SIERRA NEVADA KELLERWEIS HEFEWEIZEN

Cordial moderate-bodied golden-hazed German-styled wheat ale features usual suspects. Ripe banana seeps into clove-spiced grassy-hopped lemon-dried midst of fizzy soft-watered fodder. Casual banana bread finish enlivened by wheat biscuit spine. On tap, dryer Berliner wiess qualities emerge, such as saltier lemon-seeded souring and raw-honeyed wheat breading. Plus, its body is a hazier yellowed beige.

NEW ENGLAND BREWING COMPANY

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WOODBRIDGE, CONNECTICUT

One of Connecticut’s first craft breweries (1989), NEW ENGLAND BREWING COMPANY moved across the street to its much bigger Woodbridge digs in 2013. Just off the Merritt Parkway, the silver silo-bound NEBC needed the larger white aluminum facility for its multiple fermenters, increased beer production and experimental research department.

The red brick interior features an overhead-doored pub with copper-top bar, pipe railing and reclaimed wood siding serving the epoxy-floored barrel and table seating from three separate draught stations. A crowded equipment-laden gray-walled brewroom to the left supplies the rangy elixirs.

My wife and I grab seats outside at the black metal-furnished, canopy-topped front patio to down nine previously untried suds, August ’21.

Stegosaurus - New England Brewing Co. - Untappd

Caramel-spiced dried fruiting, earthen mineral grains and leafy hop moisture appeased Large Farva, a dewy soft-toned Vienna lager.

Lemon-doused Pilot Belgian White Ale made a stylistic turnabout with its expectant coriander-spiced mandarin orange tartness overrun by Huell Melon-hopped white grape esters, hefe-like banana/clove sweetness, mild grapefruit zesting and salted herbal whims.

Lactobacillus-cultured Berliner Weisse, Strawberry Rhubarb Trash, forged ahead with its tart lemon-soured strawberry piquancy greeting sharp cranberry-licked rhubarb pucker and chalked lime parch.

Salted raspberry tartness led Trash Berry, a flattish Berliner Weisse with lightly lemon-soured cranberry and pomegranate pucker.

Dry orange desiccated lemon rot and salty white-peppered herbage melded into raw-grained barnyard acridity for Scrumtrulescent Saison, a slightly phenolic farmhouse digression.

Like a dewily dry English IPA crossed with tropical New Zealand hops, Dose plied tart guava-passionfruit-papaya souring to mild floral herbage and wispy pine tones.

Offshoot Prickly Pear Dose placed easygoing prickly pear tartness alongside peachy grapefruit tanginess as well as subtle passionfruit-melon-pineapple snips.

Another India Pale Ale, bright and fuzzy Mosaic-Citra-Azacca-hopped Stegosuarus flashed spicy orange-peeled grapefruit, pineapple and peach tanginess as well as mild passionfruit, grapefruit and melon illusions above rich pale malt sugaring.

Cold-conditioned Italian espresso roast introduced molasses oats-smoked oatmeal stout, Revelations, picking up mild nut-charred cocoa beaning.       

ORIGINAL MAY 2010 ARTICLE

Not necessarily a brewpub originally, though there was always a few taps running in the reception area, NEW ENGLAND BREWING COMPANY has grown into one of the East Coast’s best microbrewers since its humble 1989 inception. On top of that, their increasingly diversified libations are canned for mass distribution. At the forefront of modern beer and ale canning, they became the first East Coast microbrew to deviate away from bottling (second in America after Colorado’s Oskar Blues).

Situated in a red brick building on a back road industrial center behind a mall five miles south of New Haven, I visited this excellent small brewery, May 2010. A nice beer can-bottle collection lines the walls around the reception and garage area and a statue of Elvis Presley oversees the aluminum brew tanks in the rear. Owner Rob Leonard, its initial brewer,  bought and relocated the Norwalk-based brewery to Woodbridge in 2001.

New England Brewing’s most impressive brews have become specialty strong ales such as New England Wet Willy Scotch Ale and New England Ghandi-Bot Double IPA, plus limited bottled selection includes superfine Imperial Stout Trooper (all reviewed in Beer Index).

