On tap at Growler & Gill, briny lemon-limed sourness pleats hard-candied cherry pucker. Tart raspberry rasp, vinous green grape esters, mild green apple snip and Jolly Rancher watermelon nuance provide further souring. Residual sugar sweetness hidden below the oaken cherry surface. ‘Sublime,’ indeed.
All posts by John Fortunato
LAGUNITAS WALDOS’ SPECIAL
On tap at Ambulance, stylishly easygoing Imperial IPA (2015 limited edition version celebrating 4-20 pot icon Waldo) brings subtle floral-perfumed botanical herbage, moderate piney hop resin and dank hemp oiling to tropical fruited sensation. Sharp grapefruit-peeled orange and pineapple bittering contrasted by tangy peach, mango, apple and nectarine sweetness.
OTHER HALF/ THREES GRAND SCHEME BIERE DE GARDE
On tap at Ambulance, winning collaboration between two Brooklyn brewers brings zesty tropical fruiting and honeyed malting to astringent citric dry-hopped bittering. Bruised orange, grapefruit and lemon illusions sweetened by caramel corn sugaring.
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OTHER HALF HOP SHOWERS INDIA PALE ALE
BARRIER NON-CENTS SESSION IPA
On tap at Ambulance, dank citrus musk crowds astringent hop bittering of arguably ‘sessionable’ Money IPA knockoff. Retaining all the original brew’s grain alcohol coarsening and lemony orange pungency (minus the fruit rotted aspect), its light sugared spicing takes away some of the bitter edge, but not enough for lighter palates.
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CATSKILL FREAK TRACTOR SOUR (MODEL #1)
Approachable wild ale brings light brettanomyces funk to sour green grape and Granny Smith apple pucker. Delicate mango, guava and papaya tartness hidden by earthen barnyard astringency (and light herbal touch). Sugared malt spicing, usually lacking in sour ales, provides mild contrast. Easygoing crossover will please lighter conventional ale thirsts since the acidic sourness is never overdone.
BACCHUS INDIGENOUS
On tap at Ambulance, delicate wild ale spontaneously soured with Seyval Blanc white grapes in red wine barrels retains soft-toned nature despite terse mouth-puckering acidity. Sour grape esters settle beside lemon-juiced cherry vinaigrette and Granny Smith apple tartness. Briny sea salting increases sharp sourness at wispy white-wined finish.
