All posts by John Fortunato

BULL & BUSH PUB

DENVER, COLORADO

Opened 1997, English-German-styled BULL & BUSH PUB inhabits a freestanding brown-striped barn-like building in Cherry Creek section of Denver. visited August ‘07. Covered outdoor deck, main and backroom dining sections, and quaint cushioned lounge area with hearth supplement left side copper-topped bar. Multitudinous Scotch-bourbon-liqueur-cognac selection pleases hard-liners while filling burgers-nachos-quisedillas complement brewer Gabe Moline’s well-rounded brews.

House fave, Man Beer IPA, placed woody-hopped dry rye against apple-cherry-nectar-pear sweetness and currant-spiked grapefruit bittering.

Styptic corn-oats-dried, diacetyl-vegetal-weakened, lemon-soured Happy Hop Pilsner, astringently alcoholic floral-fruited hay-dried Allgood Amber Ale and pallid fig-raisin-nut-blurred toffee-molasses-teased Big Ben Brown Ale appease mainstreamers.

Sour lemon-bruised white peppering contrasted banana-chipped clove-spiced plantain-dried vanilla-bubblegum-tinged Hail Brau Hefeweizen.

Highly intoxicating elixirs included lactose milk chocolate-y coffee-roasted tea-ridged Stonehenge Stout and candied apple-sweet, creamy caramel clustered, bourbon-cognac-finishing Release The Hounds Barleywine.

Luscious candi-sugared cinnamon-coriander-spiced orange-cherry-banana-bruised spice rum-licked36th Anniversary Belgian Amber was magnificent.

Beyond summer solstice, excellent Yule Fuel Winter Warmer rushed nutmeg overtures into cinnamon-sticked coriander and sugared fig expectancy.

www.bullandbush.com

PINT’S PUB

DENVER, COLORADO

A few streets south of Denver’s downtown, PINT’S PUB exquisitely replicates a neighborly British tavern and boasts 200 single malt Scotches (visited August ’07). Brit flags surround yellow-bricked red-windowed freestanding building and antiquated bright red phone booth fronts small outside deck at entrance.

A balcony provides extra seating above small bar area (with comfy hearth and countryside murals). An old-fashioned Triumph motorcycle caddy corners separate left side dining space.

Alongside fish & chips, sheepherder’s stew, and pukka tuna, quaffed perfectly re-created, peculiarly inventive, cask-conditioned English-styled ales.

Sweet Scotch-fizzed dry-hopped smoothie Phonebox Amber Lager soothed neophytes.

Better was floral green tea-embittered pumpernickel-sidled red apple-bound anise-licked pencil shavings-finishing Lancer IPA.

Fascinatingly fungi Dark Star Dark Ale plies ashen dried fruits, bitter walnut-Brazil nut, bruised lemon, and sour oaken cherry to black tea bittering.

Resinous mocha-dried chocolate-seeded iced tea-like Alchemy ESB isn’t bitterer but may be better.

Buttery whiskey-malted grassy-hopped rye-dried Airedale Pale Ale and resin-hopped cola-hazelnut-layered Baker’s chocolate-backed Gael Force Scottish Export Ale were fine alternatives.

