Dusky resinous floral waft, lingering piney hop bitterness, dulled lemon limed candy sweetness, and bland grapefruit mouthfeel receive creamy caramel roasting. But wavered ruddy copper-hazed medium body ultimately lacks distinction, firm character, and stylistic bite. On second passing, soured citric dryness regales hop- charred wood-sharp bittering, gaining pink grapefruit tang to cracker-like Pacman yeast bottom.
All posts by John Fortunato
MAGIC HAT BLACK LAGER SCHWARZBIER
Dry roasted hop char, burnt barleymalt brusqueness, and walnut-hazelnut coarseness befit deep brown German-styled lager. Hefty raisin-pecan-fig penetration sweetens earthen tobacco core and cherry jubilee tinge before anise-laced port finish beckons.
MAES PILS
Fair pale-toned bubbly-headed German-styled Belgian pilsner with unassuming corn-soured aroma, dry metallic mouthfeel and buttered biscuit cereal graining. Subtle lemon-laced mist provide easy drinkin’ flow for weak, metallic light-bodied Belgian. Insufficiently thin malt backbone strictly for lightweights.
(MAD RIVER) STEELHEAD SCOTCH PORTER
Truly complex tawny-hued maroon-highlighted lactic porter (with lovely cascading tan bubbles surfacing on initial pour) plies luxuriant whiskey nose to sweet maple-powdered cocoa linger. Responsive chocolate-hazelnut affluence stormed by peat moss, tobacco leaf, fig, and date as adjacent cherry-raisin illusion builds. Then, charred pine, black tar, and charcoal bluntness thickens bitterly off dry finish.
MAD RIVER STEELHEAD DOUBLE INDIA PALE ALE
Honeyed citrus nose rivals grapefruit-peeled peach-pear-apple fruiting before creamy toffee-butterscotch midst encounters dry spice-hopped bittering. Murkily saffron medium body never lets loud 8.6% alcohol burn impair flavor, but surprisingly mild bitterness may preclude ‘double’ IPA grandeur.
(MAD RIVER) STEELHEAD EXTRA STOUT
Extremely rich dry-bodied mahogany stout serenades penetrative grains, sugared oats, burnt caramel, and maple sap with lingered coffee roast to subtly bitter smoked finish, hiding heavy alcohol content for less restrictive novices.
MAD RIVER JOHN BARLEYCORN BARLEYWINE ALE
Serpentine-like turbid magenta barleywine changes course like vintage wine. Haughtily acrid molasses-draped charred wood, black tar, and tobacco chaw bittering, alongside hefty 9.5% alcohol burn, may disappoint softer palates, but escalating lactic robustness sweetens endless peculiarities efficiently. Chewy brown-sugared chocolate-vanilla upsurge informs pureed raisin creaminess, orange-bruised cherry puree compaction, and illustrious medicinal finish. Dry bourbon, burgundy, and brandy wining stumbles across hard-candied coriander-spiced anise stickiness. Not for the weak-hearted. Compares favorably to highly efficient double bocks.
MAD RIVER JAMAICA SUNSET INDIA PALE ALE
West Coast IPA given bright Jamaican reggae-styled label, lingering tongue-coating citrus fruitiness, and pleasing berry-enhanced barley-oats finish. Zesty citric hop spicing counters earthy grains and herbal hemp twist. Sort of a cross between a bitter IPA and sweet red ale.
MAD RIVER JAMAICA RED ALE
Burgundy-hued bitter with mocha malt pungency, bittersweet spiced-hop refuge, and tart red-fruited simmer. Oxidized chocolate undermines unconvincingly dry roasted barley finish.
MADONNA WHEAT ALE
Made from Belgian recipe, dry Scotch entry adorns alcohol-doused, hop-tingled mandarin orange tang and crisp seltzer fizz of moderate-bodied Romanian wit. Phenol finish disrupts wafting grapefruit-lemon esters.
(MADISON) WILLOUGHBY’S SCOTTISH ALE
Heavily carbolic billowy-headed rust-hued full-bodied ale with creamy facade, white wine fragrance, and candied Scotch influence. Sinewy yeast absorbs fizzy orange peel mist. Chewy and rich but lacking assertive malt finish. Compares favorably to Mac Andrews Scotch Ale.
MADISON OLD 76 ALE
Sweet barleywine persistence and musty alcohol-fueled berry fruitiness frame full-bodied roasted grain thickness. Sweet n’ sour candy finish rounds out extremely busy ale.