VERMONT PUB AND BREWERY
BURLINGTON, VERMONT
Traveling West on Route 89 during snowy February ’04 New England excursion, stayed two nights in renowned bohemian haunt, Burlington. First stop, VERMONT PUB AND BREWERY, a large red brick edifice with redeeming values I appreciated more the second time around five years hence.
As the second oldest brewpub on the East Coast (opened 1988), Vermont Pub spreads a large dining space behind windowed porch bar area. Spacious downtown eatery served good American cuisine. Ate hearty Angus Brewburger while tapping into now-deceased seasoned brewer Greg Noonan’s smooth libations.
Tried dry wheat-husked Ethan Allen Lager, sour malt-serenaded Burly Irish Ale, nut-soft Dogbite Bitter ESB, bitterly spice-hopped Bombay Grab IPA, hickory-smoked coffee-roasted Vermont Smoked Porter, silken cappuccino-sweet coffee-dried maple-sapped wood-smoked cola-nutty Handsome Mick’s Irish Stout and mocha serenity Black Sea Imperial Stout.
In January ’09, discovered several lighter-bodied experimental brews such as chipotle-jalapenos-smoked sandalwood-burnt sage-oiled black-peppered Ambergris No. 1 Weiss and peculiar herbaceous honey-suckled Absinthe (gathering peppermint, absinthium, lemon balm, chamomile, licorice, and ginger illusions). Soft oak-aged raspberry-parched cranberry-soured watermelon-tinged Forbidden Fruit Framboise topped diacetyl chocolate malt-lagered fig-date-soured washout Brewmasters Cup Munich Dunkel, weirdly raw-grained lemon-tart bark-dried green tea-embittered Canadian-styled Cream Ale and lemony green apple-soured banana-blanched limestone-grouted Beetlejuice (Bavarian Weizen).
www.vermontbrewery.com
Within walking distance, Pearl Street Beverage had excellent bottled selection where I purchased Trout River, Rock Art, and Berkshire brews.
The Pub at Ken’s Pizza had local fave, Switchback Ale, flaunting spritzy hop spice, sweet malt bed, dry orange rind midst, and strawberry-peach trace. Switchback has since gained Northeast notoriety with many out of state pubs. NORWICH INN
NORWICH, VERMONT
Heading North on Route 91, bought Harpoon’s Munich Dark Lager and Abbey Style Ale at Windsor warehouse (formerly Catamount Brewery), then 10 miles hence purchased Jasper Murdock’s Old Slipperyskin IPA and Whistling Pig Red Ale (reviewed in Beer Index) at colonial-styled relic, NORWICH INN, December ‘05.
A tiny English-styled brewpub-ensconced restaurant since ’93, the short dining room bar had samplers of hazelnut-chocolate-spiced maple-malted anodyne, Jasper Murdock’s Private Stock, and chocolate-roasted coffee-embittered fruit-soured Stackpole Porter during initial sojourn.
On November ’06 trip, sampled dark chocolate-malted, tea-embittered, black licorice-tinged, lactose-sugared Jasper Murdock’s Famous Sidekick Mild Ale and soft grapefruit rind-fronted, lemon-wedged, wood hop-embittered Jasper Murdock’s Last Picked Pale Ale.
January ’09, consumed honey-spiced cherry-berry-backed Jasper Murdock’s Oh Be Joyful English Brown Ale and mild fruit-spiced, barley-toasted crystal-malted Dr. Bowles Elixir (Amber Ale) at bar with brewmaster Patrick Dakin.
MAPLE LEAF BREWERY
WILMINGTON, VERMONT
Twenty miles west of Brattleboro through snow-capped mountains, found Wilmington’s terrific pint-size venue, MAPLE LEAF BREWERY, New Year’s Day ‘06. Though by summer ’08, brewery closed and only bar remained.