www.pintspub.com

WYNKOOP BREWING

Wynkoop Brewing Company – Denver – Menus and pictures DENVER, COLORADO Had dinner at WYNKOOP BREWING, Colorado’s first brewpub (opened 1988 and closed 2015), at the time housing brew master Tom Larsen (taught the art of brewing by North Star’s Kyle Carstens), August ‘07. Across from Coors Field in Denver’s Union Station midtown section, Wynkoop has tremendous capacity and certain upscale elegance reinforced by beautiful wood bar, finely prepared dishes (venison medallions; ranch steaks; lamb; trout; burgers), embossed copper tile ceiling, and second floor billiard room. Located inside grand JS Brown Mercantile building, Wynkoop’s glass-encased brew tanks served maize-dried yellow-orange-fruited Light Rail Ale, the sweeter Marzen-styled Railyard Ale (with its peppery-hopped tea-stained orange-burnt floral wheat setting), and airily carbolic cocoa-bitter chocolate-roasted stewed-pruned B3K Schwarzbier. Perky German-styled, lemon-banana-clove-spiked, daintily hop-fizzed, vanilla-bubblegummy Wix A Wheat and cask-conditioned orange-peeled piney-hopped currant-dashed Monkey Fist IPA got heads up. But thin vegetal-fig-vexed St. Charles ESB did not. Peculiar jalapeno peppering girded earthen dried fruit murk of Patty’s Chili Beer (more approachable than Fort Collins-based Coopersmith’s similar Sigda’s Green Chili). On the dark side, mildly creamy Splatz Porter tempered black chocolate entry with cherry puree, hazelnut, and cappuccino illusions. Meanwhile, black chocolate and black cherry fronted fig-dried wood-charred walnut-tinged Sagebrush Stout. www.wynkoop.com

NORTH STAR BREWERY

THE NORTH STAR RESTAURANT & BREWERY - CLOSED - 3200 Tejon St, Denver,  Colorado - Restaurants - Restaurant Reviews - Phone Number - Yelp DENVER, COLORADO Initially a dusty gold digger mining town, Denver's booming cosmopolitan metropolis retains a pioneering frontier spirit. In ’96, visited Denver's Pyramid Brewery’s Left Out Field Beer Garden at Colorado Rockies Safeco Field, Blue Moon Brewery, and Breckenridge Brewery. During ’03 at Great American Beer Fest, I found sundry hard-to-find brews from California’s EJ Phair and B.J.’s breweries; Oregon’s Pelican Brewery; Texas’ Saint Arnold; Tennessee’s Rocky River; Kansas’ Little Apple Brewery; Indiana’s Upland Brewery; Missouri’s Boulevard Brewery. Also, Georgia’s Terrapin Rye Pale Ale and Michigan’s No Disputin Putin Imperial Stout. Finally did extensive 11-day Colorado brewpub tour, August ’07, with adoring wife, Karen. First stop, Denver’s NORTH STAR BREWERY, run by 10-year Wynkoop brew master Kyle Carstens, opened November ’06. A small café cornering Tejon Street, its interior had oak furnishings, cozy Formica-countered mirror-backed bar (with small TV’s), and back dining area. Sliders, potato skins, salads, and sandwiches were served, but silver kettle brews such as Northside Negra Schwarzbier, Citrus Ale, and Pics Pale Ale were temporarily out. Happily, Rye Red Ale efficiently contrasted honeyed cereal oat sweetness against dry-hopped grapefruit-soured bruised orange bittering. Unfortunately, North Star closed its doors for business, 2008.

TWIN LAKES BREWING

NEWPORT, DELAWARE

As of April 2016, Twin Lakes moved to Newport, Delaware, and were getting set to reopen at its new location. Jack Wick will continue as headbrewer, but the ownership and farm house spot have changed. Below is an old review.

Though not open as of February ‘06 visitation, TWIN LAKES BREWING, located 5 miles west of Wilmington on an old Dupont Estate in Greenville, began selling keg versions of its three mainstay beers by November ’07 excursion. Though Cromwell’s Tavern (1 miles east) was temporarily out, found Twin Lakes brews at shaker-styled Buckley’s Tavern, a hearth-warmed garden-decked pub four miles northwest in Centreville.

Moderate-bodied Cascade-hopped Greenville Pale Ale retained piney grapefruit rind bitterness, dried tobacco spell, rye spicing, vegetal nuances and distant lemon-tangerine-cherry tinge while crisp Route 52 Pilsner placed lemony grapefruit-pineapple balm atop corn-sugared wheat-husk.

