Boggling diacetyl buttering, phenolic hop fizz and gnarly vegetal astringency plague musty sour-malted straw-hued moderate body. After modest barley-rice sweetness counters mild lemon bittering and grassy-hopped repose, coarsened corn-oiled finish impedes progress. Withered white bread spine collapses and wavered herbal nuances barely register.
BREWDOG BASHAH BLACK BELGIAN-STYLE DOUBLE I.P.A.
Bold ‘ultra rare’ ’09 collaboration between California’s Stone Brewery and UK’s Brewdog could peculiarly pass for a creamy black chocolate-y oyster stout. Magnificent full-bodied cola-hued IPA brings bitter pine-sapped resin-hopped dry-fruited expectancy to chocolate-roasted coffee-soured burnt sugar malting. Citric cherry-plum illusions drape peat-smoked molasses, alleviating ashy charcoal acridity invading pine-sapped anise-stained mocha finish. In a class by itself.
EEL RIVER ACAI WHEAT (CERTIFIED ORGANIC)
On tap, soapy washed-out yellow-cleared fruit ale lacks luster. Brazilian acai berries, a dietary antioxidant, never bolsters pallid softie. Fizzy dry-hopped raspberry, blueberry, cranberry, and cherry souring mires subsidiary lemon-limed green apple, Granny Smith apple, and white peach tartness. Dull white-breaded spine of arid light body only makes things worse.
KUHNHENN LOONIE KUHNIE PALE ALE (CASK VERISON)
Soft sandalwood undertone seeps into red-orange-fruited cask version of brewer’s locally popular pale body. Blanched orange peel and grapefruit rind bittering dissolves into tart apple-tangerine-peach sedation above herbal nuance. Tertiary mango, pineapple, and passion fruit illusions provide delicate backup.
KUHNHENN WHITE DEVIL
On tap, well-rounded golden-clouded Belgian-styled white ale rallies behind luscious candi-sugared banana-clove frontage and heady 9.5% alcohol whir. Creamy vanilla-butterscotch midst further sweetens ripe fruited sassafras as tangy lemon-aided apple, peach and orange illusions counter white-peppered hop spicing.
KUHNHENN DOUBLE RICE I.P.A.
On tap, lustrous golden amber full body drapes floral-spiced hops into massive fruity indulgence. Tangy peach-cherry-tangerine frontage and subsidiary banana-bruised pineapple-mango-grapefruit tropicalia regale subtle cereal-grained toasting. Resinous pine seeps into alcohol-burnt fructose finish. But advertised rice influence is negligible.
KUHNHENN PLAY IN THE HAY BLUEBERRY LAMBIC
ROGUE CHATOE DIRTOIR BLACK LAGER
Smooth jet black schwarzbier with egg-shelled cherry wood head recalls finer Baltic porters. Brown-sugared cocoa-dried Baker’s chocolate frontage receives subtle peat-smoked peanut-shelled walnut, cola nut, and Brazil nut bittering to offset sweet toffee, caramel, and cookie dough sweetness. Oily coffee souring, mild espresso dirge, and peat-smoked mineral-grained soy nuance add depth to a creamier, more assertive black lager than usual ill-defined rivals.
KUHNHENN EXTRANEOUS SIXTEL 17.5%
Heady bourbon piquancy positively affects affluent Cassis-styled blackberry-curdled oak-casked barleywine. Dank cellar waft picks up port, burgundy, and Merlot illusions that settle at frantic cherry-soured prune-raisin-fig peak. Red wine aficionados may enjoy its sharply tannic red, purple, and black grape tartness. On tap 2011, months of aging changed the profile, complexion, and complexity of this wonderfully vintaged ‘big beer.’ Tasting like a Mai Tai with its coconut-pineapple conflux, the newfound caramelized whiskey malting and candied apple sash truly sweetened the deal.
LAGUNITAS WILCO TANGO FOXTROT ALE
Silken cola-hued ‘robust jobless recovery’ strong ale lacks expectant full-bodied assertion, but not persuasive character. Ashen piney-hopped nuttiness juxtaposes soft-watered cinnamon-spiced floral-fruited opening. Tangy grapefruit, pineapple, cherry and apricot fruitage revs up juicy bubblegum midst. Earthen red and purple grape esters bring mild bourbon-burgundy-port illusions to the surface by soft evergreen finish of limited ’10 release. On tap at Plank Pizza (2016), dark-roasted mocha nuttiness picked up more pronounced earthen hop-charred bittering and less fruit-spiced tangent.
