All posts by John Fortunato

SEBAGO BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs

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PORTLAND, MAINE

Two blocks down from blue-collar Gritty Mc Duff’s was quaintly pristine SEBAGO BREWING COMPANY (with three newer locations in Kennebunk, Scarborough, and Gorham), visited October ‘05. A neon light sign, arched windows, and side deck lead to entrance with comfy waiting area. Interior features neuvo design, pine-stained walls, neo-Classical columns, and a bar (with twin TV’s) overlooking Middle Street. Menu contained sandwiches, burgers, wraps, pasta, and seafood.

Quaffed fizzy prickly-tongued Saaz-hopped leather-backed straw-dried Northern Light Ale, punctual red-fruited spice-tingled hop-embittered Frye’s Leap IPA, and nutty tea-like maple-hinted malt-spiced Boathouse Brown Ale, for openers.

Resinous chocolate-roasted cocoa-puffed nut-dried Retro Porter went nice with chocolate dessert. Caramel nut-spiced Slick Nick Winter Ale proved seasonally appropriate.

Bottled beers brewed in basement area and brought home for consumption were Sebago Bass Akwards Berry Blue, Sebago Frye’s Leap IPA, Sebago Hefe-Weizen, Sebago Lake Trout Stout, and Sebago Runaround Red (reviewed in Beer Index).

www.sebagobrewing.com

GRITTY MC DUFF’S

United States Brewpubs

GRITTY MC DUFFSPORTLAND, MAINE

Portal to the northernmost Atlantic State, this hilly fishing village remains a time-honored outdoorsman paradise. I originally discovered several decent Gritty Mc Duff’s brews up there during daily excursion from Portsmouth base in March ’02. Priot to the trip, I’d already reviewed a few Sea Dog, Shipyard, Geary, and Belgian-styled Allagash brews beforehand (check Beer Index).

In October ’05, discovered fabulous RSVB on Forest Avenue, scoring Maine brews by Sheepscott, Bar Harbor, Atlantic, Mc Govern’s, Carrabassett, Sebago, and Casco Bay.

But my first stop on rainy autumn ’05 eve, GRITTY MC DUFF’S, located one block up from the wharf situated in historic ‘Old Port’ district, proved equally rewarding. 

Beginning in ’88 as one of America’s first brewpubs, Gritty’s expanded in ’95 with a second bar in nearby Freeport, and recently added a third in Lewiston.

Opening to a bar lined with white novelty mugs that served on both sides, the red-brick Portland-based pub had right side dining, back porch patio seating, wooden tables-chairs, plus downstairs bar, rear kitchen, and brew tanks.

Pub chow included recommended marinated lamb. Tried nutty tingly-hopped mild ale Best Brown, nitro-injected citric-hopped phenol-spiced Halloween Ale, and mellow red-fruited bitter Pale Ale alongside lamb.

Buttery floral-citric English-styled Bitter was on the mark for hop-heads.

Durable nut-roasted, black coffee-enriched Black Fly Stout offered robust change of pace. 

Seasonals to look for in future include Vacationland Summer Ale, Christmas Ale, Raspberry Wheat Ale, and Scottish Ale.

www.grittys.com

BOOTLEGGERS BREWPUB

United States Brewpubs

PLATTSBURGH, NEW YORK

Open since ’97, Canadian-bordered BOOTLEGGERS BREWPUB sat atop a huge game room on the second floor of a connected hotel visited 2004, then closed down in 2006. Upon entering, hand-carved wood bar area and brew tanks are to the right while convenient TV screens adorn the Southwestern styled dining area. Design pizzas, burgers, and appetizers are served in contemporary ‘old world’ atmosphere, with antique registers, music boxes, phones, and memorabilia strewn about. Hop-embittered corn-sugared wheat-sweetened Easy Blond Ale, soapy wheat-honeyed Canada Goose Pale Ale, unassumingly diacetyl Cardinal Red Ale, buttery walnut Three Nut Brown Ale, and dryly solvent-like berry-soured Adirondack Blueberry Ale were casually light-bodied but somewhat tepid.

THE CHURCH BREW WORKS

United States Brewpubs

PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA

Industrial ‘Steel City’ is largest inland port, connecting Allegheny and Monongahela waterways with the Ohio River. Initially visited red brick macrobrew mainstay Pittsburgh Brewing Company (Iron City Beer/ I.C. Light) and vital microbrewery Pennsylvania Brewery, December ’03.

Adjacent to Pittsburgh Brewing in the Lawrenceville section was most intriguing THE CHURCH BREW WORKS. Converted from St. John’s Church to a detailed brewpub, The Church had unique altar vats, stain glass windows, Douglas fir floors, an outdoor rectory patio, and exemplary food.

Brews consumed on afternoon sojourn with family included maize-dried pumpernickel-spiced citric-soured barnyard-wafted Celestial Gold; perfumed hop-spiced caramel-malted citric-quince-embittered Pipe Organ Pale Ale; sedate pecan-buttered vanilla-chocolate-y chicory-dabbed Pious Monk Dunkel; bittersweet chocolate-almond-tinged dry body Bell Tower Brown Ale; and delicately lingering mocha-cocoa embittered Lawrenceville Pride.

During August ’06 revisit, ate onion soup and cod sandwich while quaffing off-dry sourdough-buttered banana-clove-tingled Heavenly Hefeweizen, lemony tart grassy-bottomed lightweight Belgian Half Wit, soft whiskey-fronted apple-fig acerbity English Old Ale, and dusky milk chocolate-y walnut-chestnut-centered oat-toasted malt-smoked Blast Furnace Stout.

