On tap at Ambulance, “paradoxical” Black India Pale Ale works smoky hop-charred black patent malts into sweet ‘n sour fruit tartness. Moderate black grape, pineapple, orange and tangerine illusions graze cocoa-powdered dark chocolate roast. Latent anise influence affects dried-fruited mocha finish.
All posts by John Fortunato
BELL’S URANUS THE MAGICIAN – BLACK DOUBLE IPA
Well-designed ‘Planets Series’ release (circa 2014) is Bell’s first foray into Black IPA styling. Dehusked black malt roast reinforces syrupy dark chocolate entry that peaks above zesty citra-hopped resilience and resinous pine sapping. Caramel-burnt molasses follow-thru sweetens dark mocha theme above lemony grapefruit-pineapple bittering as well as black grape tartness and distant clementine-tangerine-peach-mango inkling.
NEW HOLLAND MICHIGAN HATTER IPA
On tap at Ambulance, sessionable midwestern India Pale Ale maintains centrist ‘tude. Citric floral-perfumed Cascade hops pickup fresh-cut grass astringency before gaining honeyed fruit sweetness. Orange-juiced mango, pineapple, peach and grapefruit tang seeps into piney earthen recess.
NEW HOLLAND TASMANIAN HATTER GALAXY INDIA PALE ALE
Leaving a peaceful easy feeling upon the palate, sessionable IPA layers rock-candied sugar malts atop sunny tropical fruiting and clean mineral watered crisping in a highly appealing manner. Lightly pined grapefruit, pineapple, mango and papaya tang combines with zesty orange peel bittering and subtle berry tones. Sweet caramelized wheat backdrop picks up wispy butterscotch twist at brisk fruit-spiced finish.
JOLLY PUMPKIN FORGOTTEN TALES OF THE LAST GYPSY BLENDER (SERIES 1 VOL. 1)
Approachable oak-aged sour ale brewed in collaboration with famed Kansas City chef (circa 2015) proves fruitful. Sweet ‘n soured mango and tamarind adjuncts pick up tart Granny Smith apple pucker, oaken cherry subtlety, spicy mustard twang and raspberry vinaigrette smidge above musty earthen yeast fungi. Lime-dried papaya, pineapple, peach and guava nuances waver. Elegant soft-toned moderation will appeal to expansive mainstream thrists as well as less restrictive sour heads.
5 RABBIT LULO GALACTICO TELEFANTASTICO
Profound vegetal-herbed India Pale Ale extends stylistic boundaries with positive results. Tart green tomato-like naranjilla adjunct brings light celantro-peppered wisp, limey rhubarb twist and neutral celery crisping to daintily spiced grapefruit-orange tang. Just another interesting IPA offshoot.
RIVERTOWNE OLD WYLIE’S INDIA PALE ALE
Well-balanced medium body (in a can) brings brisk citrus pining and pale malt stimulance to sweet cookie dough center. Sharp citric hop bittering and grassy residue never outdo summery orange-peeled lemon zesting. Tangy pineapple, grapefruit, tangerine and cantaloupe undertones sweeten the core.
RIVERTOWNE ALL ABOARD ANNIVERSARY STOUT
Drab “Imperial Oatmeal Coffee Stout” in a can leaves phenol day-old coffee ground souring and musty dark chocolate chalking upon oily hop resin. Aromatic milk chocolate-y Yoo-Hoo sweetness totally undermined by cocoa-soured soy sludge.
WEYERBACHER 20TH ANNIVERSARY
Intriguing Belgian-styled dark ale (with robust 11% ABV) proves worthy as brewers’ 20th anniversary offering circa 2015. Ripe dried fruiting inundates coriander-spiced star anise sugaring and chewy caramel malting. Elevated raisin, plum, fig and prune conflux regales front end while less prominent blackberry, blueberry and red grape undertones as well as buttery coconut smidge add depth to richly complex dessert treat.
THE SHED PROFANITY ALE
First new year round offering in four years, 2015’s supposedly profane brown ale loads “obscenely malted hoppiness” atop dark-roasted nuttiness, black tea herbage and light floral citrus perk. Dry walnut, sweet pecan and honey-glazed hazelnut illusions inundate black patent malt setting. But its charred hop bittering seems understated despite obscene gesture.
ABITA BOURBON STREET IMPERIAL STOUT (AGED IN BOURBON BARRELS)
Velvety bourbon influence and caramel-burnt sugaring define soft-toned New Orleans digestif. Rum-spiced bourbon sweetness intensified by oats-roasted chocolate malting and creamy vanilla subtlety. Cookie dough, toasted coconut, maple molasses, fudged brownie and almond nuances settle below.
ABITA SEERSUCKER SUMMER PILS
Moderate German-styled pilsner (in a can) picks up shady blueberry-soured respite for polite lemon seltzer spritz, mild raw-grained grassy hop bittering and wispy herbal nip. Minor phenol astringency never depletes lemony blueberry tartness.