Dry-bodied Tweed’s Tavern Stout brought hop-charred barley roast to coffee embittered cocoa linger. Hadn't tried other mainstays, Winterthur Wheat and Caesar Rodney Golden Ale, as of 2010.

www.twinlakesbrewingcompany.com

DOGFISH HEAD BREWERY – REHOBOTH BEACH

Image result for DOGFISH HEAD REHOBOTH Image result for DOGFISH HEAD REHOBOTH REHOBOTH BEACH, DELAWARE Year-round beach resort, Rehoboth Beach, with its one-mile boardwalk, featured sundry boutiques, galleries, gourmet restaurants, and renowned brewpub, DOGFISH HEAD BREWERY (open since ’95 with bottling plant in nearby Milton). Three blocks from the ocean, Dogfish Head was absolutely packed upon two-day November ’07 quest. Using converted dairy tanks for brew kettles, this row house-styled restaurant-saloon had quaint hop-vined beer garden with side entrance leading to 25-seat right bar, mid-size dining space, convertible left stage, wood-fired stove, ceiling-hung canoe and loft level with rum, vodka, and gin distillery plus billiards tables. Manager Jason Weissberg presented two non-bottled brews for premise consumption. Firstly, tangy orange-centered, grapefruit rind-soured, floral hop-embittered, candied dewy-malted Fed Ex Mild. Then bourbon-burgundy-etched Baltic Porter, a superb full body, matched sticky wood-smoked tar-embittered molasses malts, pureed cherry-raisin-prune tartness and sweet whiskey whir to black chocolate-y French roast coffee finish. Bottled selections could be found in Beer Index. During April 2016 dinner revisit, tried 2014-vintage 18% ABV version of Dogfish Head Raison D'Extra, a richly creamed pureed raisin elixir that gained a crystalline brandywine likeness above the prune-stewed chocolate sweetness and mild cognac elegance. Brought the wife and dog to Dogfish Head January '21 to taste seven more previously untried variants as night fell at the covered wood-tabled side patio. Sessionable 'super gose,' Super Eight, combined dry tropical fruiting with Hawaiian sea-salted toasted quinoa herbal graining, bringing lemon-limed prickly pear, mango, boysenberry, blackberry, raspberry, elderberry and kiwi juices to the delicate surface. 'Approachable sour ale,' Sultan Of The Aviary, anchored demerara-sugared pineapple to oaken cherry and raspberry rhubarb tartness, leaving sharp cinnamon spicing and slight botanical florality in the recess. Herbal black peppered lemon spicing and zesty orange whims crept thru Re-Gen-Ale, a complex saison with pithy lemongrass, sage and allspice illusions dotting the banana rum-sugared honeyed wheat spine. Laidback mimosa-styled champagne spritzer, Sunday Feels, sparked peachy orange tartness by spritzy lemon-limed green grape esters. Tropical low calorie IPA, Slightly Mighty, a flavorful (despite meager 4% ABV) monk-fruited moderation retained spritzy lemony grapefruit bluster, tangy pineapple-mango salting, mild coconut whims, latent gooseberry snips and crisp cucumber watering above a delicate barley base. Lactic cocoa-powdered Porter Pounder sidled dried milk chocolate tartness with vanilla-creamed pistachio, pecan and almond sweetness with fine resolve. Bittersweet dark chocolate glazed Scorcher Selector, a Jamaican-styled Export Stout utilizing vanillin Tonga ginger to upend its walnut-seared hop char (and resembling a molasses-sapped gingersnap cookie at times). During November '21 sojourn, re-revisited Dogfish Head, Rehoboth, on a chilly Sunday at noon, grabbing seats on the covered left side beer garden to eat delectable perogies and crab-corn chowder while enjoying eight previously untried brews. Dry wet-grained lager, Snappers For Buttons, let corny pilsner malts surface next to orange blossom honeyed florality as its herbal-hopped lemon spritz provided snappy fizz. 'Toasty' amber lager, Binoculager, let nutty sunflower, pumpkin and flax seeding gain peated whiskey tones as well as orange-oiled tartness and delicate peppery herbage. Sessionable English-style pale ale, Firefly, retained a buttery citrus spicing for guava pureed coconut palm nectar above mildly sweet Maris Otter malting. Tart session sour, Whoa, That's Tangy, let salty lemon liming influence its tropical passionfruit, gooseberry and naranjilla pucker. Fruitful Berliner Weiss, Daily Serving: Pomegranate & Blackberry, brought Concord grape tannins to blackberry-seeded pomegranate juicing before sour cherry and cranberry tartness contrasted sweet grape soda spritz. A soft-toned double dry-hopped collaboration with Trillium, Tru-Action IPA allowed subtle lemony orange-peeled grapefruit rind bittering and passive pineapple tanginess to receive sharp piney hop insistence above delicate floral-spiced pale malts. Another Trillium IPA collab, murkily hazy golden Double Past Present Pretzel, placed limey mango, guava and pineapple tropicalia atop pretzel-salted multigrain breading. Lactic nitrogenated milk stout, Nitrochargedturboblaster, plied dry cold-brewed coffee to tarry black chocolate nuttiness for a relaxing moderation. www.dogfish.com

