Horrid cabbage-sewage sniff off-putting for impossibly whitish yellow-hued clear bottled ‘malternative’ lightweight. Honeyed lemon tartness reveals hard-candied sugared cider scheme (thankfully superceding putrid waft), settling to fizzy lime soda delicateness with grassy hop backing. Brewery defunct: 2005.
All posts by John Fortunato
SAXER JACK FROST WINTER DOPPELBOCK
No-headed amber-hued medium-bodied Bavarian double bock opens with aromatic spiced-hop bittering, subtly sweet malt whiskey palate, and casual honey-soured wheat sway. Yet despite black cherry meander, sinister orange tang, and fine rose’ finish, lack of fully-fruited assertion decreases value. Brewery defunct: 2005.
SAXER DARK BOCK
Bodacious 7.2% alcohol strength leads the way for amazingly consistent, rust-hued, chocolate malt-flavored bock. Soft silky head and web-like texture provide champagne-like flow (minus nose-tingling carbonation). Sweet barley and candied mocha blend with bountiful floral bouquet to create interesting barleywine palate that’s neither too heavy nor overwhelming for gentler tastes. Brewery defunct: 2005.
SATAN RED ALE
Strong Lucifer-endorsed amber-clouded pale ale with lacey flesh-toned remnant and teensy yeast particles. Capacious citric-soured entry enjoins herbaceous medicinal spell, but phenol acidity and weak barley-hopped spine drag it down. Putrid orange, dry grapefruit, tart lemon, muted cherry, and ester-y grape engage latent cinnamon-clove spicing, giving way to barren fig souring.
SATAN GOLD ALE
Devilishly labeled gold-hued white-headed Belgian lacks discerning expressiveness of better competitors. Herbal-hopped coriander-clove cluster increases lemon-soured kumquat affectation as cinnamon-buttered wheat-backed candied malt overlay raises mandarin orange index.
(WILD DUCK) SASQUATCH STRONG ALE
In memory of Wild Duck brewmaster Glen Falconer, this aggressively spruce-hopped bitter gains piney notes by silky, yet bold, mocha-spiced finish. Brewery defunct: 2004.
SARANAC WINTER WASSAIL
Whimsical cinnamon-spiced treat perfect for post-breakfast (with a sticky bun). But like some misguided holiday ales, it loses focus. Instead of concentrating on cinnamon, ginger or nutmeg as the singular pronounced flavor, it dabbles in all and gets murky. Peculiar, yet daringly strong.
SARANAC WILD BERRY WHEAT
Pronounced fruity aroma, fizzy wheat foreground, robust grain assertion and invigorating citrus flow make this one of Saranac’s better ales.
SARANAC SUMMER WHEAT BEER
Refreshing amber-hued brew offers dark fruit aroma, gradually increasing lemon and spice insinuations, and strangely, a noticeable lack of wheat essence. Definitely one of Saranac’s finest, this unlikely ‘wheat’ beer sprinkles acidic citrus notes over perky hops and lively carbonation for crisp thirst quencher perfect for pool parties and beachcombers.
SARANAC STOUT (2001 LIMITED EDITION)
Chewy autumnal stout with dry malt sweetness, maple influence and blackened mocha singe. Stove-burnt coffee bitterness and chocolate cookie thickness provide further thirst-craving full-bodied richness. Dark caramel shadows oats-flaked sourdough follow-through. Not as creamy or memorable at the finish as most first class stouts, but fine nonetheless.
SARANAC STOUT
Artificially sweetened coffee palate, chalky cocoa follow-up and chewy chocolate spell depleted by sharp astringency as well as watery flow. Light caramel dusting at sulky finish fades out. A tepid stout lacking richness and complexity.
SARANAC SEASON’S BEST NUT BROWN LAGER
Refreshingly sweet aroma, sharp fruited malting and nut-grained harshness consume chocolate-roasted front end. But dainty hop moderation, cigarette tobacco dryness and phenol cherry souring spoiled by murky bitter tea finish.