All posts by John Fortunato

(SHMALTZ) CONEY ISLAND LAGER

Crystalline soft-watered copper-hued moderate body not up to snuff in bottled format. Czech pilsner yeast lacks thrust as rye-wheat frontage falters, lemony floral-hopped grapefruit-orange souring evaporates and tangy apple-peach-grape aspect never challenges. Bland peat malts dim honeyed tea dearth. On tap, busier grain-toasted red-orange fruiting engages caramel-vanilla sweetness to twiggy finish more sufficiently.

SHIPYARD WINTER ALE SPECIAL BREW

Bitterly dry-bodied, ruby-glowed, amber-hued seasonal binds holiday-spiced nutmeg-cinnamon-clove serenade, ripe raspberry-strawberry tartness, sharp herbaceous hop resonance, and glancing wood tone to buttery caramel malting. When astringent metallic missive flags, sullen cherry, fig, pear, and red apple nuances sweeten biscuit-y wheat finish, leaving ashy orange rind wake.

SHIPYARD PUMPKINHEAD ALE

Subtle autumnal pumpkin pie spiciness adjoins mild brown-sugared cinnamon-nutmeg-clove adjuncts. Watery finish depletes tangy lemon-orange drift, but this is a fine medium-bodied straw-hued crossover for pilsner-lager fans. 2012 re-tasting: Sunny lemon spritz and cinnamon-toasted pumpkin spicing increased volume over cardamom-coriander-ginger spicing as well as vinous green grape and cider nuances.

SHIPYARD PRELUDE SPECIAL ALE

Musty alcohol-fueled winter warmer ripens to sweet-tart red apple simmer with subsiding grain backbone losing out to dark-fruited prune-raisin sharpness. Upon ’08 re-tasting: astringent coffee-burnt walnut-cola nut divergence sidles ashen brown-sugared caramel-butterscotch sweetness, distant cherry-fig wisp, and negligible nutmeg-cinnamon spicing to metallic end.