Best bet: seasonal cask-conditioned Burly Friar Barleywine, with its solemn bruised cherry, overripe banana, pureed raisin, and pecan-butterscotch illusions gliding to surefire brandy-sherry finish.

www.churchbrew.com

At Thornburg Bridge, fine restaurant-brewery Sharp Edge had great Belgian draft selection, classy microbrews, and lavish imports. Got to try several Belgian Wits during December ’03 jaunt, but dinner was out of the question because it was so packed there was a two-hour wait. So I took family to nearby burger joint.

www.sharpedgebeer.com

STREETS OF NEW YORK

United States Brewpubs

PHOENIX, ARIZONA

Noteworthy Italian Restaurant, STREETS OF NEW YORK, featured fine cuisine and two tapped beers from same-named Tempe-based brewpub, January ‘05. Bavarian Hefeweizen had prickly hopped wheat-soured clove-banana moderation and Big Apple Red’s initial hop-spiced mocha malting tethered raisin-grapefruit innuendo. Brewing operations have since closed.

SUN UP BREWING

United States Brewpubs

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PHOENIX, ARIZONA

In the Salt River Valley desert below Cave Creek Mountain lies the city of Phoenix, a thriving pastoral southwest getaway and a peculiar cosmopolitan cowboy canyon – visited January ’05. I’d just gotten off a plane from New York with my wife, Karen, when I ventured to SONORA BREWHOUSE (currently known as SUN UP BREWHOUSE), a “charmingly intimate neighborhood” pub.

Open since ’96, the freestanding brewery (five miles from Phoenix Airport) had brick-walled central bar, outdoor patio, right side dining (Mexican food, pizza, sandwiches, entrees), and glass-encased brew tanks that served German immigrant brewer Uwe Boer’s exquisite suds.

Mildly phenol, lemon-spiced, unfiltered softie Hefeweizen, soft-watered sour-fruited malt-spiced Desert Ale, and subtle biscuit-baked, grapefruit-peeled, lemon rind-embittered Kolsch-styled Top Down Ale (perhaps Sonora’s only bottled brew) provided moderate-bodied safety.

True hopheads should discover tersely hop-bitten, orange peel-soured, crystal-malt-sugared IPA, bittersweet orange-tangerine-fruited, sharply-hopped Double Trouble IPA, and citric piney-hopped Burning Bird Pale Ale.

‘Extreme’ Cask Conditioned Double Trouble IPA (with its buttery fruit-looped resolve and everlasting spruce finish), black cherry-licked cedar-burnt coffee-roasted Midnight Porter, and cherry-prompted Cognac-warmed Barleywine were truly stupendous.

www.sunupbrewing.com

NODDING HEAD BREWERY

United States Brewpubs

Join the Happy Hour at Nodding Head Brewery in Philadelphia, PA 19102
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

Located in downtown Philly on tucked-in Sansom Street, NODDING HEAD BREWERY lies atop an oyster restaurant on the second floor and was initially visited December ’04. Glass-encased bobble-head dolls decorate the quaint upstairs pub while its beautiful wood-carved bar and plate glass protected brew tanks are to the left upon entering. A separate dining space behind the bar offers privacy away from the three upholstered banquettes, five wooden pews and café tables to the right of the bar.

Showing off fine stylistic diversity on tap, lighter fare included tart lemon peel-sharpened, perfume-hopped, dry-spiced pale ale BPA, tart lemon-candied 700 Level Ale, and raw-honeyed tea-like sedation 60 Shilling Scottish Amber. Earthen coffee-roasted, cola-nutty, English-styled Grog leaned to the mild side as well.

Emphatic fig-sugared, orange-bruised, dark-spiced Sledwrecker and Belgian-styled brown ale Tart (with its tannic grape acidity and unripe prune souring) were foremost thickest.

On July ’07 revisit, hearty spare rib platter, cold cut-centered olive salad-mixed Muffaletta, and fine appetizers went well with light bodied fare such as musky, ultra-dry, wheat-husked, citric-laden, lemongrass-rosemary-ginger-peppered peculiarity Monkey Knife Fight Blonde Lager and leathery raspberry-peach-tart, green apple-soured, lemon-bitten, Woodruff syrupy Berliner Weisse.

Way better was superb Summit Double IPA, which plugged advertised tangerine essence into spruce-malted apple-pear-peach tang and tropical kiwi-papaya twist (offset by bitter bark-like hops).

During one-hour September ’07 saunter, quaffed elegant Belgian yeast-candied, banana-clove-sweetened, lemony grapefruit-recessed, peppery-hopped, buckwheat-backed O-Tay Golden Ale and intensely wood-lacquered, pine-needled, grapefruit-embittered, juniper-rosemary-thyme-tinged Prudence Pale Ale (boasting caramel apple upsurge).

Still one of my favorite Philadelphia hotspots, the wife and I stopped by once more on January 2nd, 2012. Surprisingly, I’d learn on this trip that Samuel Adams had an extract brewhouse at this same location for a decade beforehand.

As we go past the large glass-encased bobble-head doll collection greeting visitors walking up the cramped staircase, we settle at a cafe table next to the bar. This time, I’d get a few moments with Nodding Head’s master craftsman.

Brewer Gordon Grubb took the reins after assisting original meister, Brandon Greenwood (currently of Mike’s Hard Lemonade), settling in as head brewer after ’02. Growing up in the local Philly suburbs, the 44-year-old craftsman restored antiques before getting a home brew kit and joining the American Brewers Guild.

Grubb’s expanded into sour ales and ‘big beers,’ but his approachable year-round fare always retains a perfectly seamless hop-malt balance. One of his best and favorite beers, the wintry-spiced Sledwrecker, glides sugared fig into bruised orange tartness. In a few weeks, a sixtel of Eisbock will be readied, but it’ll finish within hours. Peculiarly, he concocted a so-called sour barleywine, but the Mummer’s Day Parade on New Years Day wiped it out twenty-four hours hence.

“We had this funky barrel and made a Flemish sour called Phruit Phunk,” Grubb says. “We got an emptied wine barrel, filled it up with the ‘phunk’ and it got red wine and oak flavors that made it ‘phunkier.’ Then we put more phunk in there with blackberries instead of the usual cherry or raspberry – to be a contrarian bastard.”

