Supposedly brewed with ‘Irish spirit,’ moderate-bodied copper-hued ale lacks rich Irish distinction. Muted orange bitterness furnishes mild barley sweetness for easygoing, if unassuming, opening. But fizzy-hopped sweet cream essence inundated by pungent sourdough skunking at dulled out finish.
All posts by John Fortunato
MC NEILL’S TARTAN EXPORT ALE
Mildly sweet Scotch malt-dominated nickel-hued 80 Shilling Ale with billowing fleshy head integrates rustic smooth-watered mineral grained sharpness with rising fig-date overture. Approaching grape-nut parch and dry rye tease befit herbal honey tea finish. Needs thicker texture to subjugate tinny flow.
MC NEILL’S RUBY RED ALE
Expressive pine-spruced maple malt insistence expands through lively sharp-fruited spiced hop surge. Grapefruit-soured berry suggestion turns to lingered nut bitterness as floral clove entices earthy wet leaf axis.
MC NEILL’S PULLMAN’S PORTER
Spice-hopped lactose-aided hazy brown port integrates dry roasted coffee souring with oncoming mouth-puckering grape tannic bitterness and oak-aged cherry acridity. Black licorice, charcoal, and dehydrated raisin contrast looming nutty creaminess.
MC NEILL’S PAY DAY SEASONAL UNFILTERED LAGER
Bland bottle conditioned ruddy-hazed Vienna lager lacks advertised seasonal spicing, settling for off-dry musty orange listlessness. Flat tea-like midst enjoins mildewed cellar dankness.
MC NEILL’S OATMEAL STOUT
Robust mahogany dry stout retains black coffee bitterness, thick creamy froth, and sourly tannic white grape-black cherry pucker. Parched filbert-Brazilian nut continuance, milky black chocolate auxiliary, and chalky mocha snip pick up coarse charcoal-tarred tobacco chaw nuances as everlasting espresso aftertaste begs further imbibing of full-bodied delight.
MC NEILL’S IMPERIAL STOUT
Sticky dry-bodied jet black bitter brings pervasive coffee theme to creamy lactose center. Slithery grapefruit, black currant, and oaken cherry cloister espresso-burnt cocoa bean souring draping resinous pine-tarred chewing tobacco pungency. Perfect strong sipper for stouthearted heavyweights.
MC NEILL’S FIREHOUSE AMBER ALE
Rustic 1908 Brattleboro firehouse displayed on label of rich coppery amber celebrates neighboring station. Expressive pine needled spruce setting initially heightens sharp hop toasting and nutty bitterness countering sweet malt serenade. Medicinal alcohol luster hammers home charcoal-black tar influence at red-fruited finish; bottom yeast sediment adds mild viscosity.
MC NEILL’S EXTERMINATOR DOPPELBOCK
Easily one of greatest American brewpubs, Mc Neill’s generic labeled ruddy-browned full-bodied seasonal bock offers laid-back ice coffee flow soured thusly by orange-bruised prune-dried green raisin scour and vinous grape tannic tartness before settling into dry port finish. Ashen peat bottom collapses.
MC NEILL’S DUCK’S BREATH ALE
Sedately mild English Bitter needs firmer bruised lemon souring and more vigorous floral hop bittering. Dry earthen vegetal hint and sweet tobacco stint bring scant compensation.
MC NEILL’S DEAD HORSE INDIA PALE ALE
Obliging headless amber counters fruited red ale frontage with bitter spiced hop finish. Sharply silken grapefruit-juiced pear-apple-tangerine tang invades caramel candied midst. Leafy earthen sway and vegetal mushroom nick consume backend.
MC NEILL’S CHAMP ALE
Hazy golden mainstream fodder integrates peachy clementine-tangerine juiciness with hop-embittered grapefruit rind sedation. But murky vegetal earthiness, trifling spiciness, and tinny finish negate early gains.