BEST CONNECTICUT MICROBREW STORE-  One of the best places to find a great selection of microbrewed craft beers is at Gordon’s Yellow Front Wine, just off Route 95 in New London. Featuring many of the finest national and international beers and all the finest local product by New England Brewing, Olde Burnside, Thomas Hooker, City Steam, and Cottrell’s, Gordon’s serves Connecticut’s beer elite better than any other state store I’ve come across since ’97.

www.newenglandbrewing.com

CARSON’S BREWHOUSE

NEWINGTON, CONNECTICUT

Five miles south of Hartford lies residential township, Newington, where CARSON’S BREWHOUSE began business in ’09, but closed down by 2011.

A former HOPS brewpub, this freestanding brown-tanned restaurant-brewery (with flat-slated base) served simple blue-collar fodder for nearby mall rats and mid-scale locals, May ‘10. Its open mid-sized interior featured a center rectangular bar with twenty seats and two small TV’s surrounded by sided dining space. Windowed kitchen served Americana steak-seafood-burger menu including recommended French onion soup with Aegean Salad (feta cheese, tomatoes, onions, oregano, and red onions).

Rear glass-encased brew tanks served mainstream fare such as popcorn-fizzed maize-dried raw-honeyed Carson’s Light, astringent citric-vegetal corn-oiled phenol-hopped Golden Lager, and best-selling mocha-fruited Carson’s Amber Red.

Better were coffee-dried chocolate-seeded resin-hopped peanut-shelled walnut-embittered Brewhouse Porter and seasonally available honey-buttered lemon-dropped wheat-paled Honey Bock.

www.carsonsbrewhouse.com

JOHN HARVARD’S BREWHOUSE – MANCHESTER

MANCHESTER, CONNECTICUT

Opened 1997, Manchester’s JOHN HARVARD’S BREWHOUSE may’ve been the best franchise brewpub in the Northeast chain. But it closed in the summer of 2011 and was replaced by Tullycross Tavern & Microbrewery in November. 

Visited May ’10, this freestanding mustard-hued maroon-trimmed pub was located across Manchester’s Plaza at Buckland Hills. Typical pub fare such as appetizers-pizza-burgers and expanded Americana dinner menu went fine with brewer Frank Fermino’s well-crafted stylistic libations emanating from rear glass-encased brew tanks. Rectangular center bar with opposing TV’s served wood-furnished side dining booths, pews, and roundtables.

I enjoyed ‘Pick-A-Pair’ clam chowder and Cuban half sandwich with lighter fare such as snappy Saaz-hopped corn-dried vegetal-soured Harvard Light, funky earthen-grained grape-soured bourbon-burgundy-whirred Black Lager, and pallid spice-hopped red-fruited tea-like John Harvard Pale Ale.

Better were hand-pumped cask-conditioned water-softened fungi-wafted coffee-creamed butter-nutty English Brown Ale, resinous bark-dried pine-needled lemon-seeded peach-toned pekoe tea-like C n C IPA, and chocolate-soured walnut-charred ESB.

Creamy cascade-headed caramel-malted yellow-fruited green-hopped English Pub Ale stayed milder than ESB.

Dark ale fans will enjoy hop-charred grain-roasted peat-malted Shovel-Head Porter, with its cedar-burnt hazelnut, walnut, and Baker’s chocolate illusions adjoining port-burgundy wining.

www.johnharvards.com

HOP DEVIL GRILLE TAKE OVER MANHATTAN’S ST. MARK’S PLACE

Open since 2008, HOP DEVIL GRILLE, and its smaller, demure Belgian Room next door, have fared well in the East Village. Located towards the end of S. Mark’s Place next to a pizza parlor cornering Avenue A, this hellishly-dubbed aluminum-fronted mustard-browned hole in the wall serves great food and better beer. Truly, the fabulous draft selection competes favorably with ‘older uptown sister’ bar and grill, DAVID COPPERFIELD’S.

Just a few steps from Alphabet City’s Tompkins Square Park, Hop Devil’s semi-Industrial sportsbar appeal invites a mostly young crowd. Stainless steel front door leads to 12-seated left bar with shelved high-caliber liquor and select beer bottles above 25 tap handles. Several TV’s and metal brewery banners line the rustic green-marbled wallpapered interior and a devilish figure giving the finger peers out from the bar’s blackboard.

