All posts by John Fortunato

STEWART’S BREWING COMPANY

BEAR, DELAWARE

South of Wilmington, inconspicuous town of Bear boasted sturdy blue-collar hangout, STEWART’S BREWING COMPANY, visited February ’06, November ’07, and August ‘08. In Governor’s Square Mall behind Mc Donald’s, its brick façade entrance opens to central bar sidled by right-left dining areas. Multi-televisions plus darts, video golf, and trivia contests provide sports bar atmosphere.

Right-sided brick-enclosed brew kettles served cereal-grained woody-hopped citric-spiced softie Governor’s Golden Ale, dry red-orange-fruited pine-tinged India Pale Ale, sticky caramel-malted red apple-candied Irish Red Ale and meagerly dark-fruited crystal-malted date-fig-tinged Big Bear Amber Ale, February ’06.

Better were alcohol-smitten, piney hop-embittered, floral apple-orange-cherry-centered, brandy-candied Lockjaw Double IPA (propelled by grapefruit peel surge), biscuit-y sweet-corned raspberry-tart Wacky Wheat Ale, dry wood-smoked espresso-linked black coffee-like Pacific Coast Porter and sugary citric-tart lemon-curried alcohol-sharp Stumblin’ Monk Triple.

November ’07 offerings included wood lacquered twig-leafed grapefruit rind-embittered Rocky Mountain IPA, pumpkin pie-crusted, cinnamon-allspice-clove-spiced, hop-tingled Mischief Night Pumpkin Ale and Band-aid-wafted, wood-smoked, tobacco-chewed, Belgian chocolate-sopped, black coffee-finishing Smoked Porter.

Best bet: black chocolate-y hop-toasted nut-roasted coffee-beaned softie Highlander Stout.

August ’08, enjoyed Maryland Crab Bisque after soaking up oaken vanilla-softened bourbon-blustered hop-roasted firewood-charred Bourbon Stout (with its black cherry, white grape and green raisin souring).

For dessert, thoroughly enjoyed Cherry Dubbel, a Belgian-styled Abbey Hoffman Dark Strong Ale re-fermented with raspy sour cherries. Its smoothly medicinal cherry-ripened surge received candi-sugared cranberry, mulberry, and red grape tartness.

www.stewartsbrewingcompany.com

IRON HILL BREWERY – WILMINGTON

WILMINGTON, DELAWARE

A short drive East from Newark, headed to port town of Wilmington, February ‘06. Along the waterfront in large freestanding red brick building next to Big Kahuna and Joe’s Crab Shack is, in my opinion, the best IRON HILL BREWERY.

Opened in 2002, its great Americana menu included succulent gumbo, cheese-thick French onion soup, and plentiful Cobb Salad. Brew tanks were staged left and multi-tiered and upstairs dining was available. Outdoor canvassed deck led to Industrial riverbank.

Cedar bar served specialty-seasonal beers previously unfound at other Iron Hill brewpubs. Fizzy bitter-hopped Munich Dunkel offered cinnamon-clove snip to raisin-fig-date conflux.

Dryly lactose Nitrogen Poured Pig Iron Porter merged black chocolate with espresso while delicately creamy Russian Imperial Stout juxtaposed soft cherry-berry conflux against burnt-toasted black coffee. Superfine Iron Hill Rauchbier, $16 per bottle, went well with dessert (see review in Beer Index).

Acquainted myself with Iron Hill-Wilmington’s Brian Finn, one of the more affable and un-conceited brewmasters, during November ’07 Wilmington stopover. Quaffed four diverse libations.

Dried plum, sugared fig, and dark cherry obliged earthen vegetal midst of lightly watered Altbier and pumpkin puree exhausted the herbal-hopped allspice-nutmeg-cardamom spicing and nutty caramel flicker backing moderate-bodied Pumpkin Ale.