Growing up on Molson in the ‘80s, Grubb discovered Pennsylvania brewery, Stoudt’s, thereafter. It was a godsend. Stoudt’s Gold Lager and Stoudt’s Fest became instant favorites, inspiring him to seek out independent craft beer. Besides running Nodding Head’s brew room, he’s done fascinating collaborations with respected artisans such as Stoudt’s, California’s Port (Son Of Swami IPA), Jersey’s Flying Fish (Exit 6 Wallonian Rye) and Belgium’s Urthel (Angelicus Belgian IPA).

“Clash City Rockers” jumps out of the speakers as I re-try one of Nodding Head’s most spirited libation, BPA (Bill Payer Ale), a bark-dried, Cascade-hopped, lemon-juiced pale ale stylistically bitterer due to its juniper berry snip.

Then it was off to cask-conditioned 60 Shilling, an ESB-like retreat with subtle tea-like peat sneak, wispy citric flutter and oats-flaked backdrop. It’s clearly well suited for the cask, bringing out more flavors and bettering the regular draught version.

But the clear winner was absolutely fantastic George’s Fault, an easily appealing big blonde Belgian with candi-sugared honey spicing lavishing its lemony grapefruit-pineapple tang, juicy honeydew-melon sweetness, nifty banana taffy piquancy and mint-y herbal mist.

During terse half-hour stopover on the way to Philadelphia Airport in February 2012, enjoyed Belgian Chocolate Stout, a brown chocolate-spiced full body with peat-smoked burnt caramel sweetness lingering across sharp-hopped cappuccino, espresso and latte notes dotting ancillary black cherry, raisin and banana fruiting.

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Stopped in for a half-hour splurge before heading home during New Years Eve, 2012, to get two wonderfully disparate holiday ales. On the sweeter side, Frosty Balls Winter Warmer placed lively gingerbread-snapped cinnamon-allspice-clove tingling next to orange-peeled dark cherry, fig and plum illusions (above white-peppered dewy earthiness).

On the politely embittered side, Tannenbaum layered piney Christmas tree-like Chinook hops and festive spruce-sapped dried fruiting atop orange-peeled grapefruit zest as well as tertiary black cherry, black currant, pine nut and fern undertones (making this Holiday Pale Ale richer and more complex than the equally admirable Frosty Balls).

Lucky for me, long-time head brewer Gordon Grubb dropped by the bar for a few minutes to promote a few new brews he’s got coming down the pike. Motueka, a tropical-fruited citric-limed refresher with New Zealand hops is due in January, as is a new Tripel, followed by a Saison and Biere De Garde.
Grubb then enthusiastically described a coffee-flavored hybrid that went over well months back.
“I was thinking of doing something that wasn’t dark colored but had coffee flavor,” he says. “One day I realized I had a recipe in my head. So I dry-hopped a blonde ale with coffee. People didn’t know what it was until the coffee hit them. It became Nodding Head Enigma.”
He then adds how much he enjoyed Flying Fish Exit 8 Chestnut Brown Ale during recent days.
“I don’t know how they pulled it off. I was skeptical of the chestnut influence but it worked.”
While sipping my Tannenbaum, Grubb recalls, “I did this beer called Hoptimus Prime. The name got stolen (by nearby Legacy Brewery). But our version was absolutely ludicrous considering how big it was. We barely made a profit selling it by the glass. I was thinking of doing a new version with no hops using spices, orange peel or pepper. The White IPA hybrid is along those lines.”
Grubb would love to keg his wares for local outside consumption, but the high demand at Nodding Head makes that a limited part-time venture.

www.noddinghead.com

MANAYUNK BREWING

United States Brewpubs

PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

The City of Brotherly Love birthed the American Revolution and proudly maintains its rustic charm with cobblestone streets, colonial row houses, Gothic museums, and historic marble monuments. While staying at Embassy Suites in historic Logan’s Square post-Xmas ’00, ’01, and ’04, caught annual Mummer’s Day Parade thrice and attended one exhilarating Eagles football playoff game, visiting worthy Dock Street brewery for dinner upon first trip.

Found several Lancaster, Stoudt’s, Troeg’s, and Weyerbacher’s not initially available in New York-Jersey area during stayovers. After discovering fabulously well stocked godsend Foodery Limited (corner of Pine Street and 10th), I bought nearly 100 then-undiscovered international brews in ’01 and January ’03 (all reviewed in Beer Index).

Post-Christmas ’04, visited three meritorious Philly brewpubs. Arguably the best, MANAYUNK BREWING, with its wide variety and flavor depth, is located in a red brick warehouse five miles from midtown (next to a furniture store) along the Schuylkill River. Upon accessing side alley door beyond green-lit Manayunk sign, its wood bar sidles the entrance to a large dining space decorated in the backroom by a large colorful Louis Armstrong mural. Large back deck along river included tiki and patio bar and upstairs banquet facility provided formality. Glass-encased brew tanks behind bar were supplying eight choice beverages upon my visitation.

Lighter fare included dry-grassed Hallertau-Saaz-hopped lemon-bruised pilsner-light Bohemian Blonde, dry Cascade-hopped orange-peeled lemon-embittered Krooks Mill American Pale Ale, and smoke-spiced grain-toasted Oktoberfest bier Manayunk Lager.

Tart berry-seeded quince-soured Schuylkill Punch Raspberry Ale, lemon-wedged orange-peeled coriander-eucalyptus-toned Wit Or Witout Belgian Wit, and complex pine-bitter pumpkin-spruced nutmeg-juniper-tinged Festivus Holiday Ale furnished sweet fruity centers.

Red-fruited candi-sugared cognac-tinged Grand Cru Ale and Scottish peat-smoked spice-hopped Band-Aid-nosed Philadelphia Porter proved robust.

On July ’07 Manayunk revisit, met brewer Chris Firey and assistant Brad Basile while swigging several new finds. Sugar plum-railed fig-date-trimmed Manayunk Vienna Lager and banana-bruised fig-skewed hop-dried Bavarian Beauty Dunkelweiss set the stage.

