MC NEILL’S IMPERIAL I.P.A.

At New York Craft Beer Freaktoberfest ’10, easy-to-drink gold-hazed double IPA retained smooth medium-bodied moderation only fierce hop-heads could deride. Soft cereal-grained chestnut-almond nuttiness centers floral-hopped grapefruit bittering and spicy apple cobbler sweetness. Pineapple, peach, and cherry illusions fill backend. Serve as crossover to lighter ale guzzlers.

SHMALTZ CONEY ISLAND FREAKTOBERFEST

On tap, wayward ruddy magenta amber lager offers herbal dried fruiting to cereal-grained toasted malting. Orange-dried cherry-fig-date conflux perks up diminutive almond-buttered chestnut roast. Puzzling flavor mix is as freaky as beer’s circus-inspired moniker. In bottle, ubiquitous gin-soaked caraway-seeded honeyed wheat tapestry provides funky promenade for bodacious limestone-salted lemon-bruised grapefruit bittering and stewed prune souring, upping its rating.

ROGUE SOMER ORANGE HONEY ALE

Understated straw-hazed pearly-headed summer ale (known previously as tap-only Eugene City Tracktown Honey Orange) brings subtle candi-sugared fruiting and herbal spicing to paper-thin oats spine. Mild wildflower-honeyed orange peel, lemon meringue, coriander, chamomile and menthol adjuncts brighten salty peppered grassy hop stead. Tertiary watermelon-soured tartness and tranquil lime spritz complete sunny light-bodied mood.

Somer Orange Beer, a Honey Pale Wheat Ale for Summer

GOOSE ISLAND 312 URBAN WHEAT ALE

Soft yellow-fruited Cascade-hopped light-bodied American wheat ale makes for refreshingly clean lawnmower fare. Lemony lime zest goes under the radar, herbal whim is nebulous and delicate white-breaded spine falters on first tasting. Yellow grape, green apple, and white peach illusions are barely audible. On ’13 re-tasting: Summery lemon zest briskness lingered better over sweeter glass-sugared honeyed wheat spine. On tap at Tommy Fox’s, lemony orange peel tartness picked up herbal perfumed whim.

(WILLIAMS BROTHERS) SCOTTISH JOKER I.P.A.

Smoother, less fruity, and less wood-embittered than most American-styled IPA’s, but quite rewarding as a simpler moderate-bodied changeup. Resinous earthen hop bittering comes to the fore, then fades abruptly as tangy orange-candied apricot-apple-pineapple mildness upends lemony grapefruit zest to toasted bread spine. Chewy honeyed malts underscore thin fruiting. Serve as crossover to lighter ale thirsts who’ll appreciate its understated nature.