Better was well-rounded Hopkowski Double American Ale, coating bittersweet bruised orange, cherry puree, and stewed prune with luring chocolate-caramel malting to appease imminent candied medicinal warmth.

Highest recommended goes to Bourbon Porter, the nitro-injected Pig Iron Porter offshoot aged in Four Roses whiskey barrels. Its pronounced bourbon-dried sweet whiskey entry garnishes chewy chocolate-vanilla-caramel malting plus cherry puree, sugar plum, syrupy liqueur, creamy éclair, hazelnut, and marshmallow illusions for perfect wintry nightcap.

During August ’08 journey to University of Delaware, ate delicious salmon spring rolls and Mediterranean wrap alongside honeyed corn-malted lemon-bruised juniper-grapefruit-embittered white peppercorn-finishing Saison Belgian Farmhouse Ale.

After lunch, quaffed washed-out banana-orange-licked clove-spiced lemon-wedged dry-hopped Hefeweizen (which sacrificed honeyed creaming for mere carbolic fizz).

Finally got to revisit fantastic riverfront brewhouse again after Outer Banks voyage, July ’18, taking seats outback at one of the aluminum-roofed metal-furnished tables . Most of this evening’s previously untried fare leaned towards the light summery side.

Delicate Witberry Witbier scurried tart raspberry passed spritzy orange-peeled lemon misting and wispy wheat sweetness. Mellow Watermelon Wit needed deeper coriander-spiced watermelon tartness and tangier mandarin orange subtlety to overcome herbal cellar funk.

Zesty white-peppered lemon-juiced Mahalo, Apollo!, a hybrid Belgian wheat ale, utilized subtle lemongrass and passionfruit adjuncts to retain its sparkly understated wanderlust.

Also on the pallidly fruitier side, approachable Mango IPA thrust forth with sweetly tanged mango essence before its bitter orange rind-infused hop pining ascended.

Soapy farmhouse-desiccated Saison retained a cidery lemon souring and black-peppered musk that undermined its spicy orange tartness and sourdough malting.

Perfectly centrist India Pale Ale, Crusher, let sharply bittersweet tropical fruiting come to the fore, loading pineapple-grapefruit-tangerine tanginess atop lightly pined grassy hop astringency and mild biscuit base.

Better still, tropical New England-styled Chewy IPA brought sunshiny orange-peeled yellow grapefruit tanginess to crisply clean mineral graining and resinous pine hops.

Piney orange rind moderately embittered Hopicana IPA, an otherwise sweet Orangina-like soda pop with tangible tangerine tang.

Lemon-limed Citra IPA rallied with brisk orange, peach, mango and pineapple tanginess over lightly sugared pale malts.

As a dusky nightcap, sharp citric hops endowed Honey Cash Hops, a West Coast-styled India Pale Ale with sun-glazed yellow grapefruit, orange rind and pineapple tang.

During sweltering July 4th, 2019 visit, tried five more sound suds.

Subtle spicy yellow fruiting consumed soft-toned Belgian pale ale, Skinny Blonde, leaving banana, lemon and mango illusions upon its funky Belgian yeast herbage.

Lemon-candied raspberry rasp greeted light-bodied Witberry, blessing its stylish orange-peeled coriander sweetness with soap-stoned herbal wisps and delicate floral nuances.

Lactic kettle-soured Watermelon You Lookin’ At relegated its salted watermelon candied tartness with lemony melon rind snips and yogurt-like milking.

Herbal lemon tartness contrasted creamy pale malt sugaring for Ore House IPA, plying grapefruit-peeled pine needling to the brisk finish.

Citric-spiced piney bittering led Smash Series 10 IPA, a dry Eldorado-hopped medium body with frisky grapefruit, peach, orange and mango juicing coating its sugary pale malt spine.

www.ironhillbrewery.com

IRON HILL BREWERY – NEWARK

Newark, DE - Iron Hill Brewery
NEWARK, DELAWARE

Took terse two day excursion to northern Delaware, February ‘06. At first stop, situated in the heart of historic colonial town, Newark, lies the original IRON HILL brewpub (the first of five within 50-mile radius). Amongst well-kept rustic red brick buildings, this University of Delaware hotspot only served beers I’d already reviewed at West Chester, Pennsylvania pub months earlier.