Better and fruitier were bittersweet blueberry-hoisted hop-prickled soft-watered Blueberry Wheat Lager, tart raspberry-pureed lemon-bruised sour-candied hop-tamped Schuylkill Punch Lager, dry-wooded Simcoe-hopped apple-pear-spiced currant-backed Krook’s Mill Pale Ale, and lemon-wedged floral-hopped banana-skinned clove-frayed Whistle Whetting Wheat.

Best bet: resoundingly tangy apple-orange-peach-pear-glazed, kiwi-mango-grazed, piney-spruced, resin-hopped Totally Tubular…Dude Double IPA.

Upon ensuing New York High Times visit, Basile brought in Manayunk Pablano Porter, a complex Northern English-styled brown ale with mild oak-smoked chili-peppered chipotle spicing drifting into bitter coffee-beaned black chocolate midst accentuated by walnut-hazelnut accents.

During September ’07 trek, tried meringue-like grapefruit rind-embittered grassy-hopped pepper-spiced juniper-jolted alcohol-burned Brilliant Barstool British Pale Ale.

Since then, Jeff Mc Cracken took over brewing operations, adding several new recipes to the mix. But he left within a few years.

On New Years Day 2012, stopped by Manayunk once more with wife in tow, watching the Giants defeat the Cowboys to win their division on the four TV’s scattered across the bar. As I sat at one of the granite-top café tables near the bar, I consumed two new beers crafted by newest brewmeister Doug Marchakitus.

My wife’s hearty Fiorentina Pizza (packed to the hilt with ricotta, mozzarella, spinach and roasted eggplants) went well alongside tart Pez-like Schuylkill Punch Raspberry Lager, an established fruit ale Manayunk’s been crafting since Chris Firey brewed here years hence.

But I found two better choices, especially for wily hop-heads. As Duran Duran’s ‘80s new wave hit, “Hungry Like The Wolf,” played in the background and the Giants scored a touchdown, I consumed soft-toned Dreamin’ Double IPA, a creamy crystal-malted treat bringing lemon-peeled orange rind bittering to juniper-hopped apricot, apple and pear fruiting.

Just as good but twice as interesting was smooth St. Alpha Belgian Style IPA, a new hybrid Belgo-American elixir that really won me over. Its candi-sugared, cotton-candied banana insistence greeted piney citric bittering and briny Belgian yeast peppering, leaving traces of apricot, orange and tangerine in the midst.

www.manayunkbrewery.com

PEEKSKILL BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs

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PEEKSKILL, NEW YORK

Across Hudson River railroad station, first visited PEEKSKILL BREWING COMPANY with wife, Valentine’s Day, 2009. A fine German-American-styled restaurant with great bottled-tapped beer selection and a few homemade elixirs, its original two front dining areas were separate from the narrow back bar (with side tables, mounted TV’s, copper tile ceiling, and jukebox). By late 2012, the brewery would move across the street to a better location.

Original brewer, Neill Acer (formerly of defunct West Side Brewery and Ramapo Brewpub), was the stabilizing force from the beginning until his departure in 2011. A veteran zymurgist, Acer split time between Peekskill and Pearl River’s Defiant Brewing (where he still reigns supreme). During ’11, experienced craftsman Jeff O’Neill was hired from Ithaca Brewery to assume the role of head brewer (until O’Neill took the post as Industrial Art’s head brewer circa 2016).

During December ’12, Peekskill Brewing began operations at its current freestanding brown-and-tan four-storey building just down the road equidistance between Peekskill Landing Park and Riverfront Green Park. A larger and more uniform Industrial setting with a roomy umbrella-tabled side deck, the ground level tap room features a luxurious bar (with Beer List, TV, dartboard, exposed black ducts and side-walled brewing methodology), stainless steel brewing vats and several wood-barreled tables along the front window. A minimalist balcony level dining area with smaller bar provides a beautiful Hudson River view. Rooftop dining will hopefully be readied by 2014.

Upon my August ’13 two-hour stopover, I gain access through the side entrance and sit at the left corner of the bar to quaff four previously untried beers and one revisited sour ale. FYI: Guest taps on this day include the increasingly popular Allagash White, Firestone Walker Double Jack, Great Divide Hoss, Lagunitas WTF, Ommegang Rare Vos and Southern Tier Live.

To start my session, dry-bodied Skills Pils crossed musky Czech-German-styled straw graining with wood-lacquered resinous herbal hop oiling and tart lemon-pitted souring for a robust pale-toned pilsner that nicely countered approachable Gose-like Berliner Weiss, Simple Sour. Its efficient wheat, corn and millet influence underlied vinous white grape esters, salty coriander spicing, tart mango-guava tropicalia and leathery oaken cherry.

Another bone-dry concoction, soft-watered Farmhouse-styled saison Flavor Savor, brought subtle pear and quince illusions to white-peppered herbs and wafting hibiscus, dandelion, daisy and rose pedal florality, picking up a musty earthen dewiness along the way.

Next up, PB DRye Irish Stout layered black chocolate tartness, chalky cocoa acridity and coffee bean bittering above ashen-hopped flaked rye malting for a superb mocha dessert treat.

Best bet: complex 10% alcohol-fueled Imperial Stout, Vaporizer. Its dark chocolate roast, syrupy molasses sapping, careening vanilla creaming and mild espresso whim sat atop oats-sugared maple malts and hop-charred bittering as ancillary blackberry, bourbon, brandy and licorice illusions gently recede.

By the time I left Peekskill this sunny Sunday afternoon, a local Jazz band had taken the makeshift outdoor stage to entertain the diversified patronage.

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On my original February ’09 sojourn, windowed brew tanks served Paramount Pale Ale, a raw wheat-grained orange-soured prune-dried carrot-cooked lacquer-like dry body with pink grapefruit subtlety. After chili, vegetable wrap, and Caesar salad, I enjoyed hop-charred oats-seared molasses-malted Peekskill Vanilla Bourbon Stout, a robust bitter hedging creamy brown chocolate, oaken vanilla, chalky cocoa, and black cherry sweetness against charcoal-singed anise, tar, and tobacco chew illusions.

