All posts by John Fortunato

PUG RYAN’S STEAKHOUSE & BREWERY

DILLON / FRISCO, COLORADO

Across the street from Dillon’s Best Western lies freestanding white-bricked green-trimmed PUG RYAN’S STEAKHOUSE & BREWERY, visited August ‘07 and opened '97. Named after a local outlaw, Pug Ryan had small front bar (surrounded by TV’s), rear dining-brew tanks, overhung patio, and wood-paneled back. Winter sports paraphernalia and tin liquor canisters lined walls. Nearby Dillon Marina’s tiki bar featured a few Pug brews quaffed after wife and I enjoyed stormy afternoon pontoon boat roundabout.

Corn-syrupy citrus-juiced orange-oiled moderate-bodied Cream Ale, blurry lemon-wedged lime-fizzed floral-hopped moderation Morningwood Wheat and lemon-dried woody-hopped oats-barren bohemian-styled Pug Ryan’s Pali Pilsner suited lightweights.

Pallid fig-date-ensconced fruit-caked coffee-oiled Kilt Lifter Scottish Ale and nitro-injected chocolate-creamy coffee-perked Irish Stout were fine reps.

Over The Rail Pale Ale hit the mark firmly with its overt perfume-hopped spicing, tangy apple-pear-grapefruit fruiting, and implicit alcohol bang.

www.pugryans.com

DAM BREWERY

DILLON / FRISCO, COLORADO Beautiful Alpine area of Rocky Mountains is too gorgeous and pristine for mere words. My wife and I took a 3-hour pontoon boat cruise around Dillon Reservoir between visiting three fine area brewpubs, August ’07. Dillon’s DAM BREWERY, a freestanding building with grain silo at the Route 6 mall, had definite sports bar atmosphere. Tan-wood-paneled green-sided Dam featured U-shaped central bar (with opposing flat screen TV’s), left brew tanks, rear umbrella-covered deck, loft level billiards-seating, and separate back dining area. Build-your-own burger, appetizers, salmon, and rib-eye went well with lemony corn-sugared wheat-husked oats-honeyed dry-hopped Dam Lyte, light popcorn-like rye-breaded lemon-fizzed Paradise Pilsner, floral-fizzed honey-glazed vanilla-sweetened grapefruit-tangy Vienna-styled Dam Straight Lager and exemplary lemon-candied floral-teased eucalyptus-cooled grain-dried Wildernest Wheat. While alcohol-burned woody-hopped currant-embittered apple-orange-spiced Extra Pale Ale and mild caramel-molasses-like, hazelnut-macadamia-pecan-backed Sweet George’s Brown were just alright, banana-honeyed citric-spiced Hefe-Weizen and creamy black chocolate-y hazel-nutty Mc Luhr’s Irish Stout truly captivated. Bitterer than most Colorado competition, perfumed floral hop-embittered India Pale Ale placed grapefruit rind and wood chipped hop dryness alongside tenacious red-yellow fruiting. www.dambrewery.com

