Monthly Archives: January 2009

(FREEMINER) DEEP SHAFT STOUT

Pour slowly heavily carbonated bottle-conditioned jet-black stout or foamy tan head will be disturbed and wind up all over the bar. Rigid cocoa dryness penetrates deep roasted coffee influence and burnt cedar cove, dominating initial bitter hop burst. Not as thick and rich as rockier stouts, yet creamy mocha bluster informs fine lace-laden Brit discreetly.

FRANKENHEIM ALT

Obtuse German brown ale brings dry-hopped burnt toast entry to barley-roasted chestnut dirge, settling into metallic honey-malted astringency similar to non-alcoholic O’Doul’s Amber and closer to inferior copper ales. Wood-charred earthen grain bitterness reflects smoky character well.

(FRANCHES-MONTAGNES) LA DRAGONNE

Muddled herbal-spiced peculiarity is mild winter ale best served warm. Advertised orange-peeled star anise, clove, cardamom, coriander, and juniper potpourri lacks prominence, overshooting intended target by wide margin. Instead, cinnamon-spiced chocolate sweetness vaults port-brandy warmth of misguided prune-hued elixir. When chilled, honeyed restraint softens cloy root beer/ black licorice jot.

(FRANCHES-MONTAGNES) ABBAYE DE SAINT BON-CHIEN

Deliriously savory burgundy-hued full body cost $21.49 for 1 pint 9 ounces of luxuriant 10% alcohol liquid. But that’s a bargain. Matured in Merlot, Cabernet, and Grappa vats, its expansive sharp citric hop plain and vegetal earthiness spread across beautiful Sangria medley suggesting banana, apple, red grape, pineapple, and apricot. Spicy cinnamon entwines apropos vinous acidity to port wine finish. On tap at Copper Mine, vinegary brettanomyces funk brings mouth-puckering sourness to oaken cherry, green grape, white wine, rosé and vermouth tones.

Highly recommended.

FOUNDERS RUBAEUS

Crucial Belgian-styled framboise set the stage for many American-bred Euro-based fruit ales to compete favorably. Ripe raspberry-juiced fermentation of ruby-hazed pink-blushed medium body stays sublime above syrupy cherry soda tartness and lightly creamed vanilla sweetness. Vinous lemon-soured red grape, cranberryrosé  and champagne pucker contrasts sugary candy apple glaze. Tertiary Victoria plum, strawberry, elderberry, apricot and tangerine illusions embellish slim floral bouquet. Prickly hop pep gives busy framboise its soda-like carbolic fizz. Compares favorably to redoubtable New Glarus Raspberry Tart.