Upon hot August night in ’09, wife and I tried Yeah Peaches!, a Belgian-styled moderate body with raw-honeyed sour lemon-candied tartness overwhelming miniscule white peach tartness and peppery-hopped lemongrass spicing.

On May ’10 two-hour haunt, tried sharp hop-spiced grapefruit-soured orange-candied Peekskill Old Wagon Ale, an alcohol-burnt ‘old ale’ with minor wood tones, dainty apricot-peach illusions, and creamy caramel malting. Peekskill Sally Sweeney Oatmeal Raisin Stout placed soft-watered black chocolate creaminess above coffee-roasted hop-charred cola, hazelnut, macadamia, and walnut illusions, but latent oats-smoked raisin-pureed sourness languishes.

July, 2010, alongside pork quesadillas at happy hour, quaffed two more engaging libations. Boisterous peppery hop prickle invades novel rosemary-thyme herbage and orange-peeled lemon zest of offbeat Rosemary’s Baby Belgian Golden Ale. Sharp hop-bitten lemon-seeded orange-peeled juniper bittering overrides expectant banana souring, unripe peach-apple wisp, and herbal-spiced snip of spunky Hudson Hefeweizen.

One day prior to Peekskill Brewery’s second anniversary party, October, 2010, enjoyed two fine new-fashioned libations. IPA-like wood-lacquered fruiting consumed creamy caramel-malted Beecher’s Barleywine, a heady alcohol-astringent full body boasting ripe peach-pear-apple-raspberry bluster over chestnut-hazelnut whim to juniper-embittered backend. Nearly as good, citric-soured Dunderberg Dunkelweizen brought fig-dried date-sugared orange compote and clove-spiced banana browning to dry earthen fungi yeast panoply.

Got to hang out with friend, Dennis Flubacher, and 29-year-old Peekskill Brewery owner, Keith Berardi, Thanksgiving Eve, 2010. Enjoyed plate of nachos while consuming two undiscovered treasures, one of which is a Garam masala-spiced seasonal in its second year, and the other, a newfangled concoction named after our red-haired bartender.

Creamy brown-sugared chocolate-spiced vanilla-coarsened Cha Cha Chai Brown Ale brought green-hopped chai tea bittering to cinnamon-toasted peanut-shelled praline-walnut-hazelnut niche and floral hibiscus nuance. Saison-styled Rye’s Red yielded soft-hopped sour-fruited apple-molded clementine orange tartness to rye-breaded caraway-fennel midst.

New brewer Jeff O’Neil came aboard to replace Acer in 2012. By June, I’d resurfaced at Peekskill to try three easygoing newfangled summer ales.

A hoppy wheat ale, Daywalker had a soft-toned light body spreading lemony grapefruit peel zest all over Band Aid-wafted white peppering and fizzy salted spicing. Approachable Eastern Standard IPA brought its mild woody hop bittering to a citric spiced easement, where orange-peeled grapefruit, apricot, pear and apple illusions reside. Less impressive, light-bodied Zeitgeist Berliner placed sour lemony orange tartness over subtle resin hop bitterness.

 

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Sometimes a change has gotta come. The awkwardly disconnected U-shaped interior of the bygone Peekskill Brewery cannot match the new digs. So I decided to visit the original Peekskill Brewery one last time, November ’12, before the pub moved down the street to its new four-floor building.
My friend Dennis and I got there for the ever-popular Hudson Valley Restaurant Week and got served not only two fine new beers but also a delicious $29 price-fixed three-course meal that couldn’t be beat.
For a light-bodied straightforward opener, I re-tried the totally sessionable Eastern Standard. Its polite grapefruit entry received mild floral hop acridity and sweet candied malting atop a paltry white-breaded spine. Then, I got an order of 12 meaty oysters vineagrette ($12 at Happy Hour) before proceeding to a newly rendered tropical-fruited elixir.
Sourly citric Saison-like Malibu Mango gathered mango, green grape esters, guava, passion fruit, kiwi and strawberry illusions above astringent hop bittering and raw-honeyed malt buttering.
Our three-course meal then took center stage. I had the duck-fatty ground swine Pork Rillette (with grilled bread and grain mustard as an appetizer). Next, delectable Hemlock Hills Maple & Black Pepper Chicken featured a sugary glaze that moistened the roasted bird alongside sauteed kale spinach and mashed potatos. And for dessert, I enjoyed Apple Calvados with whipped cream.
Meanwhile, Dennis got the Neuske Bacon Soup (a creamy meat-chunked parsnip-tinged appetizer) and filling Pork Belly (with salsa verde, lentils and roasted carrots). For dessert, he went with the rich Chocolate Seasalt Tart (with toffee and whipped cream).
For a nightcap, we settled on Nightwalker Dark Wheat Ale. Its toasted caramel malting and dark hop spicing led the way for a simmering peppercorn-chipotle peppering enhanced by a faux Band-aid-like beechwood smoking.
On tap at Jimmy’s No. 43, found Peekskill Simple Sour. Its sour lemon-juiced carbolic spritz embraced lactic brettanomyces musk above rustic corn-dried chaffed wheat. Tertiary vinous grape, mandarin orange and lemon rind illusions received earthen hay, horseblanket and leather acridity.
In town to try some newfangled sour ales and one fine stout, July ’17, got to hang out with friend Phil at the wooden side patio.
Summery Cascade dry-hopped Hidden Track brought silken lemon zest, grapefruit pith bittering and tart green grape esters to musky earthiness with low acidity.
Pink guava-infused Pinky Up retained its dry-hopped brettanomyces souring for saison yeast-draped passionfruit and kiwi tartness plus vinous white grape pucker.
Lambic-styled spontaneous fermenter, LemPBeek conveyed mildly fungi herbal lemondrop piquancy and mustard-soured yellow grape esters.
On the dark side, relaxing medium-roast Ethiopian peaberry coffee beans and chicory define To The Moon Stout, a Brooklyn Brewery collaboration with black chocolate and dark cocoa undertones reinforcing its bittersweet java theme.
Following Albany trip in August ’18, quaffed dry pale-malted King Bee Lager (a collaboration with Poughkeepsie’s Plan Bee Farm Brewery), a raw-honeyed moderation with corn-grained herbal grassiness and mild lemon souring.
Then, charcoal-stained Cinder Imperial Stout spread molasses-sapped black chocolate syrup atop bittersweet burgundy, raisin and fig dried-fruiting as mild hop-charred bittering ensued.
During late April ’21, revisited Peekskill once more to consume two new brews.
Zestful orange-peeled grapefruit tanginess, salted pineapple souring and white peach sweetness merged for lightly creamed Consensus Reality Imperial IPA, leaving herbal residue on its sugared pale malts.
Bittersweet dark chocolate subsumed cocoa-dried coconut cadre of Un Poco Loco Coconut & Cocoa Stout, letting ancillary maple molasses, almond milk and toffee sweetness battle distant hop-charred coffee bittering.

