides crisp, clean ales. Open since ’96, the intimate brick tavern served typical pub fare, seafood, and appetizers. Upstairs lounge had bar and dart games. It had been eleven years since my wife and I initially perused Davidson Brothers. It was a more innocent time when the United States only had a few hundred brewpubs. Now, there's a few thousand with three new-sprung pubs in Glens Falls alone - Common Roots; Coopers Cave Ale Company; Mean Max Brewworks. On a zero-degree January '16 late-night sojourn, tried eight tapped brews starting with lightly creamed floral-perfumed lemon-soured American Bright Pale Ale and sweet hazelnut-sugared cola-nutty Harvest Brown Ale. Next, traditional English IPA (from a 19-year-old recipe), with its dewy earthiness and buckwheat-honeyed graining, contrasted Americanized I-87 IPA, an approachable phenol hop-embittered dry body pleating dewy crystal malts with grapefruit, mango, pineapple and orange tang. Brit-styled Winter Ale brought rye-honeyed sweetness to dried fig and sugared spicing while 2015's cask-conditioned Anniversary Ale retained a soft-toned caramelized buttering and dewy moss sweetness. As for the mocha-bound dark ales, Throwback Porter plied cocoa-dried black chocolate to molasses-sapped fig sugaring and dark-roasted nut char while the richer Oatmeal Stout draped its walnut-seared hop char with soothing molasses-sapped oats, brown chocolate, roasted coffee and anise illusions. During initial December '04 trip, Davidson offered their own bottled beer selection (check Beer Index) and several commendable tap-only brews quaffed on a family visit on the way to wintry Adirondacks. Beers tried on-site included wheat-sweet maize-dried German hybrid Cold Blooded Lager, resinous hop-spiced malt-toasted red-fruited tobacco-crisped Irish Red Ale; soft-toned mocha-creamed cigar-ashy Swimmin’ Cow Rye Cream Ale; buttery oats-fortified cherry-dabbed whiskey-toned Scotch Ale; prickly-hopped rye-backed tea-like Brewers Secret Copper Ale; and perfume-hopped espresso-centered dark chocolate-y dry-bodied Oatmeal Stout. Uniquely distinct was coffee-fronted eggshell-creamed Band Aid-wafted meat-cured peat-malted carouser Smoked Porter. www.davidsonbrothers.com

MARKET CROSS PUB & INN

CARLISLE, PENNSYLVANIA Before reaching Gettysburg during terse April '06 family trip, spent warm spring afternoon in Carlisle, thirty miles north, stopping by midtown staple, MARKET CROSS PUB & INN (established April Fools Day, 1994). Located ground level inside an adorable red brick building housing second and third floor garden apartments, its quaintly provincial English-styled bar is front-center with TV's on each side and dining sections to the right and left rear. Keg handles bedeck the walls alongside cool artifacts. A large mirrored Bass insignia at the bar, several Fullers banners above my table, olden wood furnishings and low ceilings provide the perfect English pub setting. Well-respected British brews on tap included Boddington’s, John Courage, Guinness and several Young’s while sundry mixers worth trying were Lava Lamp (Framboise/ Stella Artois/ Guinness), Chocolate Covered Raspberry (Framboise with Young’s Chocolate Stout), Red Eye (Harp with tomato juice), and Smoothie (Guinness with cider). Large bottled selection featuring 100 Belgian, German, Scottish and Pennsylvania microbrews plus several phenomenal Unibroue’s from Canada impressed me even further. A retired fellow at nearby table quaffed excellent Rogue Brutal Bitter while my family enjoyed English pub food and I munched Earl Of Stafford crab spread with Swiss cheese on sourdough roll. Back garage accommodated British hot water brew tanks plus wood and silver holding tanks containing fine beers and ales. Basic soft-toned citric-spiced Market Cross Red merely set the stage for worthier hand-pumped cask-conditioned Excalibur Stout, a warm black cherry-fronted, raspberry puree-backed, black chocolate-y medium body gaining mocha-hazelnut illusions ‘til vanilla bean-embittered tar-like finish. Better still: majestic Munich-fashioned Saaz-hopped Lion Heart Lager, a sharp red-fruited, cereal-grained, spice-tinged, vegetal-finishing, Helles-styled brew that tops nearly all in its class. During September '12 revisit, trivia night takes place while the first Monday Night Football game of the season is shown on both small TV's at the cozy bar. My friend, Fred, and I munch on English cuisine such as fish and chips, bangers and mash, chicken pot pie and Shepherd's pie after three orders of fabulous drunken clams. Long-time brewmaster, Kevin Spicer, readied three previously untried beers (and one flagship standard) for tonight's session. For a fruity appetizer, Midsummer Knight's Wheat Apricot retained a soapy apricot-peach tartness saddled by soft-toned hops over a delicate honey wheat base. On reinspection, Market Cross Red balanced sweet and sour citric spicing with salt-watered brining, picking up a muted perfume hop waft over biscuit-y malts. Along with dinner, Old Yeller IPA contrasted brisk grapefruit-peeled bittering with floral peach-apple-orange tang for an appealing medium body hopheads and regulars will enjoy. Cask Conditioned Bessie's Best Brown Ale stayed smooth, offering a well-watered butternut smidge to distant dried fig, toffee and vanilla flourishes as well as musty cellared fungi undertones. www.marketcrosspub.com

