All posts by John Fortunato

BIG ROCK CHOP & BREWHOUSE

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

Provincial northern Detroit suburb Birmingham’s hunting lodge-styled BIG ROCK CHOP & BREWHOUSE offered exquisite dining, art deco design, 400 quality wines, and banquet rooms galore at railroad station location (visited August ’04 and closed September 2021).

Sitting at centrally located bar, I quaffed brewer Dan Rogers’ fruitful libations. Buttery light-fruited triviality Lo-Carb Blonde Lager, toned-down caramel-malted fruit-spiced Raymondo De Rojo Red Ale, quince-ripened woody hop-doused Raggedy Ass India Pale Ale, and soft-hopped plantain-fried peach-bruised pear-skinned orange-soured Weizenheimer Hefeweizen with wine-sauteed mussels.

Curacao orange-fronted grapefruit peel-embittered coriander-spiced Belgian-styled witbier White Cap Ale and hop-roasted espresso-like dessert beer Flying Buffalo Irish Dry Stout were even better choices.

www.bigrockchophouse.com

COPPER CANYON BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

Farther west of Detroit, Southfield’s COPPER CANYON BREWERY (opened 1995, closed 2013) provided upscale elegance, patio dining, fireplace, pool tables, and glass-encased copper ferment tanks August ’04.

Sluggishly nutty, fresh-cut wheat-chaffed Northwestern Gold Helles Lager, mildly creamy citrus-tangy diacetyl-laden Copper Canyon Alt, alcohol-burnt citric-sharp herbal-tinged Devil’s Peak IP, and coffee bean-dried hop-roasted wood-charred Buffalo Jump Stout are offered year round.

Seasonal brews included worthy mandarin orange-spiked ginger-hopped floral-accented coriander-dabbed Belgian Saison and watered down almond-buttered cocoa-malted whiskey-pleated Anniversary Ale.

www.coppercanyonbrewery.com

WOODWARD AVENUE BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

Heading westward from Detroit to Ferndale, roadhouse-styled pub, WOODWARD AVENUE BREWERY, served a hip young crowd and had neat license plate menus at its brick-walled wood-floored upstairs bar August ‘04 during annual Dream Cruise car show..

Rangy brew selection included unique licorice-Schnapps Custom Porter; spritzy Belgian-styled spearmint-clove-banana-influenced Wittekerke; sweet vanilla-chocolate-malted Vanilla Porter; buttery banana-clove Hefe-Weizen; dry-spiced Cascade-hopped Pale Ale; mild chocolate-mocha-embittered Brown Ale; and tart strawberry seed-fronted wheat-backed Raspberry Blonde.

www.thewabsite.com

MOTOR CITY BREWING WORKS

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

Across from Traffic Jam & Snug in same downtown area, cozy MOTOR CITY BREWING WORKS draws the cool underground rock crowd (opened 1994 and visited August ’04 and as of 2025 the oldest operating Detroit area brewery). Serving the Wayne State College crowd, Motor City’s salvaged Industrial era materials celebrate local craftsmen.

When I arrive, nobody’s home. So I head to the top deck from the cocktail-tabled ground floor tap room. Known best for the classic Detroit-styled dark mild ale, Ghettoblaster, Motor City also proudly supports the local arts.

Strong 10% alcohol maraschino cherry-sweet candi-sugared juniper-embittered Strong Ale and quince-apricot-soured Courvosier-like Amber Wheat showed resplendent craftsmanship.

Earthy peat moss serenaded the subtle nuttiness and toasted breading of Ghettoblaster, an undeniably smoothly soothing flagship offering.

Buttery maple-molasses-sweet cola-walnut-exposed Nut Brown Ale, soft orange-fizzed wheat-backed Pale Ale and soapy pale-malted sour-fruited mash tun-wafted Lager brought variety.

www.motorcitybeer.com

TRAFFIC JAM & SNUG

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

Similar to northern Michigan mainstream pub, Frankenmuth Brewery, providing serviceable standard fare, TRAFFIC JAM & SNUG was Detroit’s first brewpub in 1987 (and ended in a devastating fire during May 2022). Visited August ’04, the 40-year-old bar inside this old brick building shows its age and the wood paneled interior fits blue collar Wayne State University neighborhood.

Award winning cheeses crowd the deli cooler while soups, salads, entrees, and great desserts fill out the menu.

