Underwhelming cherrywood-smoked amber-hued moderation lacks body, depth and underlying sweet malt contrast of similarly styled German rauchbiers. Initial peat-seared cherrywood smokiness dries up quickly, leaving only mild campfire singe, distant barbecued meat char and evaporative cedar burn to complement delicate pilsner-Vienna malting.
All posts by John Fortunato
SIERRA NEVADA NOONER PILSNER
Sensationally sessionable sunny-yellowed German-styled pils plies mellow floral-spiced IPA fruiting to mineral-grained biscuit malt base and grassy dry hop resin. Lemony orange tartness and piney grapefruit bitterness blend well with honeyed herbal nuances. Minor alcohol astringency at finish provides sharp bite.
COVINGTON STRAWBERRY ALE
Washed-out strawberry puree tartness turns sour contrasting light biscotti-like Graham Cracker sugaring. Delicate dry-hopped bittering and polite pilsner malting provide frail backdrop for distant lemon-limed strawberry, watermelon, cranberry and gooseberry illusions.
(BAVARIA) LANDER BRAU
Bland medium-bodied pale lager, reminiscent of simple grain-musked Czech or German pilsner, suffers from skunked yeast bittering, corn-oiled astringency and stale bread malting. Dry lemon-peeled bittering fails to ignite lightly metallic finish.
HERTOG JAN WEIZENER
Chaotic witbier from Netherlands proves to be richer, creamier and more flavorful than usual Belgian-styled wheat ales. Sweet-spiced banana, clove, coriander and vanilla illusions lie above sourdough yeast as ginger, ginseng and green tea herbage seeps in. Crisp Seltzer-like carbolic fizz perks up zesty citric-peeled bittering at sinewy fruit-spiced finish.
SMUTTLABS TAKEOVER AT AMBULANCE WORTH INVESTIGATING
Arguably New Hampshire’s best brewer, Portsmouth-originated Smuttynose Brewing has been building a solid reputation since opening in 1994. Now stationed at nearby Hampton, there recent experimental Smuttlabs draughts have found favor with the entire northeast coast. In February, AMBULANCE BREW HOUSE hosted several Smuttlabs elixirs reviewed below:
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: RYE STOUT
On tap at Ambulance, dry stout brings light rye-pumpernickel breading to smoked black chocolate influence, light-roast coffee bittering and molasses-breaded sweetness. Tertiary espresso, walnut and black bread illusions deepen mocha penetration.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: STRAWBERRY SHORT WEISS
On tap at Ambulance, reserved 3.75%ABV Berliner weisse retains soft-toned strawberry effervescence. Salty coriander fizz prickles soured watermelon, peach and pineapple undertones. Mossy earthen leathering fortifies ultra-dry fruited nature. Up the strawberries, though.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: SMOKED PEACH SHORT WEISSE
On tap at Ambulance, lactic-soured Berliner weisse camouflages ultra-dried peach tone and smoky white wheat sedation with tart lemon-lime parch. Salty carbolic fizz adds sparkly prickle to delicate white peach niche.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: GRISETTE COUNTRY TABLE BEER
On tap at Ambulance, soft-toned saison offers sour citric splurge to mineral-watered crisping, grassy hop bittering and wafting floral perfuming. Herbaceous lemon zest crowds the middle, but thin yellow-fruited finish lacks resolve.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: FINKELSTEIN HOPPY LAGER
On tap at Ambulance, wavering Imperial Pale Lager brings IPA-like piney fruiting to grouty citra hop astringency and musky vegetal herbage. Crisp pilsner malting saddles bitter lemon tartness, candied pineapple-strawberry conflux and light fennel snip.
ELYSIAN SPACE DUST IPA
On tap at Ambulance, superb medium-bodied India Pale Ale allows floral sweet-fruited luster to balance bitter citric hop prickle and resinous pine needling. Tropical orange, tangerine, pineapple, mango, peach and guava tang contrasts aggressive lemony grapefruit bittering. Biscuit-y malt spine lightens the bright fruit finish. Bottled version: Sessionable 8.2% ABV IPA brightens tongue with orange-peeled ruby red grapefruit tang, lemony pineapple zest and sweet crystal malting.