APPALACHIAN BREWING

Appalachian Brewing Company close to replacing one of its Gettysburg  brewpubs - pennlive.com GETTYSBURG, PENNSYLVANIA Stayed at Gettysburg Hotel (established 1797) two blocks down from train station where Lincoln delivered Gettysburg Address, April ’06. Quaffed Guinness Stout at attached Mc Clellan’s Tavern, a gorgeously snug turn-of-the-century Van Tromp mahogany bar imported from England. By nightfall, drove one mile towards historic Civil War Battlefield and nearby freestanding wood-pillared spire-roofed APPALACHIAN BREWING (thirty miles west of original Harrisburg brewery). Prominent midsize bar centered right-left side dining sections while banquet room and brew tanks bedecked downstairs area. Classical tavern food was served alongside sharp, lemony grapefruit, floral-hopped, pepper-embittered Peregrine Pils, mild apple-orange-spiced, cereal-grained, honey-malted Zoigl Lager, orange peel/ grapefruit rind-embittered Hoppy Trails IPA and creamy fruited malt softie Celtic Knot Irish Red. Heartier thirsts will gravitate towards black chocolate-dried, coffee-burnt, wood-chipped Chocolate Coffee Stout and sourer Susquehanna Stout (which tasted drier in bottled version). Really enjoyed seasonal malt-sugared cherry-bruised banana-liqueur Broad Street Barleywine and Belgian-styled Abbey Roade, a candi-sugared dark ale with peppery spices and speckled pear-grape-plum notes. Bottled Appalachian selections listed in Beer Index. www.abcbrew.com

BIG RIVER GRILLE – CHATTANOOGA

CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE Let's hear it for Chattanooga's mountains, lakes, caverns, and taverns. While Atlanta, Georgia, 100 miles South, is a vital party town and Bacchanalia’s restaurant boasts great oysters and lobsters, the home of the Braves is not well known for its wealth of microbrews (though that changed tremendously in the 2000's). Instead, I spent July ‘98 in the Peach State with cousins, parents, kids, and wife in beautiful Georgia Pines. Tucked away in a few woodsy cabins, we hiked cliffs by day and barbecued at night. Though the rural area offered very little by way of fine beers, I did discover the better than average Georgia Wild Raspberry Wheat Ale and the not-so-thick Mississippi Mud Black & Tan, which, to my surprise, was actually brewed way up yonder in Utica, New York (reviewed in Beer Index). Meanwhile, nearby Chattanooga, Tennessee, had its charming small town rewards. BIG RIVER GRILLE & BREWERY down from famous Chattanooga Choo Choo’s made fine handcrafted bitters. And those nifty mining caverns with geysers we visited along the way were magnificent. www.bigrivergrille.com

GROWLERS

GAITHERSBURG, MARYLAND

Perched between Washington DC and Baltimore, Gaithersburg’s rustic charm is best discovered at street-cornered brewpub, GROWLERS, visited April ’09.