STEWART’S BREWING COMPANY

BEAR, DELAWARE South of Wilmington, inconspicuous town of Bear boasted sturdy blue-collar hangout, STEWART’S BREWING COMPANY, visited February ’06, November ’07, and August ‘08. In Governor’s Square Mall behind Mc Donald’s, its brick façade entrance opens to central bar sidled by right-left dining areas. Multi-televisions plus darts, video golf, and trivia contests provide sports bar atmosphere. Right-sided brick-enclosed brew kettles served cereal-grained woody-hopped citric-spiced softie Governor’s Golden Ale, dry red-orange-fruited pine-tinged India Pale Ale, sticky caramel-malted red apple-candied Irish Red Ale and meagerly dark-fruited crystal-malted date-fig-tinged Big Bear Amber Ale, February '06. Better were alcohol-smitten, piney hop-embittered, floral apple-orange-cherry-centered, brandy-candied Lockjaw Double IPA (propelled by grapefruit peel surge), biscuit-y sweet-corned raspberry-tart Wacky Wheat Ale, dry wood-smoked espresso-linked black coffee-like Pacific Coast Porter and sugary citric-tart lemon-curried alcohol-sharp Stumblin’ Monk Triple. November ’07 offerings included wood lacquered twig-leafed grapefruit rind-embittered Rocky Mountain IPA, pumpkin pie-crusted, cinnamon-allspice-clove-spiced, hop-tingled Mischief Night Pumpkin Ale and Band-aid-wafted, wood-smoked, tobacco-chewed, Belgian chocolate-sopped, black coffee-finishing Smoked Porter. Best bet: black chocolate-y hop-toasted nut-roasted coffee-beaned softie Highlander Stout. August ’08, enjoyed Maryland Crab Bisque after soaking up oaken vanilla-softened bourbon-blustered hop-roasted firewood-charred Bourbon Stout (with its black cherry, white grape and green raisin souring). For dessert, thoroughly enjoyed Cherry Dubbel, a Belgian-styled Abbey Hoffman Dark Strong Ale re-fermented with raspy sour cherries. Its smoothly medicinal cherry-ripened surge received candi-sugared cranberry, mulberry, and red grape tartness. www.stewartsbrewingcompany.com

