Well-balanced Belgian farmhouse ale in 11.2-ounce can brings spicy candi-sugared yeast sweetness and floral-perfumed fruiting to herbal lemon souring, dry white-peppered respite and straw-grassed barnyard acridity. Tangy orange, peach, apple and tangerine tones pick up tart banana-clove whim. Emblematic citric-spiced flavor profile retains enduring sourdough malt richness its American competitors sometimes lack.
EDDIE’S ROADHOUSE
WARWICK, NEW YORK
Filled with Old World charm and nestled in the hilly rural refuge of Warwick 30 miles northwest of New York City, EDDIE’S ROADHOUSE TAVERN & GRILLE may be a hike for city slickers, but it’s definitely worth the trip. Between town fairs, open-air concerts, cool fishing spots, blueberry fields and the annual Applefest, Warwick’s a busy countryside community with a four-screen drive-in theatre to boot. And when the quaint brown and tan-fronted Roadhouse opened in November, 2010, the diminutive Main Street gastropub quickly became a travel destination.
A rustic hardwood-floored saloon with exposed ceiling ducts and framed black and white portraits (of Willie Nelson, Steven Tyler and Jack Nicholson), its fabulous upscale pub fare (appetizers, burgers, steaks, chicken and ribs) suits the swiftly rotating draught selections. At the red brick-walled left side bar are twenty stools, sixteen tap handles and choice spirits. Two windowed and three right side corian-topped tables comfortably seat lunch and dinner patrons.
During my initial August 2015 jaunt, Eddie’s gets packed by 5:30 on a sunshiny Saturday evening. Along with two newfound brews, my wife and I share the big, beefy Roadhouse Burger (with mushrooms) and On The Flat (a rewarding flat-breaded app with eggplant, hummus and olive tapenade dips).
Owner Eddie Cullari stops by before the crowd rushes in to offer some background.
“I grew up on Ballantine IPA in the ’60s. So i got used to the richer, heavier beers and when that IPA alcohol bite went away, I really got into serious beers,” he shares before adding, “Drinking craft was a no-brainer. Friends would buy a 6-pack for $4 in the past and they couldn’t understand why I’d pay $4 for one swing-topped import.”
Though previously untried Lost Nation Mosaic IPA, Against The Grain Jacque Trappe and Clown Shoes Crasher In The Rye Imperial Stout were gone by my arrival, two fruitful summertime brews got quaffed instead. Soft grapefruit rind-embittered passionfruit-derived Avery Liliko’i Kepolo and briskly citric-hopped Other Half Forever Ever IPA were damn near perfect stylistic representatives (check Beer Index for full reviews).
Just down the street from Eddie’s Roadhouse, CRAFT BEER CELLAR opened October 15, 2014. Its earth-toned stone front, brick red interior, exposed pipes, high ceiling, clean shelves and Brooklyn Brewery banner give the place a certain lucidity. Twenty tap handles fill growlers to go and a serious-minded bottle and can selection (of rarities and well-selected American and international fare) will please any beer enthusiast.
AVERY LILIKO’I KEPOLO WITBIER
On tap at Eddie’s Roadhouse, soft-toned witbier benefits from elegant lemony passionfruit tartness of exotic liliko’i tropicalia. Dry lemon-limed grapefruit tang gains brisk limestoned citric pucker. Mildly creamed crystal malting provides latent white-sugared contrast. Tertiary pineapple, peach, papaya, grains of paradise and mango undertones tingle the sleek citric-hopped bittering. In the can, “spices and passionfruit” bring ‘tropical island flare’ to lemon-juiced mandarin orange, tangerine and gooseberry illusions.
OEC ARTISTA ZYNERGIA: ARTAMAS
Perplexingly newfangled smoked saison brings sour brettanomyces leathering to oak-seared Band-aid astringency and lemony cider-sharpened oaken cherry tartness. Light lemon vinaigrette acidity and recessive lemongrass tinge reinforce lactic souring.