Rear brew tanks offered musky corn-soured wheat-imbued citrus-muted Grand Theft Pilsner, gentle raw-grained Steam Beer, softly acidic hop-embittered currant-juniper-sniped 40th Anniversary Pale Ale, butterscotch-candied whiskey-burnt medicinal-bitten Strong Ale and fizzily hop-charred coffee-swiped Dry Rye Stout.

www.trafficjamdetroit.com

ATWATER BLOCK BREWERY

DETROIT VICINITY, MICHIGAN

August ’04 visit convinced me there are more quality brewpubs within the Motor City’s extended boundaries than any other American city. Arguably the finest, tiny Dragonmead in westerly suburb, Warren, offered 50+ handcrafted on-tap brews, though admirable neighboring competitor Kuhnhenn has brewed nearly as many since opening. Nearby Royal Oak had three reputable brewpubs. Plus, three dependable brewpubs line Detroit’s urban innercity.

In the historic warehouse district along historic Rivertown (across from Windsor, Ontario), high-ceilinged turn-of-the-century brick factory building, ATWATER BLOCK BREWERY, featured large glass-enclosed brew tanks behind wood bar serving well rounded beers while kitchen catered garden salads, soups, fish ‘n chips, and sundry appetizers. Seating booths scatter the main dining space and a fireplace dons the left side supper area.

Quaffed brewer Mark Reith’s swanky citric-soured wheat-husked Atwater Kolsch over lunch, buying bottled versions of Atwater Pilsner, Hell Pale Lager, and Dunkel Dark Lager plus Stoney Creek Double Chocolate Ale and superlative Vanilla Porter (reviewed in Beer Index).

www.atwaterbeer.com

BULL & BUSH PUB

DENVER, COLORADO

Opened 1997, English-German-styled BULL & BUSH PUB inhabits a freestanding brown-striped barn-like building in Cherry Creek section of Denver. visited August ‘07. Covered outdoor deck, main and backroom dining sections, and quaint cushioned lounge area with hearth supplement left side copper-topped bar. Multitudinous Scotch-bourbon-liqueur-cognac selection pleases hard-liners while filling burgers-nachos-quisedillas complement brewer Gabe Moline’s well-rounded brews.

House fave, Man Beer IPA, placed woody-hopped dry rye against apple-cherry-nectar-pear sweetness and currant-spiked grapefruit bittering.

Styptic corn-oats-dried, diacetyl-vegetal-weakened, lemon-soured Happy Hop Pilsner, astringently alcoholic floral-fruited hay-dried Allgood Amber Ale and pallid fig-raisin-nut-blurred toffee-molasses-teased Big Ben Brown Ale appease mainstreamers.

Sour lemon-bruised white peppering contrasted banana-chipped clove-spiced plantain-dried vanilla-bubblegum-tinged Hail Brau Hefeweizen.

Highly intoxicating elixirs included lactose milk chocolate-y coffee-roasted tea-ridged Stonehenge Stout and candied apple-sweet, creamy caramel clustered, bourbon-cognac-finishing Release The Hounds Barleywine.

Luscious candi-sugared cinnamon-coriander-spiced orange-cherry-banana-bruised spice rum-licked36th Anniversary Belgian Amber was magnificent.

Beyond summer solstice, excellent Yule Fuel Winter Warmer rushed nutmeg overtures into cinnamon-sticked coriander and sugared fig expectancy.

www.bullandbush.com

PINT’S PUB

DENVER, COLORADO

A few streets south of Denver’s downtown, PINT’S PUB exquisitely replicates a neighborly British tavern and boasts 200 single malt Scotches (visited August ’07). Brit flags surround yellow-bricked red-windowed freestanding building and antiquated bright red phone booth fronts small outside deck at entrance.

A balcony provides extra seating above small bar area (with comfy hearth and countryside murals). An old-fashioned Triumph motorcycle caddy corners separate left side dining space.

Alongside fish & chips, sheepherder’s stew, and pukka tuna, quaffed perfectly re-created, peculiarly inventive, cask-conditioned English-styled ales.

Sweet Scotch-fizzed dry-hopped smoothie Phonebox Amber Lager soothed neophytes.

Better was floral green tea-embittered pumpernickel-sidled red apple-bound anise-licked pencil shavings-finishing Lancer IPA.

Fascinatingly fungi Dark Star Dark Ale plies ashen dried fruits, bitter walnut-Brazil nut, bruised lemon, and sour oaken cherry to black tea bittering.

Resinous mocha-dried chocolate-seeded iced tea-like Alchemy ESB isn’t bitterer but may be better.

Buttery whiskey-malted grassy-hopped rye-dried Airedale Pale Ale and resin-hopped cola-hazelnut-layered Baker’s chocolate-backed Gael Force Scottish Export Ale were fine alternatives.

www.pintspub.com

WYNKOOP BREWING

Wynkoop Brewing Company – Denver – Menus and pictures
DENVER, COLORADO

Had dinner at WYNKOOP BREWING, Colorado’s first brewpub (opened 1988 and closed 2015), at the time housing brew master Tom Larsen (taught the art of brewing by North Star’s Kyle Carstens), August ‘07. Across from Coors Field in Denver’s Union Station midtown section, Wynkoop has tremendous capacity and certain upscale elegance reinforced by beautiful wood bar, finely prepared dishes (venison medallions; ranch steaks; lamb; trout; burgers), embossed copper tile ceiling, and second floor billiard room.