FORT STREET BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN Going South past Dearborn, Lincoln Park’s ample FORT STREET BREWERY opened in a new-sprung freestanding red brick building with green awning during ‘05. Visited August ’06, its high ceiling interior featured an L-shaped bar with silver kettles, exposed ductwork, and well-placed TV’s. Inexpensive sports pub fare went well with lighter offerings such as straw-grassed wheat-dried maize-husked yellow-fruited clove-licked Lincoln Lager, mandarin orange-sweet, banana-pineapple-dabbed, prickly pear-soured, cracked wheat-backed Summer Sunsation Hefeweizen, and acrid hop-roasted chocolate-nutty Farmers Tan Brown Ale. Better were astringently alcoholic red-orange-fruited nut-charred Steam Engine, espresso-embittered chocolate-soured maple-walnut-tinged floral-spiced Beernormous Imperial Stout and bluntly orange-grapefruit-soured pine-backed Amarillo-hopped Piston Pale Ale. Incredible cask conditioned Sloe & Fizzy soaked Steam Engine Beer with Tanqueray Gin for a clean-tasting wood-dried red-fruited wheat-honeyed juniper-fig-aided stimulant. Sharp hop-spiced root beer, Doug’s Turbo Sasparilla (named after brewer Doug Beedy), with its ginger-rooted grassy grains sufficed non-alcohol crowd. During February '14 trip, my pal Dennis Flubacher enjoyed the $9 sampler beer tray and quesadillas while blues music played in the background. He picked up a certain peanut-shelled walnut and pecan influence for my previously imbibed Lincoln Lager, then moved on to some newer offerings brought back home for my consumption. Old West pilsner, Downriver Fog, placed peppy hop bittering alongside walnut and hazelnut illusions. Peat-malted black tea earthiness and dill-pickled souring surrounded caramel malted Malcomson's Scotch Ale. Uniquely blended Snowplowed, an unusual light-bodied winter warmer, brought caramel nuttiness and rye-honeyed oats to mild juniper berry bittering. Equally abstruse Kudzu IPA plied dry Japanese Sorachi Ace hops to sake-riced black and red peppering. 9th anniversary celebrator, Wheat Wine No. 9, loaded white-sugared honeyed wheat with apricot, pear and quince nuances to contrast its bitter alcohol-fueled hop astringency. Two more limited edition Valentine's Day brews made the rounds as well. Crisply clean moderation, Pommaceous Apple Ale, allowed Granny Smith apple souring to snazz up its wheat-grained lemongrass dalliance. Kombuchu, a German-styled moderation, placed barley-wheat malts and brown-riced sweetness against herbal lemongrass souring. As for the updated Beernormous, its viscous coffee bean-oiled dark chocolate and Blackstrap molasses entry gained a nutty respite to contrast mild hop bitterness. www.fortstreetbeer.com Bought several King, New Holland, Traverse City, Nine G, O’Fallon, and Summit bottled beers (plus Two Brothers Incinerator) at South Dearborn’s remarkable Merchant’s Fine Wine in August ’06. www.merchantsfinewine.com

BONFIRE BISTRO & BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

On the way West towards Ann Arbor near Home Depot on 7 Mile Road in suburban Northville, freestanding red bricked BONFIRE BISTRO & BREWERY, open since 1999 (and closed 2007), featured spacious horseshoe-shaped bar with large booth-dominated dining space and brew tanks located near outdoor patio, August ‘04.

Wood fire pizzas, soups, salads, and sandwiches plus fish and chicken entrees made fine fodder for lighter brews such as lemon-tart wheat-soured grass-dried German-styled Firelight Lager and cereal grain-honeyed chestnut-roasted Vulcan’s Vienna Ale.

Elegant cherry-bruised grapefruit-embittered berry-soured Golden Medal Red Ale truly sufficed and dewy cherry-apple-ripened Burning Brand Bitter retained elegant warmth –both were softly carbonated hand-pulled delights.

 Regularly tapped Burning Brand Bitter will please heartier thirsts with sharply bitter-hopped wood-burnt depth and lost citrus twist.

Crystal-malted quince-spiced orange-soured Irish-styled Roaring Red Ale retained caramelized apple resonation.

Superb whiskey-toned Patriot IPA retained red-fruited hop-embittered poignancy.

Chaffed wheat astringency countered banana-clove pitch imbuing diacetyl Hefeweizen while pithy hop-roasted espresso-fronted Promethean Porter got drier by dark chocolate finish.