Located in the quaint Mount Snow valley near the corner of Main Street, brewer Darren Fehring’s pub had outgrown its constricting boundaries and a second floor bar was built post-haste. Small dining area to left fronts brew tanks while tucked-in low-ceilinged bar takes up the right.
Burgers and sandwiches went well with sticky yellow-fruited corn-buttery malt-liquored pungency Winter Wheat Ale, coffee-stained wood-burnt walnut-dried Lenny’s Legend Porter and ‘visiting ale’ Allagash Grand Cru (with its ripe tangerine-orange-melon tang and orange-cherry-bruised depth).
Best bets: alcoholic whisky-malted raisin-tart Mad Walter’s Wee Heavy Scotch Ale and rye-flaked hop-charred currant-embittered Rye Not Stout.
November ’06, quaffed creamy cereal-grained wheat-honeyed butternut-cornbread-dashed Bombshell Blonde and sharp-hopped red-fruited maple-sweet wheat-cracked Asylum American Pale Ale with Fehring.
By summer ’08, brewery closed but bar remained. MC NEILL’S BREWPUB
BRATTLEBORO,VERMONT
The Maple State takes tremendous pride in microbrew mastery! And one of its best brewpubs, MC NEILL'S, provides great beer to this rustic riverfront town.
On a snowy February ’04 trip, I first stayed at Brattleboro’s historic Latchis Inn, quaffing light-bodied malt-spiced chocolate-nutty Leaf Trapper Lager, caramel-hopped Altbier, mocha-accented IPA, cocoa-embittered Coffee Porter,and mildly chocolate-y cherry-teased wood-burnt Oatmeal Stout at now-defunct basement-level Latchis Grill.
In its stead, street level pub, Flat Street Brewpub, served Berkshire Brewery’s excellent bottled ales on tap by November ‘06. A quaint coffeehouse-styled pub with limited menu (reubens-nachos-wings), Flat Street offered two tap-only brews, dry-hopped coffee-roasted black chocolate-y dark-fruited Flat Street Stout and bittersweet maple-syrupy cherry-banana-bruised whiskey-malted Cask Conditioned Autumn Strong Ale. Brattleboro Food Co-op has great Vermont, Maine, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire bottled beer section thrice sojourned.
At nearby Elliott Street, Brattleboro’s highly recommended MC NEILL’S BREWPUB had superb assortment of microbrews such as soft-toned peppery hop-fizzed Brewhead Brown Ale, pine-needled grapefruit-spiced orange rind-embittered Slop Bucket Brown Ale, mocha-buttered red-fruited Scotch Ale, resiliently creamy dark chocolate-roasted coffee-blackened cherry-stoned Imperial Stout, and fruit-ripened brandy-warmed Barleywine. Limited menu included chili, stew, spinach pie, and hummus.
After watching King Kong at Latchis Theatre, revisited teensy cafeteria-styled dive Mc Neill’s with son, Johnny, New Year’s Day, ’06. Though lighter-bodied fare proved less interesting, soft-hopped pineapple-grapefruit-apple-tinged Big Nose Blonde, delicate perfume-hopped grapefruit-checked Duck’s Breath English Bitter, mild floral-peach Dead Horse IPA and barley-roasted nut-smoked pacifier Humperdinck Black Lager were decent choices.
On drearily rainy November ‘06 eve following screening of The Departed at Latchis, long-time Mc Neill’s bartender Christa Porter served up two recently tapped beers. Burnt orange-fronted bruised cherry-centered plum-fig-dried currant-nutmeg-spiced peat-malted Buck Snort Barleywine and dry grassy-hopped red-fruited floral-accented Cask Conditioned Dead Horse IPA sufficed.
Spent an hour, January ’09, sampling tart orange-soured whiskey-backed grape-sodden cask-conditioned Old Ringworm Ale and spicy apple-peach-tangerine-glazed grapefruit-peeled currant-embittered Warlord IPA with brewer, Ray.
