ATLAS BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS

Along Chicago’s youthful northwest Lincoln Park section, brown-wood-paneled gastropub, ATLAS BREWING COMPANY, opened in June 2012 (then closed in 2018). Brotherly brewers’ John and Ben Saller took the Atlas moniker from a pre-prohibition brewery specializing in diverse ales.

Competing with established local competitors such as Revolution and Piece, this laid-back modern Industrial lounge features one large community table, several booths, overhead Edison bulb lighting and black tin tiling. Glass-encased stainless steel brew tanks at the rear hold the soft-toned liquid gold soon to be consumed. And at the 15-stool right side bar, glass mosaic-tiled tap handles serve the nine hand-crafted brews to be had on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, July ’14.

Since the eight-tabled front deck is completely full, my small coterie decides to sit inside at a booth to quaff a few five-ounce samplers. Alongside the lightest fare, I munched on the outstanding cheese-sauced mussels and duck confit. Though diacetyl buttering disrupted corn-malted perfume-hopped Prager Pilsner, moderate flagship offering, Diversey Pale Ale brought decisive IPA-like fruiting (yellow grapefruit, orange rind, pineapple and mango) plus floral-perfumed hop bittering to bark-dried wood tones.

Belgian saison yeast spiced up yellow-fruited Farmhouse Wheat Ale, a light-bodied nicety gathering lemony Bartlett pear, banana, plantain, grapefruit and pineapple briskness for its sweet lychee-spiked wheat base. In a similar vein, mild tropical-fruited Two-Headed Boy Belgian Pale Wheat covered its sugary bubblegum yeast with dry-hopped grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering.

A limited edition collaboration with nearby Une Annee Brewery, Raspberry Brown Saison, brought sweet ‘n sour raspberry tartness to zesty lemon, oaken cherry and vinous grape notions, finishing dry (with a nutty quirk).

More adventurous fare included Americanized Belgian pale ale, Archaeopteryx Dreamcoat, a ‘juicy citra-hopped’ moderation with yellow and pink grapefruit tartness, lemon rot souring, green apple pucker and advertised orange-blossomed blueberry subtleties. Just as pleasurably hybridized, floral-bound Rookery Rye IPA used grapefruit and gooseberry flavors to advance its rye-dried multi-grain breaded appeal.

On the dark side, chocolate-sugared Invincible Armor Robust Porter possessed a smooth dark-roasted mocha malting and dried cherry tang while lightly creamed Freight Handler Milk Stout plied smoked black chocolate to lactic cocoa-dried Baker’s chocolate and cacao nibs snips.

www.atlasbeercompany.com

 

SOLEMN OATH BREWERY

United States Brewpubs

NAPERVILLE, ILLINOIS

The undisputed crown jewel of conservative suburb, Naperville, SOLEMN OATH BREWERY began crafting interesting Belgo-American-styled ales in 2012, developing a distinct flare for remarkably adventurous and original fare along the way. Located in a light industrial park warehouse, this daring no-frills brewhouse has built quite a sturdy reputation among local beer geeks and fanatical brewpub travelers. Brewing an endless assortment of stylishly diverse ales from large stainless steel vessels and massive fermentation tanks, Solemn Oath has expanded exponentially since opening. As of my July 2014 jaunt, the dedicated staff now bottles, kegs and taps its highly respected product for Chicagoland consumption.

Upon entering the left side door of this off-white cement-floored edifice, an L-shaped serving station accommodates a packed late afternoon crowd. Nirvana’s raucous anthem, “Smells Like Teen Spirit” blares in the background as my friend, Scott, and I sample eight endlessly rewarding and stylishly hybridized libations. Many of these selections, plus a few others bought in bottle, are reviewed more fully in the Beer Index.

Light-bodied farmhouse ale, Hexafoos, began our session. Its fruity saison yeast ‘zang’ retained a white-peppered lemon pit sourness and mild herbal bittering, allowing mandarin orange, blood orange and tangerine illusions to flutter past whimsical chamomile snips.

Bettering most casual pale ales, the santiam-hopped version of Skinny Jeans Are Ridiculous possessed an herbal fruited pleasantry layered above dry pale malts. Its sweet citric zest and lemon-dropped grapefruit tartness contrasted hop-oiled hemp notions, picking up a broadened juniper bittering by the bold finish.

Boasting large amounts of grapefruit, pineapple and mango, tropical-fruited pale ale, Snaggletooth Bandana, brought buttery malt creaming to floral-hopped phenolic astringency.

A neat collaboration with Stone, ‘red’ farmhouse ale, Pyrros,  seemed reminiscent of a Flanders Red with its tannic red cherry tartness, vinous green grape esters  and light Sherry illusions downplaying unanticipated pepper-spiced herbage.