www.thepeekskillbrewery.com

DEFIANT BREWING

United States Brewpubs

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PEARL RIVER, NEW YORK

Twenty miles North of Manhattan in a historic industrial warehouse across railroad station lies Pearl River sanctuary, DEFIANT BREWING. Brewer Neill Acer (formerly of defunct Ramapo Valley Brewery and West End Brewery) serves beers straight from large brew tanks behind right side bar.

During November ’06 visit, initially tried mellow Stephano’s Stout, a light-bodied changeup placing raw chocolate-cocoa sedation atop dried raisin-fig-date serenity and sedate hop-roasted cereal-oats. Next up, dewy amber-hazed English pale ale, Little Thumper, caressed satiny yellow-fruited subtlety with raw-honeyed mineral-grained herbal hops, cannabis-like grassy twig earthiness, and vegetal wildflower-barnyard-horsehide dryness.

Best bet: dazzling Christmas Ale, a slow sipping barleywine-like winter celebrator bringing anise abundance to chewy chocolate-molasses creaminess, seasonal nutmeg-allspice tingle, raspberry puree linger, raisin-grape upsurge, and coarse walnut-hazelnut respite seeping through rum-brandy warmth.

December ’07 stopover, brought mildly piney citric-embittered herbal-tinged straw-hay-horsehide-dried Farmhouse Ale and twiggy soft-watered dry-hopped cocoa-powdered walnut-pecan-fig-savored Nut Brown Ale. 2007’s Christmas Ale bettered previous version as up-front burgundy-bourbon theme overlaid funky dried fruiting, candied red apple-grape souring, and bruised cherry-banana tartness. Also tried metallic brimstone-wafted pink-headed magenta-bodied Raspberry Wheat, a Belgian yeast-styled peculiarity with sour-candied oaken cherry tartness, sparkling champagne flow, and unripe peach-raspberry tease.

March ’08, tried brown chocolate-fronted dry-hopped wood-charred coffee-quipped maple-sapped walnut-fig-rye-backed Porter and smooth coffee-milked espresso-surged chocolate-malted hop-roasted nut-singed Dry Irish Stout. Sun-dried fig-soured grape-parched oaken-cherry hop-sharp cider-like Abbey Single stayed clandestinely alcoholic.

Two months hence, during May ’08 stop-by, tried robust Defiant Stout Of War, a lactic dry-bodied bitter merging hop-charred coffee ground souring with powdered cocoa-chocolate malts, hickory-smoked peat-whiskey, plus tertiary bruised cherry, raisin, fig, and anise illusions. Upon visit, bought growler of Defiant Golden Nugget, a lemony grapefruit-centered, woody hop-embittered, wheat-husked, barnyard-wafted medium body.

During one-hour August ’09 afternoon visit, quaffed mildly creamy cereal-grained spice-hopped moderate body, Defiant Muddy Creek Lager, with its bittersweet red-orange-fruited simmer, tobacco leaf twinge, and biscuit-y spine. Afterwards, enjoyed Da Oaty Oatmeal Stout, a creamy dark chocolate-y medium body placing coffee bean bittering atop anise-smitten Belgian candi-sugar sweetness and maple-sapped fig-soured vegetal-tinged oats char.

Late September ’09, my wife and I hung out with Acer and Jeff (the bartender) while quaffing moderate-bodied Baron Von Weizen. Its seltzer-like peppery-hopped orange-tangerine tang and ethereal lemon-dropped banana-clove imprint rose above soft white-breaded wheat spine.

Celebrated Octoberfest ’09 with two uniquely different autumnal seasonals. Mild medium-bodied Headless Horseman Pumpkin Ale anchored creamy caramel-malted cocoa subtlety and teasing vegetal whim to opulent cinnamon-spiced pumpkin pie theme. Fruit-spiced grassy-hopped Oktoberfest retained champagne-like fizz, mild orange-tangerine tartness, spare red apple souring, and lime-y brimstone chalking to biscuit-y wheat spine.

On tap, May 2010, Defiant Maibock countered honeycombed orange-bruised apple-pied frontage, creamy Scotch malt sugaring, and biscuit-y bottom with mild grassy-hopped lemony grapefruit bitterness, slightly astringent alcohol burn, and cooked veggie nuance.

My longtime friend, Dennis Flubacher, bought four growlers for our consumption, June 2010. We quaffed these brews at our domiciles while watching Yankees games. Creamy caramel malts and tangy apple-apricot-nectarine sweetness linger above piney-hopped juniper-embittered alcohol astringency of Defiant Medusa IPA. Bittersweet cherry-pureed prune-dried black chocolate creaminess offsets hop-charred cocoa-dusted dark coffee roast and dewy peat backdrop consuming soft-watered Defiant Chocolate Porter.