On my first visit, March ’10, I discovered Mikkeller Whiskey-Barreled Breakfast Stout, Flying Dog Garde Dog, and Green’Flash Palate Wrecker on tap (reviewed in Beers A-Z section). Several fine Belgian brews could be found at adjacent Belgian Room.

On Wednesday, April 14th, a mix of beer connoisseurs, cute college gals, and long-time locals gathered for Kuhnhenn Night to taste several worthy selections from awesome Michigan pub, Kuhnhenn Brewing. I caught an early evening buzz while chowing delicious South O’ Da Border grilled chicken fajita. Had top-line Cask-Conditioned Loonie Kuhnie, White Devil, Double Rice IPA, Extraneous Sixtel, and Mayhem Belgian Dark, plus cloying Play in The Hay Blueberry Lambic (reviewed at Beers A-Z section).

NEON INDIAN EXPLORE ‘PSYCHIC CHASMS’

Just outside the bohemian State Capitol of Austin lies prospering urban municipality, Denton, Texas, where an exciting contemporary music scene now flourishes thanks to visionary beacons such as Alan Palomo. Ready to breakout and now residing in musical hotbed, Brooklyn, New York, the industrious composing architect contemporaneously helms zestful solo project, Vega, and more renowned electronic rock quartet, Neon Indian.

As a college freshman, Palomo abandoned distortion-pedal Casio rap when he discovered DFA Records’ dance-punk catalogue and disco-rock French duo, Justice, forming Ghosthustler to concoct several spontaneous tracks highlighted by syncopated oscillating gyration, “Parking Lot Nights.” This premature acclaim created what Palomo termed a ‘hostile current’ amongst the band to make massive production strides in order to keep up with their electronic arts peers a la headliners MGMT or Chromeo.

But that was only the humble beginning. Graduating from electronic boot camp disciple to skillful compositional designer (and disenchanted by Ghosthustler’s counterproductive studio-infatuated mindframe), Palomo began contemporary disco venture, Vega. Though this outfit hasn’t released its debut long-player yet, Vega’s truest rivals may become synth-pop post-punks Cut Copy and Hercules & Love Affair.

Concurrently, Palomo’s iridescent ‘chillwave’ archetypes, Neon Indian, have gained serious underground plaudits. Reluctantly identified with the prevailing glo-fi scene, their spectacular sugarcoated sun-baked electro-pop synthesist bursts wide open on surrealistic spellbinder, Psychic Chasms. Unafraid to kaleidoscopically transmute ‘70s electro-pop into charmingly melodic stimulants, Palomo’s hyper-kinetic foursome (rounded out by guitarist Ronnie Gierhart, drummer Jason Faries, and keyboardist Leanne Macomber) fashioned the hallucinogenic soundtrack to ‘09s “Deadbeat Summer.”

Laser beam spurts, squiggly aquatic squirts, bleating Casio-toned blurts, and intergalactic quirks bounce around in a mesmerizing whir on Psychic Chasms. Incandescent processed voices drift, echo, waver, and swerve through each percolating whirligig and the hazy convoluted narrative ultimately contextualizes its entirety. Peculiarly, the Doobie Brothers’ cheery “What A Fool Believes” keyboard riff consumes both ready-made intoxicant “Laughing Gas” and tunefully hook-filled regurgitation, “Terminally Chill” (where Paul Mc Cartney’s “Wonderful Christmastime” Moog droplets splash the Isley Brothers’ “Who’s That Lady” phase-shifting guitar in a panoramic carnival). Moving forward, floor-shaking electro-dance coax, “Local Joke,” duplicitously swipes New Order’s ‘80s-styled Industrial music maneuvers to grandiose heights.

Hoping his impending body of work will be used to complement the visual realm like movie director John Carpenter’s concisely eerie score for Escape From New York, Palomo reckons he still has ‘many tricks up my sleeve.’

What’s the genesis of Neon Indian’s luminescent moniker?

ALAN PALOMO: In high school, my friend Alicia used it as a random counteractive phrase for Ghosthustler. I started writing music, specifically “Should Have Taken Acid With You,” as an ode to her. The lyrical subject matter references a San Antonio high school periods’ mock band.

