Satisfying English-styled barleywine lacks exquisite profile depth of richer competition, but its polite caramel malting, brown-sugared raisin sweetness and syrupy molasses sapping ultimately suffice. Light bourbon licks bring mild alcohol burn to dried fruited finish. Latent fig, date and apricot illusions as well as wavered vanilla pudding, butterscotch and gingerbread nuances fill the back end.
All posts by John Fortunato
TERRAPIN LIQUID LUNCH PEANUT BUTTER & JELLY PORTER
Unequivocal lunchtime snack brings bittersweet peanut-buttered creaming and dark-roasted black chocolate malting to ripe red raspberry rasp. Salty peanut-shelled roast seeps into crusty molasses toast bottom. Latent gingerbread cookie, cinnamon bread and cacao powder illusions as well as compact red grape, black cherry and blackberry fruiting envelop trusty PB&J theme.
LISTERMANN NUTCASE PEANUT BUTTER PORTER
True ‘nutcases’ will enjoy thick ‘n creamy peanut butter powdering of dark-roasted nut brown-related porter. Overriding peanut butter flavoring picks up honey nut sweetness and hazelnut chocolate residue to contrast mild op-oiled black coffee bittering. A truly convincing novelty.
TRIPLE DIGIT CHICKOW! HAZELNUT DOUBLE BROWN ALE
Inspiringly complex full body offers maple-sugared molasses sap and burgundy-licked dried fruiting to caramel-burnt hazelnut toasting. Fudgy chocolate respite deepens nuttiness as buttered pecan, almond and praline reinforce well-integrated hazelnut heft. Dried cherry, raisin and fig nuances waver beside tertiary gingerbread, vanilla, creme brulee and malted milk ball sweetness. A rich, creamy dessert treat.
RIVERTOWN BELGIAN STYLE WIT
Indefinite amber-cleared moderation goes on a sour saison spree with its orange-desiccated lemondrop tartness and musty earthen herbage. Dry cardboard malting depletes coriander spicing and orange peel zesting.
RIVERTOWN SOULLESS SCARLETT SOUR ALE
Stylishly nebulous Flanders Red brings muddled green grape and red cherry souring plus plum-wined champagne yeast to coarse lactic acidity. Olfactory waft seems peculiar. Lemon-rotted mango piquancy outlasts tannic apple-skinned nuances.
RHINEGEIST FOOL SAISON FARMHOUSE ALE
Muted ‘lemondrop hops’ and ‘tart lemon, pepper and spring flowers’ provide initial carbolic effervescence to grassy barnyard desiccation, herbal honeyed licks and tender white wheat base. Lemon-candied finish lacks resolve.
MAUMEE BAY GLASS CITY PALE ALE
Tolerable moderation needs crisper floral-perfumed citrus hop punch and richer pale wheat malting. Mildly embittered grapefruit-peeled lemon zest and soft pineapple-orange-peach tang fade alongside tea-like oxidation.
LOST NATION GOSE
Pleasingly dry chartreuse-clouded moderation (in a can) offers mild lime-soured lemon tartness and lively carbolic spritz to stylish sea-salted coriander spicing. Briny citric acidity gains mellow yellow peach twinge and clean-watered minerality above light grassy barnyard pungency.
HOPPIN’ FROG GANGSTER FROG INDIA PALE ALE
Ridiculously appealing sessionable IPA offers judicious floral-perfumed fruit spicing and creamy caramel malting to moderately bitter pine-needled hop resin. Resilient red grapefruit, pineapple and navel orange tang backed up by equally juicy mango, peach, tangerine, cantaloupe, honeydew and lemon meringue illusions above biscuit-y wheat breaded spine. Arguably the best easygoing summertime session beer.
HARPOON TAKE 5 SESSION IPA
ABITA WROUGHT IRON IPA
Sunny grapefruit tang leads the way for spicy floral-perfumed Mosaic hop tropicalia. Orange-bruised pineapple, nectarine, honydew, papaya and kiwi sweetness contrasts moderate piney bittering and weedy earthen resin. Syrupy spruce sugaring adds residual sweetening to rye-honeyed caramel malt base.