BIG BUCK BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN Across Highway 75 one mile away from Flint’s Redwood Lodge, Auburn Hills’ villa-styled BIG BUCK BREWERY featured huge interior with 25-foot ceilings, central bar area, ample dining space, and a big screen TV in billiards area, August ‘04. Fabulous menu offered steaks, burgers, pork porterhouse, and big appetizers. Brew tanks in back face the highway and brew master Doug Jakubiak crafts seasonal and traditional fare there. Traditional brews included low calorie corn-husked wheat-dried raw-grained Buck Naked (when mixed with homemade black cherry soda makes a scrumptious Cherry Shandy), diacetyl cherry-chapsticked cotton-candied Kolsch-styled Big Buck, malt-lagered amber-grained quince-peach-grapefruit-spiced Antler Ale, butterscotch-sugared grape-ripened Redbird Ale and bittersweet red apple-ripened, white peach-aided, Scotch-malted IPA. Seasonals imbibed were first rate red-fruited hop-embittered malt-lacquered Steam Beer, mildly carbolic grapefruit-fringed Bavarian lager Munich Helles, tangy raspberry-pureed Raspberry Wheat, 4-grained 3-hopped caramelized apple-fronted Scotch-sweet Doc’s ESB, wispy banana-tart clove-spiced vanilla-creamed summertime Hefe-Weizen and espresso-milked chocolate-sugared cherry-dried River Stout (reminiscent of Murphy’s Irish Stout). www.bigbuck.com

REDWOOD LODGE MESQUITE GRILL & BREWPUB

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN Further north of Birmingham’s Big Rock Chop & Brewhouse, Flint’s REDWOOD LODGE MESQUITE GRILL & BREWPUB (opened 1996), with its winter resort warmth, wooden furnishings, outside patio, and raw bar, retained a welcoming cottage-like intimacy, August ‘04. Quaffed phenol floral-hopped grapefruit-mellowed Redwood Light Pils, summery citric-soured wheat-backed Kolschbier, tart yellow-clouded banana-grapefruit-orange-sweet clove-influenced Belgian Wit, orange-bruised cherry-tart Saison, citric wheat-cracked Munich Helles Lager, softly red-fruited perfume-hopped American IPA, buttery dry-fruited Pale Ale, and black chocolate-y espresso-roused Russian Stout with lobster-steak dinner. www.theredwoodlodge.com

BIG ROCK CHOP & BREWHOUSE

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN Provincial northern Detroit suburb Birmingham’s hunting lodge-styled BIG ROCK CHOP & BREWHOUSE offered exquisite dining, art deco design, 400 quality wines, and banquet rooms galore at railroad station location (visited August ’04 and closed September 2021). Sitting at centrally located bar, I quaffed brewer Dan Rogers' fruitful libations. Buttery light-fruited triviality Lo-Carb Blonde Lager, toned-down caramel-malted fruit-spiced Raymondo De Rojo Red Ale, quince-ripened woody hop-doused Raggedy Ass India Pale Ale, and soft-hopped plantain-fried peach-bruised pear-skinned orange-soured Weizenheimer Hefeweizen with wine-sauteed mussels. Curacao orange-fronted grapefruit peel-embittered coriander-spiced Belgian-styled witbier White Cap Ale and hop-roasted espresso-like dessert beer Flying Buffalo Irish Dry Stout were even better choices. www.bigrockchophouse.com

COPPER CANYON BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

Farther west of Detroit, Southfield’s COPPER CANYON BREWERY (opened 1995, closed 2013) provided upscale elegance, patio dining, fireplace, pool tables, and glass-encased copper ferment tanks August '04.

Sluggishly nutty, fresh-cut wheat-chaffed Northwestern Gold Helles Lager, mildly creamy citrus-tangy diacetyl-laden Copper Canyon Alt, alcohol-burnt citric-sharp herbal-tinged Devil’s Peak IP, and coffee bean-dried hop-roasted wood-charred Buffalo Jump Stout are offered year round.