Effervescent Belgian IPA, Butterfly Flashmob, offered dry tropical fruiting to floral-bound herbage and salty hop-oiled spicing. White-peppered yellow grapefruit rind, sweet orange peel, sweet banana and pineapple coast alongside crystal malts.

Approachable saison moderation, Whisper Kisses,  softened its white-wined Chardonnay buttering with light grapefruit-orange tartness, lilting lemongrass liming and floral-hopped pleasantries (layered above a biscuity malt base).

Black kolsch-styled Eigengrau stayed subtle as light-roasted black patent malts skewered its coffee-burnt hop char and smoked chocolate subtleties. Powdered cocoa and Baker’s chocolate whims skim the surface.

Perhaps the best offering, Foux Du Fafa, a floral-fruited Imperial farmhouse IPA (with well-hidden 10% ABV), balanced crystal malt sweetness with delicate citric-hopped bittering. Lemon zest, orange blossom, vinous grape and yellow grapefruit illusions abound over earthen minerality.        

www.solemnoathbrewery.com

BAVARIAN LODGE

BEER PUB

Restaurant Review - Bavarian Lodge — Backyard Oktoberfest

LISLE, ILLINOIS

Exquisitely rewarding gastropub, THE BAVARIAN LODGE, may have the best beer selection in Chicago’s affluent northwest suburbs. Matching the elegant splendor of an Alpine hunting lodge with the cozily rustic warmth of an English pub, this genteel Ogden Avenue hotspot clearly puts the tiny village of Lisle on the map. Beautiful wood decor, vintage art deco, gold-foiled ceiling tiles, stain-glass tulip lamps and multiple beer plaques line the low ceiling pub area and a stone hearth reinforces the antique lodge-like setting. A separate intimate dining area suits families and large parties.

Serving an amazing selection of 38 rotating tapped beers and 150-plus bottles alongside generously portioned authentic German cuisine, The Bavarian Lodge blew away Du Page county’s craft beer competition on my initial visit, July 2014. Sitting at the U-shaped bar for dinner with my college pal, Scott, I ordered the delicious potato pancake appetizer and liver dumpling soup with the ample Roast Duck platter. Local denizens recommended the Weiner Schnitzel, Kassler Rippchen (wood-smoked pork chops), Schweins Hax’N (pork shank), Hungarian ghoulash and bratwurst.

On this busy Wednesday evening, one admirable cask-conditioned bourbon from Michigan’s famed New Holland Brewery (made in Dragon’s Milk beer barrels) is available to quaff along with special one-off ‘new arrivals’ such as Germany’s Alpirsbacher Klosterbrau Pilsner and Plank Heller Weizenbock, Belgium’s Dieu Du Ciel Rosee D’Hibiscus, Stone ‘Crime’ Bourbon Barrel Aged Ale (with dry-hopped chili peppers) and Three Floyds Backmasking Oatmeal Stout.

For starters, I order three previously untried brews from Indiana mainstay, Three Floyds. Renowned mild pale ale, Three Floyds Zombie Dust, brought beautiful floral-fruited IPA-like zest to mild resinous pine bittering, contrasting wheat-honeyed caramel malting with spruce-tipped ruby red grapefruit, orange rind and pineapple tartness. Three Floyds Space Station Middle Finger Pale Ale offered a dry-hopped floral citrus bouquet to honey-spiced pale malts. Three Floyds War Mullet, an enticing Imperial IPA, received an ultra-dry piney hop bittering and brisk juniper bite for its juicy citric tropicalia.

Dinnertime fare included Czech Republic’s Praga Dark Lager, a mocha-based medium body gathering burnt caramel, creme brulee, toffee, molasses cookie and honeyed pumpernickel illusions, as well as adjunct pale ale, Dogfish Head Rosabi, a mild wasabi-spiced elixir with red rice graining softening its hesitant horseradish heat. (Full reviews are in Beer Index).

bavarian-lodge.com

TWO BROTHERS BREWING CO.

United States Brewpubs,

Two Brothers Brewing Company - Absolute Beer

WARRENVILLE, ILLINOIS

Situated at Warrenville’s industrial park just north of Interstate 88, TWO BROTHERS BREWING was founded by brothers Jim and Jason Ebel during 1996. Previously, the duo sold beer and wine equipment in nearby Naperville and traveled Europe to discover the possibilities of brewing craft beer in the burgeoning US market. By time of this July ’14 sojourn, Two Brothers had already begun bottling its excellent fare for national distribution starting circa 2000.

In a freestanding off-white warehouse, this organic restaurant-brewpub draws serious beer geeks and local families alike. And the front door blackboard firmly insists ‘Uncle Sam Wants You To Drink Local.’ Besides its own savory fare, guest bottled selections from Belgium, Germany, England and United States are also worth checking out.

