NINKASI / DEVIL’S BACKBONE THE DEVIL WENT DOWN TO OREGON IMPERIAL DARK RYE ALE

On tap at Ambulance, worthy Oregon-Virginia collaboration offers buttery rye-toasted honey nut sweetness, spiced prune-raisin richness and dry cereal graining to sharp charred hop thrust and subtle grapefruit dirge. Mild chocolate roast inundates caraway-seeded chestnut, almond and praline subsidy. In the 22-ounce bottle, heady auburn-browned roggenbier brings spicier prune-raisin affluence to Blackstrap molasses-sapped pumpernickel rye thrust.

STONE SAISON

“Modern take on Belgian classic” is apropos motto of resolute farmhouse ale. Though not as audacious as indicated, its winningly tweaked formula ulitizes lemon zest, grains of paradise, lemon thyme and lavender adjuncts to counteract embittered black tea resonance. Dry white-peppered herbal stronghold picks up rustic barnyard acridity and floral respite to engage summery sweet ‘n sour citric slumber.