JACKIE O’S BOURBON-AGED BRICK-KILN BARLEYWINE
Truly decadent barleywine (11.5% ABV) blends Buffalo Trace and kiln-bricked Willett bourbon barrel aging, comparing favorably to Jackie O’s less silken smooth, yet still excellent, Woodford-aged Wood Ya Honey. Sweet bourbon chocolate creaming proves resilient while compact dried fruiting and maple molasses syruping gain prominence at the heavily caramelized butterscotch midst. Black cherry-pureed raisin, plum and prune illusions sit alongside coconut-toasted almond, praline, pecan and chestnut pleasantries. Vanilla, marshmallow and cotton candy undertones further sweeten the distinct bourbon .
JACKIE O’S WOOD YA HONEY BOURBON-AGED WHEAT WINE
Charismatic wheat wine aged in Woodford Reserve bourbon barrels (12% ABV) loads chewy butterscotch-candied caramel malt creaming and sugary dried fruiting atop honeyed wheat spine. Woodford bourbon deepens oaken vanilla, maple molasses, spiced rum and sticky anise overtones. Rich fruity center gathers bruised cherry, pureed raisin, stewed prune and sugared fig sweetness while tertiary pineapple, peach, navel orange, nectarine, cantaloupe, red grape and banana licks penetrate the surface afterwards.
CLOWN SHOES PIERRE FERRAND BILLIONAIRE ENGLISH-STYLE BARLEYWINE
Outstanding 4th anniversary (2015) barleywine, aged in cognac, abounds with velvety brandy-wined candi sugar and rum-spiced mocha fruiting. Chocolate-covered cherry center sweetens creamy cognac essence as well as honeyed vanilla caking and maple-sapped molasses syruping. Subsidiary bruised cherry, syrupy peach, brown banana, nectarine and apricot illusions deepen its enduring complexities.
STONE FARKING WHEATON WOOTSTOUT – 2015
On tap at Ambulance, magnificent ‘third version’ ups the bourbon-barrel aging by winningly mixing ’14 vintage with newer batch. Resilient bourbon chocolate spicing, sugary vanilla creaming and sweet cocoa dalliance pickup thriving rye-toasted pecan adjunct. Chocolate brownie, butterscotch rum, toffee fudge and molasses cookie illusions gain strength. Whiskey-soaked raisin and cherry wisps glimmer behind velvety bourbon finish.
GREAT ADIRONDACK WHITEFACE BLACK DIAMOND STOUT
On tap at Ambulance, creamy dark-roasted black patent malting guards bittersweet black coffee and dark chocolate tones. Delicate peat-smoked soiling, charred hop astringency and wispy soy saucing underlie nut-singed mocha finish.
(B. NEKTAR) NECROMANGOCON
Pleasingly moderate honey-wined mead allows sweet ‘n sour mango juicing to pick up light black pepper burn and pickled dill spicing to contrast fruity malt sugaring. Mild strawberry rhubarb, red cherry, green grape and boysenberry tartness softly impact delicate mango adjunct. Friendly malt beverage crossover will suit fruity ale lovers as well as seasoned mead quaffers.
(B. NEKTAR) BLACK FANG
Summery honey wine utilizes blackberry and clove adjuncts for sweet fruit-spiced entry. Sharp clove spicing gains light cinnamon burn to enhance soda pop-sugared blackberry compote seduction. Brisk orange zest as well as tart blueberry, boysenberry, raspberry, oaken cherry and red grape rasp underscores blackberry puree finish.
CAPTAIN LAWRENCE SEEKING ALPHA TRIPLE IPA
Exquisitely designed hyper-IPA never overloads the floral-perfumed citrus hops or resinous pine oiling, instead allowing its sweet cookie dough yeast to deepen the fruit-spiced honey malt expanse without disappointing bitterer hop heads. Sweet orange-peeled lemon zest brightens grapefruit, pineapple and mango tropicalia as well as apple, peach and tangerine subsidy. Clean vodka-nipped crystalline water provides brisk crisping.
