Up-front crystal malt sweetness surrounds lemony citric tartness and raisin-fig tinge for peculiar sourdough-scented ale. Bitter hop backdrop adds firmness. Open-minded drinkers will find this worthy, if not special.
All posts by John Fortunato
(GOLDEN VALLEY) GEIST BOCK LAGER
Light springtime pale bock enhances buttery barley sugaring and pale Munich-Vienna malting with rye highlights. Hop-toasted fig-raisin conflux informs sweet candied finish for simple elegance. An easygoing softie for lighter thirsts.
(GOLDEN VALLEY) DUNDEE PORTER
Bitter Chinook hops activate smoked nuttiness and prune souring of unconventional pitch-black porter. Oak-dried cherry pucker reinforces raspberry puree midst until tar-like acridity overwhelms parched cocoa chalkiness and baker’s chocolate wither to clean watered ice coffee finish.
(GOLDEN VALLEY) CHEHALEM MOUNTAIN I.P.A.
Pleasant floral-fruited sweetness envelops Cascade-hopped peach-gourd sash and soft-watered purity of well-balanced medium body.
GOLDEN PHEASANT PREMIUM LAGER
Supposed ‘traditional Slovak’ golden lager sinks dry-hopped grain overtones into pasty caramel malt pleasantry. Herbal citric spicing tingles lingered nut bread finish, but light-bodied watery nature lacks depth of better Eastern Europeans such as Czechvar.
GOLDEN GATE PALE ALE
Musty grain holding and beckoning barleymalt sweetness convey lager sensibility, but spicy orange peel aroma, compressed citrus midst, and persistent hop bitterness place this firmly in pale ale territory. Not as organic or busy as most first-rate West Coast brews, however. Brewery defunct: 2003.
GOLDEN GATE ORIGINAL ALE
Foamy-headed golden-hazed medium body opens with soft hops garnishing sourdough snippet, wimpy nuttiness, and pale malt lag. Bittersweet grains sag by watery finish. Brewery defunct: 2003.
GOLDEN GATE HEFE WEIZEN
Sourdough aroma influences promising wheat aspect, as hints of orange peel, banana, and lemon tickle tongue, then decorate well-defined clove-influenced yellow-fruited finish. Cloudy medium-bodied Californian competes favorably with Germany’s finest weizens. Brewery defunct: 2003.
GOLDEN GATE COPPER ALE
Slim malt chocolate continuation muddles fizzy hops and subtle nuts to moderately creamy finish. A tad bland and slick – like macrobrew gunk. Brewery defunct: 2003.
GOLDEN GATE AMBER ALE
Spicy-hopped fragrance embodies bittersweet fruitiness and murky barleymalt sweetness. Soft-bodied texture counters hearty thrust and berry hints coat toasted finish. Resilient without being harsh. Brewery defunct: 2003.
GOLDEN EAGLE LAGER
Pale-toned medium body with charred wood palate enhancing remarkably expansive honeyed Scotch likeness. Extremely dry rye backbone and lessened lime-hopped briskness further assure bitter alcohol-stricken finish. Single malt whiskey snobs may sing its praises but less adventurous lagerheads will be put off.
(GOLD COAST) SHANGHAI PALE ALE
Despite soft grain-roasted malting and snippy hop spot, rather strong and dark for pale ale styling. Initial corn sugar explosion gets in the way of floundering fruit adjuncts and recessive spice dusting beneath surface. Brewery defunct: 2002.