Check alphabetical section for bottled reviews of Mc Neill’s Alle Tage Altbier, Champ Ale, Exterminator Doppelbock, Firehouse Amber, Oatmeal Stout, Pullman’s Porter, Ruby Red, Tartan Export, and Duck’s Breath.
www.myspace.com/mcneillsbrewery THUNDER CANYON BREWERY
TUCSON, ARIZONA
Culturally diverse Southwest valley metropolis offered three disparate brewpubs, January ‘05 (opened 1997 and closed 2024). Outside main district, mall-based THUNDER CANYON BREWERY’S velvety purple terra cotta stucco exterior cloaked centralized bar extending to patio, leftward glass encased brew tanks, and menu of wraps, sandwiches, brewhouse burgers, and recommended wood-fired pizza.
Casual fare such as fizzy wheat-husked dry-bodied lightweight Sandstone Cream Ale, malt-sinewy nectar-honeyed mainstreamer Deep Canyon Amber and polite citrus-barren corrosive Windstorm Wheat were OK.
Surprisingly soft-bodied darker brews included gently hop-spiced red-orange-fruited blueberry-soured tongue-tingler Thunderhead IPA, musky mocha-roasted coffee-dried Obsidian Porter, lemony orange-peeled dry-spiced mineral-grained Nothin’ Greator Doppelbock and nutty maple-sapped espresso-tinged oatmeal-backed serenity Blackout Stout.
Distinguished dry-bodied cherrywood-scented rye-breaded tobacco-leafed peat-mossy Catalina Pale Ale intrigued senses.
Hoppy honey-glazed blueberry-soured persimmon-cherry-pear-dabbed digestif Beers ‘N’ Berry may’ve topped them all.
www.thundercanyonbrewery.com GENTLE BEN’S BREWING
TUCSON, ARIZONA
Just outside the main gate to University of Arizona, popular campus pub GENTLE BEN’S BREWING (operating since 1970) boasted "Best College Bar" status, but the red-bricked adobe-styled tavern had mostly soapy brews, January ‘05. Antique beer trays lined dining walls; upstairs patio area supported collegiate patrons; and menu featured finger foods, burgers, sandwiches, plus specialty drinks such as T. Rex Cosmo and Rum Bomb.
Unique metal-tiered candleholder sampler held dry-honeyed grassy-hopped Tucson Blonde, metallic yellow-fruited sedation Copperhead Pale Ale, blandly caramel-chocolatey Red Cat Amber, fizzy seltzer-like raspberry-soured lemon-candied Taylor Jayne’s Raspberry Ale, minor berry-fruited whiskey-tinged Ben’s India Pale Ale and sticky perfume-spiced macadamia-bottomed Beer Down Nut Brown.
Peerless alternative, Mocha Java Stout, piled bittersweet coffee-roasted dark chocolate creaming atop toasted oats, a top notch dark ale.
www.gentlebens.com NIMBUS BREWERY
TUCSON, ARIZONA
Off-the-beaten-track industrial-bound dead end oasis, NIMBUS BREWERY (opened 1996 closed 2018), may be Arizona’s greatest brewpub, selling bottled versions locally.
Visited for an entire January ’05 afternoon with wife, Karen, we met some wild, crazy people at Nimbus that were marvelously entertained. Head brewer Scott Schwartz brings in Lexus yuppies to scooter trash with an excellent assortment.
A capacious warehouse, its high ceilings, spacious dining area, finely wood-carved bar, and rear brew tanks mark the generous interior.
Had ‘lite pub eats’ alongside wondrously divergent mesquite-honeyed cherry-berry-honeydew-fruited floral-spiced Dirty Guerra (Blonde) Ale, lemony orange-embittered clove-spiced Belgian White Ale, grapefruit-soured lemon-peeled currant-embittered Nimbus Pale Ale, brown-sugared maple-sapped dark-fruited English strong ale Old Monkey Shine and alcohol-licked pineapple-enticed orange-bruised grape-tannic dry-bodied Double Weizen.