After operating as Summit Station Brewery for eight years, Growlers came into existence during 2006 (and closed 2019). Located inside a historic red brick building at the center of town, this refurbished dig features Redskins football-inspired paraphernalia, faux-marble painted walls, antique wood furnishings, cozy right side and loge dining, and a smattering of archaic beer cans.

The left side bar had two TV's and served house beers from the windowed brew tanks. Lighter fare such as lemony grapefruit-fronted, fig-spiced, biscuit-buttered Kingpin Kolsch and mild corn-spiced D Rail Lite Ale make pleasant session beers.

Tangy peach-pear-apple-spiced, currant-embittered, grapefruit-soured, woody-hopped Engine House Pale Ale topped the bitterer Brass Lantern IPA, a briskly Cascade-hopped, alcohol-burnt, lemony grapefruit-soured medium body.

Meem’s Crème Ale gained a hop-spiced vanilla ice cream appeal that may’ve outdid sweetly soured blueberry-seeded wheat-sugared Blueberry Wheat as a dessert treat.

www.growlersofgaithersburg.com

BARLEY & HOPS GRILL

FREDERICK, MARYLAND

Family-styled eatery, BARLEY & HOPS GRILL (1999 - 2019) and visited November '06, was home to many brewers who later became quite popular. Located in a congested mall area, its red brick, green-trimmed exterior, cozy left side deck and burgundy walled interior provide pristine splendor. A white grain silo welcomes patrons to the spacious dining area. Nice wine selection and burgers-ribs-pork glut pub-styled menu.

Glass-encased brew tanks behind ample left side wood bar served generic fare including pale-malted wheat-corned sour-fruited German-styled Catoctin Clear, sterile maize-buttered caramel-cheapened Tuscarora Red, popcorn-like walnut-teased Big Ben Nut Brown and tame hop-roasted burnt coffee-soured dry Irish-styled Schifferstadt Stout.

Better beer choices were pale ale/ nut brown elixir, Dirty Nerdy (with its minor pine-hopped apple-grapefruit restraint), and bitterly red-fruited, woody Cascade-hopped Annapolis Rocks Pale Ale.

www.barleyandhops.net

BREWERS ALLEY

See the source image FREDERICK, MARYLAND Visited November ’06, this former Union-Confederate battleground near Sugarloaf Mountain 100 miles west of Baltimore hosts Brewers Alley Restaurant & Brewery and, on the outskirts, Barley & Hops Grill. Opened 1995 and centrally located in a red brick building formerly housing Frederick City Hall (and then an opera house), BREWERS ALLEY was Frederick County's first brewpub. Patrons enter through a black archway to a side entrance atrium with stain glass windows. Its olden oak bar with wood tables and glass-encased brew tanks are separate from less noisy right side dining area. Variegated menu had four different paella dishes, sundry seafood platters, and wood-fired pizzas to go with single malt Scotches, fine wines, and cognacs. Enjoyed mild corn-syrupy oats-honeyed yellow-fruited prickly-hopped Kolsch, kiln-smoked grassy-hopped grapefruit-peach-dabbed India Pale Ale and biscuit-y banana-cloved bubblegum-sweet Weizen with dinner. Inferior hazelnut-molasses-depleted Nut Brown Ale was too astringent. Hop-roasted nut-coarsened Oatmeal Stout may’ve been weak, but piney-hopped, red apple-centered, orange-bruised, apricot-ripened Resinator and gooey cherry-banana-bruised, fig-date-grape-sidled, peat-malted Scotch Ale exceeded expectations. Revisited Brewers Alley June '20 on a sunny afternoon, gathering at the black gated patio with wife and dog. A promenade was set up for Covid-19 restrictions and chairs were also set up in the street. Retried year round selections such as delicate lemon-dried, grassy-hopped, orange-spritzy Kolsch and soft-toned, banana creamed, chocolate-malted, wheat-sugared Dunkelweizen. The updated English-styled India Pale Ale retained dry wood tones, spry floral-hopped citrus tanginess and rye-spiced pale malts. As for the newly tried, mild blueberry pureed Blueberry Wheat let washed-out blueberry-boysenberry tartness recede alongside light vodka-nipped juniper above wavered white wheat base. Gentle light-bodied Pilsner placed floral-hopped herbal spicing inside husked corn-maize astringency atop biscuity barley malts. Distinct specialty grained 1634 Ale fortified its standout caraway molasses sweetness with floured rye, caramelized pumpernickel and roasted tobacco, creating an 'austere colonial' setting. Locally sourced beets gained lemony cranberry-crabapple-blueberry souring for 1634 Ale - Beets Trial, an alternative version with bitter raw molasses hiding its multi-grain origins. Velvety cask conditioned Irish Dry Stout, Trinity - Cask, brought dark-roasted coffee sedation to mild mocha molasses caking. Coffee-milked dark chocolate enriched maple-sugared oats for Oatmeal Stout, leaving a soft nutty mocha remnant on the back end. Splendid Barrel Aged Oatmeal Stout, conditioned in High West Bourbon and Stranahan whiskey barrels, retained a taut bourbon vanilla sweetness penetrating dewy earthen wood tones as ancillary creme brulee, chocolate cake, toasted coconut, fudged caramel and marshmallow illusions deepen the spirited nightcap.      www.brewers-alley.com

