Dizzying copper-hued, tan eggshell-headed, floral-hopped seasonal can’t decide whether to envelop its squalid honeyed malt cusp with ester-y cherry quip or to mediate its candied caramel slurp with tepid almond-chestnut roast. An off-dry harsh metallic astringency lowers its earthy grain potential.
All posts by John Fortunato
SARANAC ROGGEN BOCK
Fine German-styled rye lager counters cracked wheat sweetness with dry fig-plum-walnut dryness. Marble rye malting and bittersweet prune swoon lead to dour sour grape finish. Though lacking alcohol binge of more assertive bocks, moldy fruit moistness and vegetative earth tones add to its resolute peculiarity.
SARANAC PUMPKIN ALE
Capricious amber-cleared medium-bodied seasonal brings tantalizing pumpkin pie crusting, molasses-soaked allspice-clove-nutmeg spicing and teasing cinnamon apple nuance to hop-fizzed astringency. Syrupy cherry soda sweetness and soured citric tinge outdistance underlying vanilla dab. ’09 re-tasting: vegetal gourd-squash astringency relegated molasses malt temperament. ’11 re-tasting: honeyed cinnamon-nutmeg spicing and pumpkin pie sweetness bettered past versions. ’13 re-tasting: pumpkin pie-spiced nutmeg sweetness stood out contrasting gourd-backed hop astringency. On tap at Biggie’s ’17, ginger-leafed pumpkin pie sweetness picks up lemony carbolic spritz and light cinnamon-toasted nutmeg and allspice seasoning, but flavor profile ultimately drifts.
SARANAC POMEGRANATE WHEAT
Likable ’07 limited edition gold-hazed amber uses pomegranate juice as catalyst to bring out slyly bittersweet lemony blueberry-boysenberry-juniper tartness above wheat-cracked honeyed oats spine. Ripe peach-apricot-cherry tang and juicy orange-tangerine pliability add auxiliary luster. Arguably as fine as Shmaltz’s He’brew Pomegranate Ale tasted one week before.
SARANAC PILSENER
Piquant Cascade hop dryness, reserved wheat wisp and mineral water crispness embrace light-bodied glee as muted fruit aroma confirms orange, tangerine and apricot tang imbuing barest spicy twang.
SARANAC PALE ALE
Astringent English-styled pale ale with fruity thrust, toasted nuttiness and candied caramel malt pleasantry in need of punch, bite and finish. Why does Saranac always lack that extra ‘something’ to put them over the top?
SARANAC OCTOBERFEST LAGER
Mild Saaz-hopped citrus bitterness takes hold as Scotch malt dryness hits fragile wheat backbone. Cedar and red fruit nuances lean on murky grain finish drowned out by minor phenol astringency and watery resolve.
SARANAC NUT BROWN ALE
Only a hint of undistinguished malt sweetness shines through bland, inefficient nut brown. Neither dark nor heavy enough, and lacking nutty assertiveness.
SARANAC MOUNTAIN BERRY ALE (LIMITED RELEASE 2002)
Reddish-amber fruit ale converges blackberry-blueberry-raspberry sweetness with increasing hop-fizzed bitterness that mutes supposed honey nectar influence. Dank grains weaken unresolved, meek finish.
SARANAC MOUNTAIN BERRY ALE
Snazzy refreshment ferments honey and fruit juices without becoming too sweet. Soft grain bitterness settles in well. Problem: too difficult to pick out berry luster.
SARANAC MOCHA STOUT
Strong vanilla-chocolate ice cream frontage lavishes well-detailed burnt coffee roast, infiltrating caramelized mocha latte midst with thick mocha frosting. Maple sugared recess counters powdered cocoa souring to malted milk finish for creamy dessert alternative.
SARANAC MARZENBIER
Weak German-styled lager retains sullen malt balm as diacetyl mouthfeel, cardboard midst and dead end citrus slide mire dank soapy finish. A stinker!