Main Street deck welcomes patrons entering to prominent centralized cedar bar (with 4 TV’s). Rear dining available. Wood oven pizzas, brunch specials, and nifty appetizers went well with lighter brews.

On drive back to Route 95, stopped in State Line Liquors, a great beer shop (with 400 choices) bordering Newark in Elkton, Maryland. Bought Great Divide Yeti Imperial Stout (and Oak Aged version), Heavyweight Saison-Spicy, Three Floyds Black Sun, Rogue Seahorse, and Lia Fail Stone of Destiny.

www.ironhillbrewery.com

A1A ALEHOUSE

DAYTONA BEACH / ST. AUGUSTINE, FLORIDA

St. Augustine’s A1A ALEHOUSE has a prominent spot across the waterfront with a panoramic view of Matanzas Bay from its second floor patio (visited April ’04). Lasting 29 years until May 2024, A1A stopped brewing in 2017.

Alongside New World cuisine, quaffed soapy wheat-husked King Street Light Lager (suiting indiscreet novices), soft-toned raspberry-seeded peach-melon-draped Raspberry Light Ale (befitting fruit lovers) and Cascade-hopped melon-mango-berry-induced Red Brick Ale (a fine sedation).

Perfume-fruited spice-hopped Irish Red Lager tingled; English-styled citric-hopped Porpoise Point Pale Ale mingled; mildly caramelized mocha-sweet Bridge Of Lions Brown Ale seduced; and dry coffee-roasted maple-sapped nut-sharp A. Strange Stout tamed hearty thirsts.

www.a1aaleworks.com

HOPS – DAYTONA BEACH

DAYTONA BEACH / ST. AUGUSTINE, FLORIDA

Got to visit Daytona’s bustling HOPS (across from famous NASCAR speedway) and provincial St. Augustine’s A1A Alehouse, April ‘04.

With nearly 100 locations in the United States, HOPS regularly brews the following: citric-teased wheat-backed bubblegum-like Clearwater Light; caramel-malted stone-fruited hop-sharp Lightning Bold Gold; tinny red-fruited Hammerhead Red; dry cocoa-malted porter-styled Alligator Ale.

Seasonal delight Flying Squirrel Nut Brown Ale bested these with its subtle coffee roast and hazelnut-chocolate confluence.

By 2008, HOPS was closed, but its affiliated brewery-restaurants in Colorado, Virginia, and North Carolina have thus far survived.

ROOSTERFISH BREWING

Rooster Fish Brewing Company
CORNING / WATKINS GLEN, NEW YORK

Along Watkins Glen’s main strip, stayed at rustic Watkins Glen Hotel’s beautifully renovated Seneca Suite with family July ‘05, imbibing nearby microbrewers’ Ithaca Pale Ale and Ithaca Nut Brown (reviewed in Beer Index) prior to watching sloshed Bad News Bears remake.

Afterwards, hit Crooked Rooster across street. Now known as ROOSTERFISH, the small neighborhood joint’s beautiful wood carved mantle piece shelved liquor bottles galore, the ancient wood refrigeration unit contained bottled beers, and the original tin ceiling was intact above green walled interior. To the rear of back dining area sat smallish brewing system, which unfortunately, wasn’t operating at this juncture.

But several local patrons pounding down a Bailey’s Irish Cream, Jameson Whiskey, and ½ pint Guinness concoction claimed Butternut Pale Ale and Black Walnut Ale go good with Southwest cuisine.