Serving well-prepped salads, sandwiches and pizza alongside 12-plus tapped selections, its super-clean maroon-walled interior features an L-shaped bar with gold hanging lamps, right side booths, windowed chairs, high ceilings and black exposed pipes. Glass-encased brewtanks behind the serving station hold the soon-to-be bottled and tapped offerings.

Though I’d already quaffed every beer on Two Brothers regular tap menu in bottles (check out Beer Index), there were two previously untried one-off libations available on tap during my mid-afternoon summertime perusal. Both showed off the wide spectrum of styles these experienced zymurgists create.

Wonderful Belgian-American hybrid, Cabinet of Curiousities White IPA, brought brisk orange-peeled coriander spicing to floral citra-hopped bittering, tossing white-peppered lemon zest, grapefruit, mango, tangerine, navel orange and pineapple illusions at its light doughy malting.

Just as fabulous, Irritated Koala Black IPA loaded smoked black tea into its mocha-fruited midst. Much like a beechwood-smoked German rauchbier, this unique hybrid maintained a barbecued campfire char that saturated sweet chocolate-cocoa malts, subtle grapefruit fondue illusions and peaty umami soy saucing.

www.twobrothersbrewing.com

 

IECHYD DA BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs

ELKHART, INDIANA

Opened in 2011 by hometown married couple, Chip and Summer Lewis, Elkhart-based IECHYD DA BREWING COMPANY (its name is Welch for Cheers!) has become a popular Main Street bistro in this small northern Indiana metropolis. Visited July ’14, the caliginous freestanding pub was packed on a Friday evening. Settling in at the long right side granite bar (with hanging tiki lamps), I ordered up some hummus from the respectable light menu (pizza/ sandwiches/ snacks) and prepare to consume all eight currently available house brews.

Iechyd Da’s dark gray and maroon interior and scenic Welch decor match the dusky twilight setting of its external design. Shelved ceramic mugs, two TV’s and a back-walled blackboard beer list inundate the bar while an open kitchen, one community table, several tables, exposed pipes and black ceiling fill out the midsize room. A side patio is also available for dining and the brew tanks are stationed in the rear.

First up, light-bodied session ale, Local Blonde, offered buttery corn malts and light rice niceties to softly perfume-hopped grapefruit-juiced navel orange tartness. Sour lactic acidity imbibed Tata Rosa Razz Berliner Weisse, a tart raspberry-laden summertime treat with lemon-dropped cranberry, green apple, mandarin orange and white grape souring over a soft salty-bottomed white wheat base.

Just as smooth, Cantankerous Irish Red brought toasted caramel spicing to tropical orange, pineapple, mango and peach fruiting as well as tobacco-leafed crisping and wispy nuttiness. Approachable Two Mile Pale Ale let IPA-like lemon-seeded grapefruit and orange fruiting and oily pine-hopped perfuming deepen its juniper bittering above moderate pale malting. A bit bitterer, floral-perfumed hops engaged Revolution American IPA, a wood-dried medium body gathering orange-peeled grapefruit, pineapple and pear illusions.

Each fine dark ale had a similar mocha profile. 13 American Black Ale layered sweet dark-roasted malts above hop-charred dark fruiting while Fearless King Rye Smoked Porter dealt smoked chocolate malts to dry-spiced rye breading, cocoa powdered chalking, cookie dough yeast and black cherry tartness.

For dessert, dry English-styled Cannonball Rye Stout plied sweet milk chocolate creaming to its toasted rye-pumpernickel base.

www.iechyddabrewingcompany.com

(NO LABEL) MINT IPA

Beers A-Z

Uniquely herbaceous West Coast-styled India Pale Ale brings pronounced mint freshness to stylistic piney-hopped fruit juicing. Sharp resinous hop bittering heightens embittered yellow grapefruit-peeled navel orange briskness as well as ancillary tangerine-peach-pear-apple sentiments. But it’s the entertaining spearmint-leafed wintergreen and peppermint herbage that truly takes this to a different level. Wispy anise, pine nut and lemon tea illusions add to the pleasant peculiarities.

(NO LABEL) PALE HORSE ALE

Beers A-Z

Affable rust-hazed American pale ale with supposedly “significant amount” of caramel-toasted pale malts and dry Cascade hops could be mistaken for mild IPA thanks to brisk floral-perfumed citric nature and oily pine bittering. Bright grapefruit-peeled orange rind, lemon zest, pineapple and peach tang reaches ultra-dry finish.

KUKA GINGER MANGO IPA

Beers A-Z

Crisply clean 2014 summertime moderation brings mild mango tartness and light ginger herbage to indifferent India Pale Ale fruiting. Dried orange desiccation picks up astringency, deadening tropical kiwi-guava-passionfruit snip. Grassy hop bittering remains subtle. In the can ’17, fresh ginger-rooted mango adjunct struggles for room as sharp lemony orange-peeled grapefruit rind bittering, sweet ‘n sour pineapple tartness and grassy hop astringency gain footing.