On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, dry-hopped rye pale ale brings illustrious yellow grapefruit bittering to resinous hop pungency. Tangy tangerine, orange and pineapple fruiting helps secure soft rye-breaded white wheat backbone.
All posts by John Fortunato
KANE SOLITUDE
On tap at Copper Mine, strong Belgian dark ale counters musty cellar dewiness with candi-sugared sweetness as well as dried-fruited black grape, black cherry and red plum tartness. Subtle wheat-flaked molasses malts and roasted tobacco crisping underscore mid-range brown chocolate-spiced nicety.
DOGFISH HEAD KVASIR
On tap at Copper Mine, interestingly uncommon ancient Danish recipe loads sinewy wildflower-honeyed birch syrup upon curious lingenberry, cranberry and raspberry souring. Rich Graham Cracker honeyed affluence overrides pollenated botanical herbage, white rum spicing and bruised orange tartness as well as casual berry intrigue. Not far removed from a heather-herbed gruit beer.
LOVERBEER BEER BRUGNA
On tap at Copper Mine, delectable sour ale utilizes lactic oak-aged wild yeast acidity to induce subtle Damaschine plum adjunct. Syrupy Blackstrap molasses drapes ancillary oaken cherry tartness, vinous sultana grape tannins, sharp green apple pucker and delicate white peach florality. Crisp mineral-watered freshness soaks acidic fruitiness and musty earthen herbs, lightening its overall approachability. Serve to fence-sitting fruit ale lovers prepared to try sour ales with lower breattanomyces funk.
BRONX ALEHOUSE
BRONX, NEW YORK
Inconspicuously perched a half-block down from Jerome Avenue’s elevated train tracks in the Kingsbridge section (bordering Riverdale), BRONX ALEHOUSE became a respected roadhouse-styled craft beer landmark upon opening, 2009. Owned by a few disenfranchised Manhattanites not willing to pay high midtown rents, they quickly went north to the upper Bronx to build their humble saloon. And now, Bronx Alehouse boasts possibly the fastest rotating drafts in the city.
A black-windowed frontage with weathered signpost welcomes neighborhood families, local businessmen, young hipsters and out-of-town beer freaks as I journey inside this cozy wood furnished joint during late January ’14 for Sunday brunch. Its red-bricked wood-paneled interior features rustic slotted wood floors, private left dining, 14-stool center bar, antique gas fireplace and several squeezed-in right side tables.
The Rangers and Devils square off for a historic hockey game at nearby Yankee Stadium on one of the four centralized TV’s at the bar as Weezer’s novel pop charmer, “Sweater,” emulates from the jukebox. I quaff a German Wheat Ale, hybridized Vermont brown ale and local IPA on this initial afternoon trip. For brunch, the massive Fried Chicken & Waffles (with honey-buttered Virginia ham and fried eggs) truly sufficed. Bronx Bomber sliders are also a local fave and complementary popcorn gets served to all the happy diners.
During my 2-hour stay, several of the 17 drafts ran dry and got replaced by similarly styled offerings. A long promenade of one-offs, seasonals, specialties, hybrids and oak-aged elixirs crowd the pro-active tap menu (which give interested customers an actual measure of kegged tap beer remaining). 30 bottles and 10 canned beers were also available, including Cigar City Florida Cracker Belgian White Ale.
Ettaler Benediktiner Weizen’s soft doughy buttering draped spritzy lemon zest and orange-dried banana-clove-bubblegum illusions. Long Trail Belgian Brunette brought dark-spiced dried fruiting to the fore but lacked expectant nuttiness. Bettering both, Singlecut Billy Half Stack IPA loaded bitter juniper hop pining atop grapefruit-peeled peach, pineapple, quince and orange briskness. (Full reviews in Beer Index)
Looking for a cool, unassuming vibe at a local metropolitan watering hole, then this here’s your answer.
www.bronxalehouse.com
BENEDIKTINER ETTALER WEIZEN
On tap at Bronx Alehouse, softly creamed hefeweizen plies mild doughy sugaring to expectant banana-clove-bubblegum triumvirate and tingly butterscotch notch. Zesty lemon spritz and dried orange-peach fruiting offer tertiary smidge. An easygoing moderation.
SINGLECUT BILLY HALF STACK IPA
On tap at Bronx Alehouse, bold India Pale Ale stuffs deeply embittered piney-hopped juniper musk and lemony grapefruit-peeled orange zest into tangy pineapple stead. Peach, apricot, apple, tangerine and cherry illusions stay beneath the all-encompassing pineapple juicing.
LONG TRAIL BELGIAN BRUNETTE
On tap at Bronx Alehouse, murky dark-spiced dried fruiting overruns nebulous English ‘nut brown’ styling of hybridized Belgian dark ale. Distant coffee-dried walnut snip contrasts wispy vanilla caramel creaming.
LONG TRAIL CULMINATION IMPERIAL CHOCOLATE PORTER
On tap at Track 84, sturdy cacao-roasted imperial porter retains gently creamed mocha theme. Cacao nibs powdering brings chalky brown and black chocolate malting to the fore. Vanilla bean, roasted coffee and bourbon undertones rise above dirty earthen coarseness.
LONG TRAIL MAPLE MAIBOCK
On tap at Twisted Elm, interestingly hybridized moderate-bodied pale lager drapes sugary Vermont maple syrup atop stylishly clay-hopped sour fruiting. Lemony orange tartness and bruised apple sweetness pick up mild spicing at Graham Cracker-honeyed wheat backend.
GREENPORT HARBOR ANTI-FREEZE WINTER ALE
On tap at Ginger Man, soft-toned dry-bodied ‘old ale’ brings dewy peat mustiness to fig-sugared molasses breading, peppery rum-spiced nutmeg seasoning and soy-sauced chocolate malting. Chestnut, date and plum undertones fail to penetrate moldy earthen murk.
RIEGELE COMMERZIENRAT PRIVAT
On tap at Ginger Man, lightly creamed helles-styed lager brings doughy corn flouring to mild grassy-hopped easement and fizzy Seltzer-watered steam. Lemony maize dryness and milky rice-like neutrality provide minor detail to dankly grained moderation.
