Bottled in ’96, consumed in 2002, idiomatic 10-month-aged full-bodied lager warms like a spectacular dessert treat, bringing ripe cherry overtones and dry plum intimacy to its capacious chocolate liqueur center. Sweet raisin and sour prune juxtaposing heavy cream finish catapults prune-hued Swiss variant to exalted grandeur its Austrian version also maintains. Barleywine, burgundy, and brandy lovers should indulge in its complexity.
SAMBADORO LAGER
Coarse peppery hop fizz depletes corn sugar sweetness, spicy lemon tinge, and wood burnt singe of vapid pale body. Soapy finish reaches nasty sulfuric heights.
SALVA VIDA PILSNER
Sweet sourdough mouthfeel, carbolic lemon Seltzer tingle, mandarin orange trace, and salty bottom outline extremely dry light pils. But inefficient swill water finish disturbs brisk hop kick.
SALOPIAN ENTIRE BUTT ENGLISH PORTER
Subtle syrupy yeast opening, milky chocolate malt follow-up, and penetrating mocha-nutty dryness anoint full-bodied bottle-conditioned wood-smoked perfection. Spicy hops embitter burnt caramel center and dry port remnant, remaining consistently creamy yet effervescently mild.
SAKU ESTONIAN PORTER
Murkily defined Baltic porter retains acrid dark chocolate malting over soured prune-raisin subsidy. Milky dark amber hue result of ‘mellow’ caramel malting, sweet honeyed molasses dip and mild fudgy creaminess. Barley-roasted mocha mildness puts this closer to brown ale than heavier porter. Too light and watery up-front, though medicinal-to-chocolate liqueur finish retains richness. More peculiar than unique.
SAKU ESTONIAN PILSNER
Golden complexion, aromatic hop jab and sweet rice caking put moderate-bodied Estonian closer to Asian brew like Asahi rather than typical pungent Eastern European fare. Unexpected prune juice ascent accommodates mellow grain-roasted caramel malting at refined finish.
SAINT SYLVESTRE’S FLANDER’S WINTER ALE
Intriguing rust-clouded beige-headed barleywine-styled winter brew (a.k.a Biere De Noel) enhanced by peculiar spiced nuttiness and well-hopped dried fruiting. Heavy caramel malting provides firm foundation for smoothed-out whiskey finish.
ST. STAN’S RED SKY ALE
Funky sour malt-stricken, clear-bodied, eggshell-headed amber needs better caramel roast, deeper spiced cherry perk, and richer nutty bottom. Happily, sweet yeast fragrance, crisp hop-embellished finish, and red grape wisp rout diacetyl absorption, allowing blue-collar drinkers easy access.
ST. STAN’S AMBER ALE
Chestnut-hued, mocha-scented, spice-hopped medium body maintains inviting crystal malt sweetness leveraged slightly by acidic nut finish and cursory grain smudge.
ST. SIXTUS WESTVLETEREN 12 TRAPPIST ALE
Extraordinary mahogany-hued Trappist ale features curious turpentine-like caramel malt entry, brandy-soaked maraschino cherry theme, and brutish raisin-prune-plum scheme above dewy peat moss. Creamy molasses consistency, velvety Muscat grape mellowing, and candi-sugared nutmeg-cinnamon spicing subsume alcohol warmth. Strong medicinal finish carries forth highly complex offering.
ST. SEBASTIAN GOLDEN BELGIAN ALE
Cloudy orange complexion, buttery cream texture, and reflexive citrus deflection decorate up-front contour of musty yeast-addled tripel. At midst, quaint pepper-spiced hop bitterness counters light fruited sweetness perfectly suited as crossover fodder for milder tastes.
ST. SEBASTIAN DARK BELGIAN ALE
In 16-ounce brown jug, top fermented Abbey ale works inviting caramel-candied apple sweetness into sugared raisin-fig continuance, floral citric-coriander grove, and buttery malt woo. Subtle barley insinuation lacks determination as musty brown-sugared molasses finish fades quickly. Better than average; substandard and watery for Belgian ale.