Located inside grand JS Brown Mercantile building, Wynkoop’s glass-encased brew tanks served maize-dried yellow-orange-fruited Light Rail Ale, the sweeter Marzen-styled Railyard Ale (with its peppery-hopped tea-stained orange-burnt floral wheat setting), and airily carbolic cocoa-bitter chocolate-roasted stewed-pruned B3K Schwarzbier.

Perky German-styled, lemon-banana-clove-spiked, daintily hop-fizzed, vanilla-bubblegummy Wix A Wheat and cask-conditioned orange-peeled piney-hopped currant-dashed Monkey Fist IPA got heads up.

But thin vegetal-fig-vexed St. Charles ESB did not.

Peculiar jalapeno peppering girded earthen dried fruit murk of Patty’s Chili Beer (more approachable than Fort Collins-based Coopersmith’s similar Sigda’s Green Chili).

On the dark side, mildly creamy Splatz Porter tempered black chocolate entry with cherry puree, hazelnut, and cappuccino illusions.

Meanwhile, black chocolate and black cherry fronted fig-dried wood-charred walnut-tinged Sagebrush Stout.

www.wynkoop.com

NORTH STAR BREWERY

THE NORTH STAR RESTAURANT & BREWERY - CLOSED - 3200 Tejon St, Denver,  Colorado - Restaurants - Restaurant Reviews - Phone Number - Yelp
DENVER, COLORADO

Initially a dusty gold digger mining town, Denver’s booming cosmopolitan metropolis retains a pioneering frontier spirit. In ’96, visited Denver’s Pyramid Brewery’s Left Out Field Beer Garden at Colorado Rockies Safeco Field, Blue Moon Brewery, and Breckenridge Brewery. During ’03 at Great American Beer Fest, I found sundry hard-to-find brews from California’s EJ Phair and B.J.’s breweries; Oregon’s Pelican Brewery; Texas’ Saint Arnold; Tennessee’s Rocky River; Kansas’ Little Apple Brewery; Indiana’s Upland Brewery; Missouri’s Boulevard Brewery. Also, Georgia’s Terrapin Rye Pale Ale and Michigan’s No Disputin Putin Imperial Stout.

Finally did extensive 11-day Colorado brewpub tour, August ’07, with adoring wife, Karen. First stop, Denver’s NORTH STAR BREWERY, run by 10-year Wynkoop brew master Kyle Carstens, opened November ’06.

A small café cornering Tejon Street, its interior had oak furnishings, cozy Formica-countered mirror-backed bar (with small TV’s), and back dining area. Sliders, potato skins, salads, and sandwiches were served, but silver kettle brews such as Northside Negra Schwarzbier, Citrus Ale, and Pics Pale Ale were temporarily out.

Happily, Rye Red Ale efficiently contrasted honeyed cereal oat sweetness against dry-hopped grapefruit-soured bruised orange bittering.

Unfortunately, North Star closed its doors for business, 2008.

TWIN LAKES BREWING

NEWPORT, DELAWARE

As of April 2016, Twin Lakes moved to Newport, Delaware, and were getting set to reopen at its new location. Jack Wick will continue as headbrewer, but the ownership and farm house spot have changed. Below is an old review.

Though not open as of February ‘06 visitation, TWIN LAKES BREWING, located 5 miles west of Wilmington on an old Dupont Estate in Greenville, began selling keg versions of its three mainstay beers by November ’07 excursion. Though Cromwell’s Tavern (1 miles east) was temporarily out, found Twin Lakes brews at shaker-styled Buckley’s Tavern, a hearth-warmed garden-decked pub four miles northwest in Centreville.

Moderate-bodied Cascade-hopped Greenville Pale Ale retained piney grapefruit rind bitterness, dried tobacco spell, rye spicing, vegetal nuances and distant lemon-tangerine-cherry tinge while crisp Route 52 Pilsner placed lemony grapefruit-pineapple balm atop corn-sugared wheat-husk.

Dry-bodied Tweed’s Tavern Stout brought hop-charred barley roast to coffee embittered cocoa linger. Hadn’t tried other mainstays, Winterthur Wheat and Caesar Rodney Golden Ale, as of 2010.

www.twinlakesbrewingcompany.com

DOGFISH HEAD BREWERY – REHOBOTH BEACH

Image result for DOGFISH HEAD REHOBOTH Image result for DOGFISH HEAD REHOBOTH

REHOBOTH BEACH, DELAWARE

Year-round beach resort, Rehoboth Beach, with its one-mile boardwalk, featured sundry boutiques, galleries, gourmet restaurants, and renowned brewpub, DOGFISH HEAD BREWERY (open since ’95 with bottling plant in nearby Milton). Three blocks from the ocean, Dogfish Head was absolutely packed upon two-day November ’07 quest.

