On tap at Flying Saucer in St. Louis, ambitious rye whiskey barrel-aged tripel recasts brewers’ expressive Velvet Rooster with considerable success. Its dry whiskey alcohol warmth affects the glistening fruited bourbon sweetness, tripel-styled peppery hop spicing and light pilsner malting, finishing with an oaken vanilla veneer. Along the way, tangy cane-sugared banana daiquiri, bruised orange, pineapple, peach, tangerine and apricot illusions as well as lesser almond-coconut-pecan snips contrast vinous Lambrusco champagne esters and distant phenolic astringency.

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