Lighter in texture and hue than brewers’ less pungent same-styled Muddy Creek Lager, grassy-hopped grapefruit-yellowed lemon rind-embittered Defiant Prohibition Lager guarded earthen mineral-grained corn-dried vegetal musk with herbal Cilantro-sage dusting. Sturdy American Pale Ale placed IPA-like piney orange-peeled grapefruit rind bittering over earthen oats-roasted maize-dried graining in medium-bodied template.

Tried spice-hopped mineral-grained clean-watered San Francisco Lager, with its vegetal fungi earthiness and back-throated orange-peeled grapefruit bittering, July ’10. A week later, buttery Chardonnay-like citric-lacquered white-peppered crystal-malted Defiant Summer Ale brought floral-wafted rosemary-herbed lavender-accented coriander-clove-spicing to lemony orange fruiting.

To celebrate the dawn of October, ’10, Flubacher and I split a growler of thoroughly enjoyable Defiant Headless Horseman Pumpkin Ale. Though most of its flavor sits at the backend, rich pumpkin pie spicing receives resounding apple-spiced cinnamon-maple sugaring and tingly cardamom-nutmeg-allspice seasoning usurped by even better fig-sugared date-candied black cherry plentitude.

On January 2011 stopover with wife, tried bottled version of effervescently creamy Belgian Spring Ale, a peppery dry-hopped orange-spiced strong ale with champagne-fizzed gin-soaked alcohol whir pleating sugary grapefruit, orange marmalade, and cherry illusions over funky barnyard parch.

As nightfall came, had fine chocolate dessert treat, Long Shadow Stout, a well-rounded medium-to-full body with black chocolate-roasted hop-charred coffee bean incentive, ashen charcoal bittering, walnut sharpness, and teasing anise quip contrasting vanilla-hazelnut sweetness to black cherry recess.

On a sunny September ’11 afternoon, I sampled smoked gouda, asiago, and aged cheddar alongside Defiant’s homemade Original Beef Jerky while quaffing one of the best seasonal pumpkin beers marketed. Headless Horseman #3 Pumpkin Ale brought lively pumpkin-pecan pie theme to soft fuggle-hopped fizz, allowing dazzling gingerbread, cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice vigor to burst forth.

During three hour stopover, February 2012, I interviewed Acer and tried two more contrasting Defiant brews. Firstly, 750-mm bottle of Resolution #4 Belgian Strong Ale brought vinous white wine yeast to heavily carbolic mix of sparkling champagne, hard cider, citric musk and buttery Chardonnay illusions.

After cleansing the palate, Defiant Chocolate Stout proved to be a rich mocha-bound full body with a prominent coffee roast entry getting dark chocolate milking over soft watering. Tar-like anise bittering thickened its rugged toasted oats spine.

At Andy’s Corner Bar in Bogota, New Jersey, March 2012, tried cask version of Defiant Milk Stout, a soft-toned spin-off pleating chalky cocoa-dried chocolate malting with mild coffee ground bittering.

At Twisted Elm in Elmwood Park, March 2012, got to throw back a pint of smooth Defiant O’Defiant Stout, an extremely mellow dry-bodied dark ale with mild dark chocolate creaming, soy-milked nuttiness and watery black coffee sedation.

Enjoyed updated version of Defiant Raspberry Wheat at Andy’s Corner Bar, August, 12. Its persistent raspberry tartness gained tenacity from plasticine-clayed wheat sugaring, syrupy woodruff and floral chrysanthemum.

At Garfield’s Three Wise Monks, April ’13, quaffed Defiant Highland Stout, a robust full body with peat-smoked rolled oats combating dark-roasted chocolate roasting and stove-burnt coffee bittering.

One month hence at Andy’s Corner Bar, quaffed sessionable summertime ale, Defiant Orange Creamsickle, which perfectly re-created the vanilla-sweet ice cream its dessert-like namesake invokes, layering luxurious cream soda sugaring with orange soda spritz and pasty orange-flavored baby aspirin niche.

Pre-Thanksgiving ’14 at Blue Ribbon Tavern, got pint of Defiant Dunkelweizen, a dryer-than-expected medium-bodied dark wheat bringing dewy peat moss to prune-soured green raisin, purple grape, burgundy and port notes as well as nutty nuances (and coarsened hop bittering).

By now, the majority of my Defiant beer entries are in separate Beer Index. Nevertheless, during February’16 at Pearl River’s Ambulance, quaffed soft-tongued one-off Defiant Old Fashioned Weapons Grade Double IPA (with cherries, orange peel and bitters) on cask. Its silken IPA citric fruiting picked up wispy orange-peeled cherry tartness to contrast blatant astringent ‘bitters.’

BEGINNING THE NEW YEAR WITH DEFIANT

After the Cubs finally won a World Series and a non-politician finally got elected prez in ’16, it felt good to start the new year back at local watering hole, Defiant Brewing. As I walked in at 4 PM on a slow Wednesday in January (’17), I was in for a pleasant surprise as veteran brewer Chris Sheehan (formerly of Chelsea Brewing, JJ Bitting and Gun Hill) had joined the fold and concocted some more enjoyable suds under the Defiant banner.

As I settle in at the back bar with Chris serving, there are five appealing ales I’d not yet tried. Each had its own original take on a specific style, whether it was cask conditioning a coconut-peppered IPA or cold lagering a German-styled Kellerbier or adding Equinox hops to the barleywine I began the afternoon imbibing.

Closer to a lighter fruit-spiced wheat wine despite its hefty 10.3% ABV, Magnus Pango Barleywine brought fig-dried orange peel tartness and orange vanilla sweetness to mildly bitter hops above subtle crystal-pale malting.

Sweet ‘n sour orange compote and lemony dried fig tartness engaged Marzen-like Trotziges Kellerfest, a pilsner malted moderation with mild brown tea licks.

Next, lively Equinox You Out Double IPA allowed tangy orange-peeled yellow grapefruit briskness and bittersweet lemon zest to ride above juniper-bitten Equinox hops, groaty oats and black tea resin.