Darker fare included prune-stewed cherry-dried mocha-etched Nimbus Brown Ale and wood-charred grape-dried cherry-parched cocoa-buttered coffee-roasted Oatmeal Stout.
Better still, black cherry-fueled sherry-dried Nitrogen-Pushed Oatmeal Stout coddled vanilla, Baker's chocolate, and espresso undertones.
www.nimbusbeer.com BROWN’S BREWING
TROY, NEW YORK
Friendly capacious joint, BROWN’S BREWING, located nine miles east of Albany in downtown Troy (with a second location in Walloomsack), proved to be a friendly destination on several journeys going to and leaving nearby Berkshire Mountains in western Massachusetts.
Located along the Hudson River across from the State Capitol, Brown's broad mix of Rensellear Polytechnical Institute students, local businessmen, and families make up the usual crowd. Its spacious factory-like brick-walled interior and large riverside deck offered cottage villager’s splendor. Classic American food dominated the menu and the French onion soup is always fantastic. Wood columns-floors-tables, Revolutionary War paintings, "The Tap Room, Revolution Hall" bar, and glass-encased copper brew tanks make up the first floor.
Upstairs, the lounge area, pool table, several games, and private Trojan Room provided fun atmosphere on first family trip, December '04.
Well-rounded brew selection included wheat-dried, corn-husked, citric-hopped Brown’s Light; Weihenstephan Weizen-aided, banana-sugared, yeast-doughy, lemony hard candied, coriander-spiced Hefe-Weizen; soft mocha-dried barley-smoked ESB; whiskey-malted cherry-soaked Pale Ale; chocolate-parched oats-toasted Brown Ale.
Mocha-dried coffee-soured walnut-seared maple-sapped oats-charred soother Oatmeal Stout and sweet chocolate-fronted maraschino cherry-dabbed tar-embittered Imperial Stout were fine dark-bodied reps. Bought last two in bottled version along with Brown’s Cherry Raspberry Ale, which boasted sour-to-sweet cherry tartness, bitter juniper-currant surge, soured cranberry-raspberry slurp, and leathery grass peppering nearly washed out at phenol finish.
January ’08, on the way home from Vermont brewpub tour, quaffed Dunkelweizen, a musty muscatel with mild sugared fig, stewed prune, unripe banana, black cherry, port, and burgundy notes.
Bought growler of chalky hop-charred chocolate-malted Brown’s Porter, a creamy vanilla-influenced cocoa-buttered peanut-shelled hazelnut-pecan-backed dry body with weak coffee remnant.
Arriving at my destination before noon, October '10, hung out with 17-year Brown brewer, Peter Martin, whom I’d met a few years back with the family. We shared a few thoughts after I quaffed samplers. On this visit, I'd garner four previously undiscovered brews.
Done up in a dry English style (despite American IPA tag), hop-charred alcohol-burnt India Pale Ale dismissed stylistic citric pining for twiggy earthen dewing, musty vegetal fungi and mild lemon bruise.
Blue-collar session beer enthusiasts would appreciate perfumed grassy-hopped wheat-chaffed citric-embittered leather-bound Tomhannock Pilsner.
"My only criticism of Tomhannock is it lacks the smoothness of traditional Czech pilsners," Martin said.
As for soft-toned salami-smoked beechwood-chipped Rauchbier, he offered, "It’s sweeter somewhere along the Marzen style. I’ve made American smoked beers a few times. The only ones I’d known beforehand were from Germany’s Bamberger region."
But today’s highlight was smooth bourbon-like Barrel Aged Whiskey Porter, a very approachable mocha-dried ‘big beer’ house special bringing creamy cocoa-powdered cherry-pureed raspberry wisps to hop-charred wood-smoked oaken vanilla, black grape, and vinous burgundy illusions.