Since then, I’ve consumed tapped versions of Scotch Ale and Hop Warrior during 2012 (reviewed in Beer Index).

www.roosterfishbrewing.com

MARKET STREET BREWING

Market Street Brewing Company & Restaurant
CORNING / WATKINS GLEN, NEW YORK

Sojourned to picturesque Finger Lakes area July ’05. In the midst of cornfields and mountains off Route 86 lies downtown Corning’s glass museum and the historic red brick area where MARKET STREET BREWING is situated. Brew tanks at street entrance welcomes patrons to old bar with great mahogany mantle. Right side covered deck and backside dining room surround bar area (pew booths and wood stools) as kitchen serves sandwiches, wraps, seafood, pork, and steak. Back deck on second floor adds comfort and, strangely, stage area for local entertainment is in brew staging area.

Only handcrafted beers are served here, including mildly acidic lemon-fizzed soft-watered Mad Bug Lager, subtly yellow-fruited berry-soured spritzer Brisco Bridge Blackberry Lager, piney peppery-hopped citric-backed Pot Belly Pale Ale and chalky char-hopped wood-smoked raisin-chocolate-y English-styled D’Artagnan Dark Ale.

Also on tap were dainty prickly-hopped fruit-spiced chocolate-malted Wrought Iron Red Ale and phenol hard-candied banana-berry-influenced German-styled Strawberry Fields Forever Wheat Beer.

www.936-beer.com

BARLEY’S SMOKEHOUSE & BREWING – COLUMBUS

Smokehouse Brewing Co. | Columbus, OH | Beers | BeerAdvocate

COLUMBUS, OHIO

Near the campus of Ohio State University, North High Street’s downtown BARLEY’S SMOKEHOUSE & BREWING bettered local competitor Columbus Brewing but not Elevator Brewery, June ’04. Beginning in ’92, Barley’s Smokehouse is Columbus, Ohio’s first brewpub. Since I met Britt Daniel that afternoon at a small High Street pool club, I also got to attend the Spoon show that evening for perfect beer-and-music nightcap.

Over two-hour late afternoon period, I quaffed summery yellow-fruited barley-toasted Saaz-hopped Pilsner; lively dry-hopped whiskey-malted red apple dabbler Mac Lenny’s Scottish Ale; frisky fruited prickly-hopped Pale Ale; cherry-toned whiskey-malted J. Scott Francis ESB; and light pale-bodied American-styled grassy-hopped Wheat.

Best bets: creamy caramel-malted Grand Marnier-liqueured orange-bruised fervency Glenlenny’s Scotch Ale (and its tremendous cask conditioned version) and alcohol-induced, overripe red-black cherry-sweetened, coffee-caffeine-daubed Anastasia’s Russian Stout.

www.barleysbrewing.com

COLUMBUS BREWING

First Look: Columbus Brewing Co. Opening New Beer Hall in the Trolley  District - Columbus Underground
COLUMBUS, OHIO

In June ’04 mid-America excursion, found Ohio Capitol’s Brewers District on South High Street, which houses Victory’s, High Beck Tavern, Barrister Hall, Metro Bar & Grill, and Buffalo Wild Wings Grill & Bar.

Nearby, Short Street’s choice COLUMBUS BREWING offered prickly-hopped wheat-dried low-carb Short Street Sabre; mildly citric-soured summer softie Kolsch; sourdough pumpernickel Golden Ale; tropical mango-melon-fruited wheat-honeyed Apricot Ale; pliant citric-metallic Pale Ale; wispy lemon-wedged Wheat; coffee-toned hop-roasted stout-like Nut Brown; and black chocolate-sweet coffee-burnt 1859 Porter.

www.columbusbrewingco.com

ROCKY RUN TAP & GRILL

Rocky Run Tap & Grill | Flickr
COLUMBIA, MARYLAND

In a freestanding tan building with red-green trim inside Dobbin Square Mall five miles south of Ellicott City, Columbia’s ROCKY RUN TAP & GRILL (closed September 2007) had outside deck, rear dining, and glass door-separated sportsbar (with multiple NFL games on several TV’s, wall-strewn brewer’s posters-insignias, and extremely cool tap handles).