BLACK FOREST BREWHAUS

FRANKENMUTH, MICHIGAN

Located behind gigantic Bronner’s Christmas Store, castle-like wood-arched BLACK FOREST BREWHAUS (closed 2021) featured upstairs and basement level banquet facilities plus patio area to complement ski lodge-styled main area. On September ‘04 afternoon trip up from Detroit,  discovered many fine libations at this capacious 'Little Bavaria' outpost.

Well defined dark brews seem to be specialty, as per terrific smoked chocolate-fronted, mash tun-wafted, butterscotch-soured, maple-sugared ‘Muth Porter, dry earthen-grained, coffee-roasted, oats-charred, anise-embittered Sully’s Irish Stout and creamy chocolate malted Russian Imperial Stout (with its sugared fig-date-raisin cluster, sweet cherry wining and spiced rum lacquering).

While moderate-bodied, lemon-limed, Vienna-styled Amber Waves Of Grain Lager and pallid lemon-dried, bubble-gummy, wheat-backed Woody’s Light Golden Ale denoted lighter fare, sharp red-fruited, ruby grapefruit-tingled, perfume hop-embittered IPA, lemony pine-hopped Frolfing Pale Ale and dark-fruited, pecan-buttered, raisin-figged Scottish Rye Ale signified more complex fare.

Mediocre seasonal brews included harshly brass-toned, raw-honeyed, spice-hopped Honey Bee Wheat and phenol, floral-dried, apricot-soured Angry Bald Man Bitter.

www.blackforestbrewhaus.net

FRANKENMUTH BREWERY

FRANKENMUTH, MICHIGAN On September ’04 jaunt, discovered two opposing brewpubs in German town holiday haven 100 miles north of Detroit. While Frankenmuth Brewery offered fine conventional mainstream fare, Sullivan’s Black Forest Brewhaus concentrated on experimental American and Bavarian-styled choices. Overlooking the Cass River, spacious brick FRANKENMUTH BREWERY (operating since 1862 and the second oldest surviving American brewery behind Yeungling - re-developed after destructive ‘96 tornado) featured original beer cellar, wooden table-stool setting, high ceilings, mezzanine area, and wood carved columns at lower level bar (with six stainless steel brew tanks). Traditional Bavarian beers were bold whiskey-rye-soured hop-fizzed German-Style Pilsener and warming leafy wheat-grassed hay-leathered Marzen-styled Octoberfest. Grain-based American heartland styles included dry wheat-husked lemon-apricot-soured Mel-O-Dry Light Lager, soft-bodied corn-dried yellow-fruited hop-fizzed Geyer’s Cream Ale, sharp hop-embittered grapefruit-soured Pioneer Pale Ale, bitter lemony orange Old Detroit Amber Ale and dry wheat-breaded mocha-diluted Mitternact Muncher Dark Lager. Excellent cream-frothed, coffee-roasted, tobacco-chewed, nitro-injected Dry Stout wrangled black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and date influences. www.frankenmuthbrewery.com