Martin concluded, "I’m more of a traditionalist. I’ll do over-the-top seasonals. And big beers are fun. However, it’s easier to sell a gallon of pale ale over super-octane brews."
www.brownsbrewing.com CAMBRIDGE HOUSE – TORRINGTON
TORRINGTON, CONNECTICUT
In the heart of blue-collar Industrial town, Torrington, CAMBRIDGE HOUSE occupied the large first floor space of the exquisite green-marbled green-awninged Mertz Building. Opened in September ’08, then closed due to tax woes, 2010, the original Cambridge House operated from May ’06 'til its untimely demise.
My inaugural rain-soaked journey to this semi-remote western Connecticut borough in June ’09 proved fruitful. Entering into the elegant wood-furnished left-walled bar with large exposed ducts, high ceilings, and multiple TV’s, this capacious brewpub-restaurant served notice with bulky aluminum brewtanks at its large-windowed frontage.
A small loft area over the right side dining area added to the elegance and a family-styled dining room was off to the far left. Beer-grained pizza, brew-wiches, beer-battered fish, and burgers filled the menu.
I had broccoli-cheese soup with perfumed floral-fruited corn-oiled metallic astringency Litchfield County Lager, lemony orange-bruised hop-spiced honey-soured twiggy-leafed Torrington Summer Ale and brown chocolate-y spice-hopped wood-toned tea-like ESB.
Citric-hopped wood-lacquered currant-embittered peach-apple-pear-tinged CBH IPA had mightier grapefruit presence than softer spice-hopped red-fruited banana-bruised cantaloupe-tinged CBH Big Hoppy Imperial IPA.
Well-rounded Three Steve Stout maintained sturdy coffee-beaned maple-sapped black chocolate-y frontage, sticky anise follow-up, and tar-like cedar-burnt oats-charred backdrop.
www.cbhbrew.com MAUMEE BAY BREWING
TOLEDO, OHIO
In an old red brick building off Route 79 near industrial port of Toledo lies high-ceilinged multi-purpose venue MAUMEE BAY BREWING, visited August ‘06. Its large spread includes banquet facilities, several dining areas, and a commodious bar with immense liquor-stored antique-mirrored mantle. Wood cabinets with beer bottles and cans take up open spaces along stairwells and backrooms while kitchen serves sandwiches, pizza, burgers, and chicken.
On tap, sucked up light dry-bodied, maize-soured, wheat-chaffed, malt-spiced lager, Buckeye Beer (bottled versions available), wheat-cracked, corn-sugared, grapefruit-peach-dabbed Glass City Pale Ale, crystal-malted, grassy-hopped, maize-backed Fallen Timbers Red Ale, blandly acetous, fig-nut conflux Kolsch and dry, lightly smoked, hop-charred, chocolate-malted, butterscotch-soured, hazelnut-tinged Nut Brown Ale.
Better selections were sweet coriander-spiced, orange peel-dried, tart-candied, lemon pith-embittered Belgian Wit, butternut-swayed, barleywine-snipped, Vienna malt-roasted Dark Lager and soft-tongued, Centennial-hopped, orange-fruited, cask-conditioned IPA (a strangely oxidized dandy that never allows sour yeast acidity to ruin resounding pine-needled floral-dried peach-grapefruit bittering).
www.oh-maumeebaybrewingco.com LOVEJOYS
AUSTIN, TEXAS
Bohemian state capitol, Austin, home of University of Texas, benefits enormously from pub-sprawled 6th Street area, visited March ’04 (with Houston-via-Chicago pal Bob Conley).
Nearby Naches Street brewpub, LOVEJOYS (closed July 2012), submitted exquisite fruited-grained Hop On Pop IPA, dry coffee-roasted black cherry-influenced Enns River Stout, bittersweet bread-n-buttered Sparky’s Special Ale and wavering soft-hopped Samson’s Best Pale Ale.
www.myspace.com/lovejoys
Tried buttery citric spice-hopped Live Oak Big Bark Amber Ale on tap at Highway 35’s Pappadeaux Restaurant while eating shellfish beforehand.