NINKASI / DEVIL’S BACKBONE THE DEVIL WENT DOWN TO OREGON IMPERIAL DARK RYE ALE

On tap at Ambulance, worthy Oregon-Virginia collaboration offers buttery rye-toasted honey nut sweetness, spiced prune-raisin richness and dry cereal graining to sharp charred hop thrust and subtle grapefruit dirge. Mild chocolate roast inundates caraway-seeded chestnut, almond and praline subsidy. In the 22-ounce bottle, heady auburn-browned roggenbier brings spicier prune-raisin affluence to Blackstrap molasses-sapped pumpernickel rye thrust.

STONE SAISON

“Modern take on Belgian classic” is apropos motto of resolute farmhouse ale. Though not as audacious as indicated, its winningly tweaked formula ulitizes lemon zest, grains of paradise, lemon thyme and lavender adjuncts to counteract embittered black tea resonance. Dry white-peppered herbal stronghold picks up rustic barnyard acridity and floral respite to engage summery sweet ‘n sour citric slumber.

BEAR REPUBLIC CUVEE BUBBA WILD ALE

On tap at Ambulance, inviting oak-aged sour ale brings mildly vinous wining to dry barnyard leathering and ‘cherry pie’ souring, maintaining large head retention. Tannic grape pucker never gets oppressive, allowing crossover possibilities for more mainstream thirsts. Dark purple grape-skinned pinot noir tones scurry across pinkish blush rosé snips and black grape-skinned zinfandel notions as well as tart plum, quince and berry wisps.

DU CLAW / CIGAR CITY IMPEY BARBICANE’S MOONGUN SESSION AMBER ALE

Abstruse collaboration may be sessionable, yet its stylistically rich and adventurous for a mere amber ale and therefore hard to pin down. Herbaceous orange-oiled lemon musk picks up dewy sweetness to contrast oats-flaked pale malting, torrified wheat starching and dank leafy hop resin. Tertiary tangerine-clementine tang and marginal rhubarb souring distend dry citrus spell.