(TWO BROTHERS) MONARCH WHITE BEER
Neatly spiced hazy golden Belgian-styled witbier maintains mild candi-sugared orange-peeled coriander theme above muted banana-chipped clove sweetness and tart lemon zest souring. Refreshing menthol-eucalyptus herbage and grassy heather hops promote subsidiary ginger ale sensation of efficient light-bodied rep.
TUNNG GO BEYOND NU-FOLK SEAS ‘AND THEN WE SAW LAND’
Attaching basic organic instrumentation to machine-made computer samples and detached rhythms may sound technologically befuddling, but London-based band, Tunng, have taken their earthy folk rooted inclinations on a space-age journey beyond the sea. Bending quirky stream-of-consciousness lyrics and a goodly amount of stately low key charm into freshly coined ‘folktronica,’ they’ve acquired a deeper emotionalism over time.
Getting together during 2003, founding singer-songwriters Mike Lindsay and Sam Genders began experimenting with electronic folk elements from the start. Though Genders left the band prior to triumphant 2010 breakout, And Then We Saw Land, the unique stylistic blend the twosome configured for developmental ’05 debut, Mother’s Daughter And Other Songs, continued to succinctly evolve as Tunng gained momentum.
‘07s Comments Of The Inner Chorus layered poignant neo-Classical string arrangements atop rural folk abstractions and foggy Elliott Smith-affected notions such as the wonderful typewriter-clicked ballad, “Jenny Again.” Lindsay’s sonorously hushed baritone hangs in the air above the dirge-y incantations. Much like Matmos’ musique concrete glitch-pop masterstroke, A Chance To Cut Is A Chance To Cure, Tunng also successfully incorporated a brittle admixture of arcane rhythmic sound affects that snap, crackle, and pop inside your eardrum.
Better still, ‘08s sterling Good Arrows brought crisper acoustical ambience and more pristine percussive clatter to the forefront. “Arms” and “Hands” sling tinselly confectionery and wiry electronic samples across crystalline 6-string enticement. Alluring piano-based ‘oom-pah’ lamentation, “Bullets,” elegant tape-looped chime, “Bricks,” and mystical proggish stomp, “Take,” attain a transcending elliptical stillness only the finest folk provocateurs – going back to Dylan – could efficiently and effectively deliver.
Reaching extreme majestic heights, And Then We Saw Land conveys a surging nautical theme to an excellent assemblage of wholly traditional folk amblers. As if that wasn’t enough, Tunng herein merge fascinating indigenous African rhythms into the incipient baroque-bound computer bleats, bleeps, and bloops that consume their anxious elegies. Bongos, shakers, traps, and kalimba deluge an accessibly versatile array of well-defined tunes. Tribal Burundi beats underscore tingly horn-driven drum-clustered hex, “It Breaks,” and climactic epiphany “Don’t Look Down Or Back.” As an explosive sidestep, Tunng scamper through hard-rocking thrasher, “Sashimi,” with the riled intensity of The Who – a magical ceremonial highlight and their most thrashing guitar shredder since Good Arrows’ Megadeth-inspired prog-rocker, “Soup.”
But the big news is Becky Jacobs, who has stepped up her involvement to fill in the gap left by Gender’s departure. Her breezily uplifting harmonies add authentic Gaelic flavoring to Gregorian-chanted hummer, “These Winds,” and posh echo-drenched seduction to spindly acoustic piano twinkle, “The Roadside.” She shares nimble dulcet lead vocals with Lindsay on gentle banjo-laden homecoming, “Hustle.” Furthermore, current band mates Martin Smith, Phil Winter, and Ashley Bates affix synths, samples, Spanish guitar, melodica, and harp to the latest cavalcade of sounds. Newest member, drummer Simon Glenister, beefs up the backend.
Put aside any doubts, Tunng’s truly raised the bar with their fourth long-play excursion.
The album title, And Then We Saw Land, seems to indicate musical discovery and its inherent fulfillment.
MIKE LINDSAY: It’s a compilation of a few things. There’s quite an adventurous feel to the record – its romantic journeys and nautical themes now and again – to make it feel like an excursion. It was a challenging record and the title’s a bit of a metaphor for feeling good about our situation.
-John Fortunato