Seasonal brews included worthy mandarin orange-spiked ginger-hopped floral-accented coriander-dabbed Belgian Saison and watered down almond-buttered cocoa-malted whiskey-pleated Anniversary Ale.

www.coppercanyonbrewery.com

WOODWARD AVENUE BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN Heading westward from Detroit to Ferndale, roadhouse-styled pub, WOODWARD AVENUE BREWERY, served a hip young crowd and had neat license plate menus at its brick-walled wood-floored upstairs bar August ‘04 during annual Dream Cruise car show.. Rangy brew selection included unique licorice-Schnapps Custom Porter; spritzy Belgian-styled spearmint-clove-banana-influenced Wittekerke; sweet vanilla-chocolate-malted Vanilla Porter; buttery banana-clove Hefe-Weizen; dry-spiced Cascade-hopped Pale Ale; mild chocolate-mocha-embittered Brown Ale; and tart strawberry seed-fronted wheat-backed Raspberry Blonde. www.thewabsite.com

MOTOR CITY BREWING WORKS

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

Across from Traffic Jam & Snug in same downtown area, cozy MOTOR CITY BREWING WORKS draws the cool underground rock crowd (opened 1994 and visited August ’04 and as of 2025 the oldest operating Detroit area brewery). Serving the Wayne State College crowd, Motor City's salvaged Industrial era materials celebrate local craftsmen.

When I arrive, nobody's home. So I head to the top deck from the cocktail-tabled ground floor tap room. Known best for the classic Detroit-styled dark mild ale, Ghettoblaster, Motor City also proudly supports the local arts.

Strong 10% alcohol maraschino cherry-sweet candi-sugared juniper-embittered Strong Ale and quince-apricot-soured Courvosier-like Amber Wheat showed resplendent craftsmanship.

Earthy peat moss serenaded the subtle nuttiness and toasted breading of Ghettoblaster, an undeniably smoothly soothing flagship offering.

Buttery maple-molasses-sweet cola-walnut-exposed Nut Brown Ale, soft orange-fizzed wheat-backed Pale Ale and soapy pale-malted sour-fruited mash tun-wafted Lager brought variety.

www.motorcitybeer.com

TRAFFIC JAM & SNUG

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN Similar to northern Michigan mainstream pub, Frankenmuth Brewery, providing serviceable standard fare, TRAFFIC JAM & SNUG was Detroit’s first brewpub in 1987 (and ended in a devastating fire during May 2022). Visited August ’04, the 40-year-old bar inside this old brick building shows its age and the wood paneled interior fits blue collar Wayne State University neighborhood. Award winning cheeses crowd the deli cooler while soups, salads, entrees, and great desserts fill out the menu. Rear brew tanks offered musky corn-soured wheat-imbued citrus-muted Grand Theft Pilsner, gentle raw-grained Steam Beer, softly acidic hop-embittered currant-juniper-sniped 40th Anniversary Pale Ale, butterscotch-candied whiskey-burnt medicinal-bitten Strong Ale and fizzily hop-charred coffee-swiped Dry Rye Stout. www.trafficjamdetroit.com

ATWATER BLOCK BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN August ’04 visit convinced me there are more quality brewpubs within the Motor City’s extended boundaries than any other American city. Arguably the finest, tiny Dragonmead in westerly suburb, Warren, offered 50+ handcrafted on-tap brews, though admirable neighboring competitor Kuhnhenn has brewed nearly as many since opening. Nearby Royal Oak had three reputable brewpubs. Plus, three dependable brewpubs line Detroit's urban innercity. In the historic warehouse district along historic Rivertown (across from Windsor, Ontario), high-ceilinged turn-of-the-century brick factory building, ATWATER BLOCK BREWERY, featured large glass-enclosed brew tanks behind wood bar serving well rounded beers while kitchen catered garden salads, soups, fish ‘n chips, and sundry appetizers. Seating booths scatter the main dining space and a fireplace dons the left side supper area. Quaffed brewer Mark Reith’s swanky citric-soured wheat-husked Atwater Kolsch over lunch, buying bottled versions of Atwater Pilsner, Hell Pale Lager, and Dunkel Dark Lager plus Stoney Creek Double Chocolate Ale and superlative Vanilla Porter (reviewed in Beer Index). www.atwaterbeer.com