Why didn’t you take acid with her?
 
 
 
 

 

 

Couldn’t find the time. I was mixing someone’s record in Dallas. We were supposed to meet in San Antonio where our families were on a random holiday getaway that never reached fruition.

Your father, Jorge, had some Mexican pop acclaim. Who were some early influences?
 
 
 
 

 

 

I was a huge fan of Todd Rundgren’s production work as opposed to just songwriting. He’s the perfect summation of these two ideals. He writes simple, beautiful pop as well as intensely innovative sonic soundscapes that come from bizarre modular synth patterns. He exercises both sides of his creative sensibilities seamlessly. He’ll put a pop record like “Hello It’s Me” near a 30-minute instrumental. It’s a weird conglomeration of sounds and ideas. There’s a lot of old wave early ‘80s stuff I’m into. The Mute catalogue – DAF, Fad Gadget. That’s the first genre I completely inhaled during high school. I was into great synth-pop records from that time. Yellow Magic Orchestra are a Japanese Kraftwerk.

Those artists were around before you were born.
 
 
 
 

 

 

Yeah. I’ve always had a weird compulsive urge to consume as much music as possible trying to figure out a chronology behind the music I was enjoying. That sound and time stops in the ‘80s with that unabashed whimsical pop that’s dead now, or approached sarcastically. That’s the last time there was any whimsical romance found in cheesy John Hughes movies – not feeling ashamed of the sentimentality associated with it. Even disco was a very optimistic genre riffing around the notion of a romanticized futuristic wonderland. I’m influenced by the idea of creating narratives within the music. It’s not like writing a song very self-consciously.

You borrow many eclectic musical sources for Psychic Chasms.
 
 
 
 

 

 

I like how abrasive the record was in terms of its narrative. Being able to sit down for an entire month and really set goals – no more than two days on any given song. Even with Vega, I’d run along a really long stride of production tedium’s as opposed to writing a song. I’d work on compressing and EQing drum sounds. An entire day of turning knobs and looking at things on a timeline when no music was coming out was laborious. Neon Indian negated those things and was a reaction against that. I wasn’t worried about how clean and pristine everything sounded, but instead emphasized being raw and visceral. Song ideas, one after the next without stopping, creating fluidity between influences, it ended up being a showcase of a lot of different sensibilities I have in terms of specific sounds and obsessions with rock bands that have one big synth track. Mc Cartney II had that fantastic “Temporary Secretary.” Paul Mc Cartney’s a great example of a late ‘70s artist who didn’t mess with synths but was shown a Moog in the studio and decided to fire it up and get strangely effervescent, idiosyncratic sounds like the lead synth in Doobie Brothers’ “What A Fool Believes.” It’s the goofiest thing, but fantastic for Psychic Chasms. Also, the original “Strawberry Letter 23” by Shuggie Otis was something else. The Brothers Johnson version had that flanger in the middle, but this was out of synch and came from a rougher lower fidelity studio angle – real creepy.

“Ephemeral Artery” adapted a raunchy ‘70s Parliament-Funkadelic groove.
 
 
 
 

 

 

There are two songs on the record that my guitarist in the live band, Ronnie, had ideas I wanted him to execute. I use simple frets, but Ronnie has a funky sensibility. We threw around ideas and that was the one track on the LP that was the odd man out. It had heavier low end and churning bass behind that. It had almost mockingly funky riffs that made me question the track, but that actually became our favorite song to play live ‘cause it’s executed in a very unapologetic way and becomes almost an inside joke amongst the band.

Are the segued interludes on Psychic Chasms meant to connect a semi-thematic whole?
 
 
 
 

 

 

Absolutely. The entire record has a convoluted narrative not necessarily dictated by lyrics. The ideas of creating affects that seem to exist outside the song give it context. Band like Aerial Pink and Boards Of Canada create a story around songs without lyrics directly dictating the mood. Those segues connect the more emotional, slower tracks like “Acid” and “6669.” They guide the story along. I wanted a cohesive whole instead of a collection of songs. I’ve made cassettes for girls having 90-second songs to guide ‘em into the next phase. Psychic Chasms hopefully is that mix tape. It has an introspective hyper-personal sensation complemented by the production. Obviously, this is all post-facto rationalizations. When I was writing the record, it was all very intuitive and meant to have no expectations.