Using converted dairy tanks for brew kettles, this row house-styled restaurant-saloon had quaint hop-vined beer garden with side entrance leading to 25-seat right bar, mid-size dining space, convertible left stage, wood-fired stove, ceiling-hung canoe and loft level with rum, vodka, and gin distillery plus billiards tables. Manager Jason Weissberg presented two non-bottled brews for premise consumption.

Firstly, tangy orange-centered, grapefruit rind-soured, floral hop-embittered, candied dewy-malted Fed Ex Mild.

Then bourbon-burgundy-etched Baltic Porter, a superb full body, matched sticky wood-smoked tar-embittered molasses malts, pureed cherry-raisin-prune tartness and sweet whiskey whir to black chocolate-y French roast coffee finish. Bottled selections could be found in Beer Index.

During April 2016 dinner revisit, tried 2014-vintage 18% ABV version of Dogfish Head Raison D’Extra, a richly creamed pureed raisin elixir that gained a crystalline brandywine likeness above the prune-stewed chocolate sweetness and mild cognac elegance.

Brought the wife and dog to Dogfish Head January ’21 to taste seven more previously untried variants as night fell at the covered wood-tabled side patio.

Sessionable ‘super gose,’ Super Eight, combined dry tropical fruiting with Hawaiian sea-salted toasted quinoa herbal graining, bringing lemon-limed prickly pear, mango, boysenberry, blackberry, raspberry, elderberry and kiwi juices to the delicate surface.

‘Approachable sour ale,’ Sultan Of The Aviary, anchored demerara-sugared pineapple to oaken cherry and raspberry rhubarb tartness, leaving sharp cinnamon spicing and slight botanical florality in the recess.

Herbal black peppered lemon spicing and zesty orange whims crept thru Re-Gen-Ale, a complex saison with pithy lemongrass, sage and allspice illusions dotting the banana rum-sugared honeyed wheat spine.

Laidback mimosa-styled champagne spritzer, Sunday Feels, sparked peachy orange tartness by spritzy lemon-limed green grape esters.

Tropical low calorie IPA, Slightly Mighty, a flavorful (despite meager 4% ABV) monk-fruited moderation retained spritzy lemony grapefruit bluster, tangy pineapple-mango salting, mild coconut whims, latent gooseberry snips and crisp cucumber watering above a delicate barley base.

Lactic cocoa-powdered Porter Pounder sidled dried milk chocolate tartness with vanilla-creamed pistachio, pecan and almond sweetness with fine resolve.

Bittersweet dark chocolate glazed Scorcher Selector, a Jamaican-styled Export Stout utilizing vanillin Tonga ginger to upend its walnut-seared hop char (and resembling a molasses-sapped gingersnap cookie at times).

During November ’21 sojourn, re-revisited Dogfish Head, Rehoboth, on a chilly Sunday at noon, grabbing seats on the covered left side beer garden to eat delectable perogies and crab-corn chowder while enjoying eight previously untried brews.

Dry wet-grained lager, Snappers For Buttons, let corny pilsner malts surface next to orange blossom honeyed florality as its herbal-hopped lemon spritz provided snappy fizz.

‘Toasty’ amber lager, Binoculager, let nutty sunflower, pumpkin and flax seeding gain peated whiskey tones as well as orange-oiled tartness and delicate peppery herbage.

Sessionable English-style pale ale, Firefly, retained a buttery citrus spicing for guava pureed coconut palm nectar above mildly sweet Maris Otter malting.

Tart session sour, Whoa, That’s Tangy, let salty lemon liming influence its tropical passionfruit, gooseberry and naranjilla pucker.

Fruitful Berliner Weiss, Daily Serving: Pomegranate & Blackberry, brought Concord grape tannins to blackberry-seeded pomegranate juicing before sour cherry and cranberry tartness contrasted sweet grape soda spritz.

A soft-toned double dry-hopped collaboration with Trillium, Tru-Action IPA allowed subtle lemony orange-peeled grapefruit rind bittering and passive pineapple tanginess to receive sharp piney hop insistence above delicate floral-spiced pale malts.

Another Trillium IPA collab, murkily hazy golden Double Past Present Pretzel, placed limey mango, guava and pineapple tropicalia atop pretzel-salted multigrain breading.

Lactic nitrogenated milk stout, Nitrochargedturboblaster, plied dry cold-brewed coffee to tarry black chocolate nuttiness for a relaxing moderation.

www.dogfish.com