Visited November ’06, left side glass-encased brew tanks served menial fare to go with pub grub. Pale malt-softened cereal-oats-deferred mild-hopped Bar Wench Brew Golden Ale, tartly acidic citric-candied sorghum-neutered Maple Leaf Lemon Wheat, diacetyl cornmeal-biscuit-y Big Gut Pale Ale and oily prune-fig-grape-fronted ice coffee-barren Brewhouse Barrel Stout were run of the mill.

Try instead, honeyed amber-grained, caramel-malted tranquility Mountie Red.

www.rockyrun.com

PHANTOM CANYON BREWING

COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO

Owned by Wynkoop Brewery of Denver, front-patioed PHANTOM CANYON BREWING, visited August ‘07, resides at a historic building nearing East-meets-West railroad juncture. Dimly lit with prominent stain-glassed L-shaped mahogany bar, sidewinding dining space, exposed ducts, and windowed brew tanks bedecking busy restaurant, its left red brick-walled section provides fine dining while second floor billiard hall and third story banquet room add further eloquence.

Lemony grapefruit-spiced raw-honeyed wheat-dried peppery-hopped Queens Blonde Ale, fizz-spiced banana-sweet lemon-dropped mandarin orange-dabbed Hefeweizen, dry-hopped honey-dipped soft-grained Railyard Amber Ale and kindling-hopped barley-toasted orange-burnt tobacco-dried tea-like Cascade Amber Ale were routinely standard.

Enjoyed grapefruit rind-embittered piney-hopped orange-tart The Phantom IPA, peaty Band-aid-wafted, oily coffee-dried, fig-soured, black chocolate-finishing Peated Porter and coffee-chocolate-centered Stonehead Stout a bit better.

Worthy seasonals were dry ginger-profiled eucalyptus-spearmint-lilac-freshened raisin-tinged East Meets West Ginger Beer and lemon-bruised white-peached corn-starched hop-fizzed Demolition Cream Ale.

Best bet: startling Oak-Aged Imperial IPA, a sharply alcoholic digestif with peach liqueur sweetness bulging grapefruit, baked apple and curacao orange illusions.

www.phantomcanyon.com

JUDGE BALDWIN’S BREWING

Colorado Springs Judge Baldwin's Brewing Co. becoming Duca's Neapolitan  Pizza and Italian eatery | Dining | gazette.com
COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO

Home to Air Force (ten miles north of downtown) and formerly a mining-milling site, Colorado Springs fronts altitudinous Pikes Peak an hour south of Independence Pass traveled August ‘07. Within one midtown block are two conservatively tantalizing brewery/ restaurants. On left side of colossal Antlers Hilton hotel, upscale sports bar JUDGE BALDWIN’S BREWING (1991-2016) featured beautiful mahogany bar and furnishings, several televisions, exposed rear kitchen (near brew tanks), and elegant Classical appeal enforced by Victorian ceiling.

Short Americana menu included delicious pita and vegetable dip (with hummus). Though light-bodied lemon-wedged raspberry-sweet clove-coriander-spiced bubblegum-tinged Raspberry Wheat, tangy lemony grapefruit-fronted white-breaded Kolsch-styled Champion Wheat and buttery Scotch-flecked lemon-limed grass-hopped #3 Lager only registered ethereally, the final three brews made a great impression.

Wellington Pale Ale had honey-sweetened caramel-marzipan fortitude increased by tart berry and dry-hopped grapefruit twist while dried orange tang soothed toasted caramel malting of Cascade Amber Lager.

Perfecting bastardized Belgian styling, Flemish Oud Bruin regaled spiced banana theme for candi-sugared cotton-candied rum, cocoa, vanilla, and marshmallow warmth.

www.antlers.com