Unique cask-conditioned Miss Mosh Habanero Coconut IPA let subtle habanero peppering positively affect cotton-candied coconut toasting over the astringently dry-hopped base of Defiant’s Medusa IPA.

Before heading out, silken grained dark ale, Cream Of Oat Stout, placed black chocolate and dark cocoa malts above dry oats-charred leathering. Its smooth milky creaminess lined the chalky Baker’s chocolate finish.

Caught up with brewmeister Neill Acer during May ’18 sojourn. Got to enjoy French oak-barreled Magnus Pango Barleywine, a candi-sugared, bourbon-sweetened delight showcasing piquant bruised orange tang and ancillary cherry-mango-grapefruit conflux as well as tannic grape esters.

Also, finally tried elusive dark-roasted full body, Solarvore Stout, where bittersweet cocoa-powdered black chocolate malting catapulted Blackstrap molasses-sapped cookie dough, star anise and espresso illusions above its sedate maple oats base.

Re-revisited Defiant April ’22 on a dank Monday eve to enjoy two more previously untried brews.

Sweetly soured passionfruit assurance gained lemony grapefruit sunshine, limey guava-gooseberry bittering, wispy white wine esters and tart rhubarb snips for Morning Reintroductions Sour IPA, a briskly sharp citric-finishing medium body.

Dewy soy-sauced coffee oiling and musky earthen soiling anchored Mambo #9 Porter, leaving polite lemon rind bittering to contrast slight date nut breading.       

www.defiantbrewing.com

OUTER BANKS BREWING STATION

United States Brewpubs,

KILL DEVIL HILLS, NORTH CAROLINA

North of Cape Hatteras, rode waves at Kill Devil Hills (where Wright Brothers flew first flights) and visited one of four unique Brew Thru drive-through beverage stores (though selection was limited), August ‘04. Revisited the Outer Banks another dozen times by 2023, bodysurfing and some boating.

At nearby OUTER BANKS BREWING STATION (open since 2001), originally quaffed sugar malt-spiced, green apple-soured Altimeter, tangy citric-sweet coriander-spiced wheat-chaffed Belgian-styled Wright Wit, soft curacoa orange-embittered ESB, dry chocolate-chalked Irish-styled Stormy Roses Stout, and dryer coffee bean-roasted, hickory-charred, maple-malted Smoke Daddy Porter.

Over the course of a decade, this modern interpretation of a life saving station grew in size and stature, becoming the first turbine-infused wind powered brewpub in the nation. Keeping its vintage unfinished barnstable appeal, the large pub then added a spacious umbrella-lined back deck (with kids pirate ship playground, picnic seating and trellis) while offering a wider array of beer styles.

A pleasurable experience for all ages, Outer Banks Brewing Station really packed ‘em in on my Sunday evening dinnertime stopover, August ’15. The creative pub fare may not be ‘revolutionary cuisine,’ but it’s damn fine.

A centralized bar with open kitchen serves homemade tapped beer and fine wines alongside surf, turf, ’pubwiches’ and appetizers. The airplane hangar-like tin ceiling provides protection for the rustic wood furnishings, diner-styled red booths, private loft, glass-encased brewtanks, exposed ducts and beach-bricked tracks. Earth-toned silk screen murals line the walls and a widescreen TV at the bar keeps sports-minded patrons entertained.

My wife and I grab a seat at the elevated front section (used for late-night band performances) to share a beer-marinated flank steak sandwich (with sauteed onions, peppers and melted cheese), crab bisque and fried flounder.

For soft-toned aperitifs, the increasingly popular Lemongrass Wheat Ale  (available in cans) brought tangy lemon zest, ginger-spiced cologne perfuming and floral accents to stylishly neutralized banana-clove sweetness while Weihenstephaner yeast gave Hugh Hefeweizen its distinct white-peppered banana, clove, coriander and bubblegum sugaring.

Briny lemon-perfumed mandarin orange tartness and light yellow grape esters regaled light-bodied Olsch Kolsch. French saison yeast and dry Saaz-hopped white peppering enlivened It’s My Birthday Saison, an herbaceous moderation with honeyed orange sweetness and spritzy lemon tingle.

‘Poundable’ Late Game ESB brought mild Fuggle-hopped astringency to tea-like earthen dewiness and subtle dried fruiting. Sessionable, despite its sharp hop influence, Dr. Rudi IPA provided woody-perfumed grapefruit and orange rind bittering to distant honeyed malting.

As a delightful digestif, malt-smoked Broke Tooth Stout layered barley-roasted black chocolate atop dry cocoa and spiced dried cherry.

During June ’16 trip, chomped on tilefish while discovering four previously untried brews.

First up, mild Bohemian-styled Love Pils, saddled easygoing wood-dried Saaz hop bittering with lightly spiced lemon-peeled seltzer spritz.

Sessionable ESB, Alliance Ale, placed sweet toffee and crystal malt spicing against dry peat malts, picking up a mild mint stint.

Commendable 15th anniversary celebrator, Belgian IPA, sprinkled salty white pepper spicing atop zesty lemon, mandarin orange, clementine and tangerine tang as well as buttery Chardonnay nuances and herbal notions.

After dinner, dark-roasted cocoa malts, peanut-shelled walnut char and dry spicing anchored Custom Brown Ale.

On July ’23 trip, sank a bold porter with dinner.

Bitter dark chocolate-draped Blackstrap molasses, tarry tobacco chaw and ashen nuttiness pervaded the raw-honeyed oatmeal stead of dark-roasted Honey Oatmeal Porter.             

www.obbrewing.com

Also worth exploring in the Outer Banks were Chip’s Wine & Beer Market (500-plus beers and elegant tasting room), Yellow Submarine (great sandwiches, pizza and tapped beer) and Lucky 12 sportsbar (20 tapped draughts, 50-plus bottled beers, nostalgic diner-styled seating and glass-encased beer can collection).