Is “6669” about the kick ass musical period between ’66 to ’69?
 
 
 
 

 

 

That was an odd inside joke about the most brutal sexual positions. Some of the albums language – having a song called “Terminally Chill” – creates an aesthetic set around a group of people and bring you into the world of deadbeat characters and weird colloquialisms that throw you into a certain mindset that gets you jiving in that wavelength. Random wording is part of the whole narrative of the last four years of my life.

“Sleep Paralysist,” a post-LP track done with Chris Taylor from Grizzly Bear, shows more restraint, greater emotionality, and a more approachable sound.
 
 
 
 

 

 

Totally. What’s funny is I was never commissioned to do a single before. It ‘s a very interesting experience to sit down in the studio to write this very particular kind of music. There’s always been this process of continual writing, then take things from it later. For this, I stressed myself out to write something, then realized I had this great template to try a collaborating for the first time. Much of the appeal of that song comes from straying away from the idea of making a single that would hint where Neon Indian was going. It’s a strange one-off track. Expectation is a dangerous thing, but if I keep it fresh and interesting for myself, then I wanna hear that.

-John Fortunato
 
 
 
 

 

 

KLEIN DUIMPJE KERSTBIER CHRISTMAS ALE

Nearly spectacular Belgian-candied winter seasonal retains sharp-spiced dry-fruited cocoa-malted blitzkrieg to heavenly rich red-wined finish. Brown-sugared cinnamon-allspice-nutmeg-gingerbread spicing drifts into chewy nougat center alongside equally affluent prune-soured raisin-pureed plum-dried fervor. Pecan, macadamia, and almond illusions squeak through grape-purpled burgundy, bourbon, and sherry subsidy. Whiskeyed cherry nuance reinforces boozy depth.

TERRAPIN HOPSECUTIONER INDIA PALE ALE

Dynamic amber-hazed hop-head delight never lets floral-pined bite put a crimp on honey-fruited sweetness. Brisk pine-needled orange-peeled bitterness seeps through tangy lemon-sugared apple-ripened pineapple, apricot, and tangerine tropicalia to soft nutty underbelly. Chocolate-covered cherry illusion seeps into midst. Brisk mineral-watered mountain-dewed freshness and resinous hop-oiled prickle prompt esteemed West Coast IPA styling.

 

SAMUEL SMITH YORKSHIRE STINGO

Engrossing burnished copper English strong ale, aged in oak casks and matured for over a year, retains creamy Samuel Smith-defined molasses malt trait above soothing Newcastle Brown Ale-like almond buttering. Terrific whiskey-soaked Maraschino cherry frontage gains chewy vanilla-butterscotch sweetness alongside honeyed rye-pumpernickel caking to complement midrange apricot, tangerine and red grape tang. Tertiary chestnut, macadamia, and pecan illusions emboss dry-fruited rum raisin, stewed prune and bourbon nuances at earthen fungi bottom.

VICTORY YAKIMA TWILIGHT ALE

Well-attenuated strong ale (recalibrated as Yakima Glory by 2011) celebrates West Coast IPA ‘hopping’ with luscious caramel-malted full-fruited tang. Loud wood-dried piney-hopped grapefruit rind bittering nearly overwhelms ripe peach-apple-berry conflux and vinous white grape esters. Brown leafs, green grass, and earthen minerals fill out citric-parched backdrop.

Victory Yakima Twilight Ale debuts late summer | BeerPulse

MIKKELLER ALL OTHERS PALE ALE

Rich rocky-headed copper-hazed full-bodied pale ale closer to complex IPA styling. Resinous wood-chipped pine-needled bittering spreads across spice-hopped citric tang. Pine-sapped maple and spruce lacquer tart grapefruit peel souring and floral jasmine-rosebud bouquet to flaked oats bottom. Orange zest, tangerine, apple and grape illusions surface alongside tropical melon, nectarine, pineapple, and mango fruiting. A true hophead’s delight.