IRON HILL BREWERY – WILMINGTON

WILMINGTON, DELAWARE A short drive East from Newark, headed to port town of Wilmington, February ‘06. Along the waterfront in large freestanding red brick building next to Big Kahuna and Joe’s Crab Shack is, in my opinion, the best IRON HILL BREWERY. Opened in 2002, its great Americana menu included succulent gumbo, cheese-thick French onion soup, and plentiful Cobb Salad. Brew tanks were staged left and multi-tiered and upstairs dining was available. Outdoor canvassed deck led to Industrial riverbank. Cedar bar served specialty-seasonal beers previously unfound at other Iron Hill brewpubs. Fizzy bitter-hopped Munich Dunkel offered cinnamon-clove snip to raisin-fig-date conflux. Dryly lactose Nitrogen Poured Pig Iron Porter merged black chocolate with espresso while delicately creamy Russian Imperial Stout juxtaposed soft cherry-berry conflux against burnt-toasted black coffee. Superfine Iron Hill Rauchbier, $16 per bottle, went well with dessert (see review in Beer Index). Acquainted myself with Iron Hill-Wilmington’s Brian Finn, one of the more affable and un-conceited brewmasters, during November ’07 Wilmington stopover. Quaffed four diverse libations. Dried plum, sugared fig, and dark cherry obliged earthen vegetal midst of lightly watered Altbier and pumpkin puree exhausted the herbal-hopped allspice-nutmeg-cardamom spicing and nutty caramel flicker backing moderate-bodied Pumpkin Ale. Better was well-rounded Hopkowski Double American Ale, coating bittersweet bruised orange, cherry puree, and stewed prune with luring chocolate-caramel malting to appease imminent candied medicinal warmth. Highest recommended goes to Bourbon Porter, the nitro-injected Pig Iron Porter offshoot aged in Four Roses whiskey barrels. Its pronounced bourbon-dried sweet whiskey entry garnishes chewy chocolate-vanilla-caramel malting plus cherry puree, sugar plum, syrupy liqueur, creamy éclair, hazelnut, and marshmallow illusions for perfect wintry nightcap. During August ’08 journey to University of Delaware, ate delicious salmon spring rolls and Mediterranean wrap alongside honeyed corn-malted lemon-bruised juniper-grapefruit-embittered white peppercorn-finishing Saison Belgian Farmhouse Ale. After lunch, quaffed washed-out banana-orange-licked clove-spiced lemon-wedged dry-hopped Hefeweizen (which sacrificed honeyed creaming for mere carbolic fizz). Finally got to revisit fantastic riverfront brewhouse again after Outer Banks voyage, July '18, taking seats outback at one of the aluminum-roofed metal-furnished tables . Most of this evening's previously untried fare leaned towards the light summery side. Delicate Witberry Witbier scurried tart raspberry passed spritzy orange-peeled lemon misting and wispy wheat sweetness. Mellow Watermelon Wit needed deeper coriander-spiced watermelon tartness and tangier mandarin orange subtlety to overcome herbal cellar funk. Zesty white-peppered lemon-juiced Mahalo, Apollo!, a hybrid Belgian wheat ale, utilized subtle lemongrass and passionfruit adjuncts to retain its sparkly understated wanderlust. Also on the pallidly fruitier side, approachable Mango IPA thrust forth with sweetly tanged mango essence before its bitter orange rind-infused hop pining ascended. Soapy farmhouse-desiccated Saison retained a cidery lemon souring and black-peppered musk that undermined its spicy orange tartness and sourdough malting. Perfectly centrist India Pale Ale, Crusher, let sharply bittersweet tropical fruiting come to the fore, loading pineapple-grapefruit-tangerine tanginess atop lightly pined grassy hop astringency and mild biscuit base. Better still, tropical New England-styled Chewy IPA brought sunshiny orange-peeled yellow grapefruit tanginess to crisply clean mineral graining and resinous pine hops. Piney orange rind moderately embittered Hopicana IPA, an otherwise sweet Orangina-like soda pop with tangible tangerine tang. Lemon-limed Citra IPA rallied with brisk orange, peach, mango and pineapple tanginess over lightly sugared pale malts. As a dusky nightcap, sharp citric hops endowed Honey Cash Hops, a West Coast-styled India Pale Ale with sun-glazed yellow grapefruit, orange rind and pineapple tang. During sweltering July 4th, 2019 visit, tried five more sound suds. Subtle spicy yellow fruiting consumed soft-toned Belgian pale ale, Skinny Blonde, leaving banana, lemon and mango illusions upon its funky Belgian yeast herbage. Lemon-candied raspberry rasp greeted light-bodied Witberry, blessing its stylish orange-peeled coriander sweetness with soap-stoned herbal wisps and delicate floral nuances. Lactic kettle-soured Watermelon You Lookin' At relegated its salted watermelon candied tartness with lemony melon rind snips and yogurt-like milking. Herbal lemon tartness contrasted creamy pale malt sugaring for Ore House IPA, plying grapefruit-peeled pine needling to the brisk finish. Citric-spiced piney bittering led Smash Series 10 IPA, a dry Eldorado-hopped medium body with frisky grapefruit, peach, orange and mango juicing coating its sugary pale malt spine. www.ironhillbrewery.com

IRON HILL BREWERY – NEWARK

Newark, DE - Iron Hill Brewery NEWARK, DELAWARE Took terse two day excursion to northern Delaware, February ‘06. At first stop, situated in the heart of historic colonial town, Newark, lies the original IRON HILL brewpub (the first of five within 50-mile radius). Amongst well-kept rustic red brick buildings, this University of Delaware hotspot only served beers I’d already reviewed at West Chester, Pennsylvania pub months earlier. Main Street deck welcomes patrons entering to prominent centralized cedar bar (with 4 TV’s). Rear dining available. Wood oven pizzas, brunch specials, and nifty appetizers went well with lighter brews. On drive back to Route 95, stopped in State Line Liquors, a great beer shop (with 400 choices) bordering Newark in Elkton, Maryland. Bought Great Divide Yeti Imperial Stout (and Oak Aged version), Heavyweight Saison-Spicy, Three Floyds Black Sun, Rogue Seahorse, and Lia Fail Stone of Destiny. www.ironhillbrewery.com

A1A ALEHOUSE

DAYTONA BEACH / ST. AUGUSTINE, FLORIDA St. Augustine’s A1A ALEHOUSE has a prominent spot across the waterfront with a panoramic view of Matanzas Bay from its second floor patio (visited April '04). Lasting 29 years until May 2024, A1A stopped brewing in 2017. Alongside New World cuisine, quaffed soapy wheat-husked King Street Light Lager (suiting indiscreet novices), soft-toned raspberry-seeded peach-melon-draped Raspberry Light Ale (befitting fruit lovers) and Cascade-hopped melon-mango-berry-induced Red Brick Ale (a fine sedation). Perfume-fruited spice-hopped Irish Red Lager tingled; English-styled citric-hopped Porpoise Point Pale Ale mingled; mildly caramelized mocha-sweet Bridge Of Lions Brown Ale seduced; and dry coffee-roasted maple-sapped nut-sharp A. Strange Stout tamed hearty thirsts. www.a1aaleworks.com

HOPS – DAYTONA BEACH

DAYTONA BEACH / ST. AUGUSTINE, FLORIDA

Got to visit Daytona’s bustling HOPS (across from famous NASCAR speedway) and provincial St. Augustine’s A1A Alehouse, April ‘04.

With nearly 100 locations in the United States, HOPS regularly brews the following: citric-teased wheat-backed bubblegum-like Clearwater Light; caramel-malted stone-fruited hop-sharp Lightning Bold Gold; tinny red-fruited Hammerhead Red; dry cocoa-malted porter-styled Alligator Ale.

Seasonal delight Flying Squirrel Nut Brown Ale bested these with its subtle coffee roast and hazelnut-chocolate confluence.

By 2008, HOPS was closed, but its affiliated brewery-restaurants in Colorado, Virginia, and North Carolina have thus far survived.

ROOSTERFISH BREWING

Rooster Fish Brewing Company CORNING / WATKINS GLEN, NEW YORK Along Watkins Glen’s main strip, stayed at rustic Watkins Glen Hotel’s beautifully renovated Seneca Suite with family July ‘05, imbibing nearby microbrewers’ Ithaca Pale Ale and Ithaca Nut Brown (reviewed in Beer Index) prior to watching sloshed Bad News Bears remake. Afterwards, hit Crooked Rooster across street. Now known as ROOSTERFISH, the small neighborhood joint’s beautiful wood carved mantle piece shelved liquor bottles galore, the ancient wood refrigeration unit contained bottled beers, and the original tin ceiling was intact above green walled interior. To the rear of back dining area sat smallish brewing system, which unfortunately, wasn’t operating at this juncture. But several local patrons pounding down a Bailey’s Irish Cream, Jameson Whiskey, and ½ pint Guinness concoction claimed Butternut Pale Ale and Black Walnut Ale go good with Southwest cuisine. Since then, I've consumed tapped versions of Scotch Ale and Hop Warrior during 2012 (reviewed in Beer Index). www.roosterfishbrewing.com