On tap at Ambulance, contrarian yellow-clouded Belgian tripel seems closer to an American pale ale with its mild yellow-orange fruited souring, subtle grassy hop bittering and sugary spiced malting. Orange-peeled grapefruit, pineapple, tangerine, apricot, peach, mango and clementine tang picks up herbal nip. Phenolic fruity finish fades quick, but retains a nice hop bite.
All posts by John Fortunato
ROTHAUS PILS TANNEN ZAPFLE
On tap at Ambulance, famed Bavarian cult beer brings sour yellow fruited pungency to delicately skunked dry hop bittering and light pilsner malting. Mild lemon-rotted grapefruit zing gets scattered across raw-honeyed mineral graining, sourdough yeast and grassy herbal niche.
PERENNIAL ABRAXAS
On tap at Ambulance Brew House, determinedly “challenging” Imperial Stout drops roasted ancho chili peppers onto intensely rich and creamy dark-roasted mocha malting while advertised cacao nibs, vanilla bean and cinnamon sticks prove just as provocatively influential upon Abraxas’ thick ‘n chewy nature. Brown chocolate spicing, fudgy vanilla sugaring and milked coffee rasping pick up distinct cinnamon-sticked chocolate mint overtones along the way. Anise, cappuccino, chocolate liqueur, bourbon, black cherry, toasted almond and marshmallow undertones deepen its incredible complexity. A perfect nightcap!
FOUNDERS BIG LUSHIOUS CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY STOUT
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, devastatingly fine dessert treat is perfect nightcap. Like a chocolate raspberry layer cake, chocolate raspberry truffle or Black Forest cake, its sweet-toothed goodness cannot be denied. Black and brown chocolate blend perfectly with pureed raspberry tartness, receiving a thickly syrupy molasses sugaring. In the distance, burnt coffee grounds lightly embitter dark-roasted mocha malting. Beneath, vanilla, hazelnut and cocoa subtleties spread across tertiary blackberry, black cherry and blueberry fruiting. Arguably the best raspberry chocolate stout ever made. In the bottle (2020), richly creamed dark chocolate syruping drapes bittersweet raspberry tartness of luscious tan-laced mahogany-hued dessert treat. Decadent chocolate raspberry caking picks up fudged molasses, toffee, cocoa and vanilla serenity and wispy cherry-bruised dried fruiting.
ALMANAC COWBELL IMPERIAL CHOCOLATE STOUT
On tap at Ambulance Brew House, creamy mocha-bound full body raids dry dark-roasted coffee salvo with brazen black chocolate, fudge brownie, cacao nibs and cocoa powder scrum. Serene vanilla bean influence mildly embitters chocolate-malted espresso coffee finish.
STARR HILL SHAKEDOWN IMPERIAL CHOCOLATE CHERRY STOUT
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, chewy chocolate cherry cordial alternative makes fine dessert treat. Dark-roasted mocha malts create cocoa-powdered black chocolate, milk chocolate and fudge brownie illusions. Just a tad more dried fruited sweetness needed to overcome minor astringency.
STONE SMOKED PORTER CHOCOLATE & ORANGE PEEL
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, intriguing smoked porter offshoot adds dried orange peel tartness to heady full-bodied elixir. Expectant black chocolate payload picks up peat-smoked beechwood influence above black cherry-pureed orange peel subsidy. Coffee-stained Baker’s chocolate, dark cocoa, cacao nibs and chocolate cake illusions reinforce sturdy mocha theme.
(ALLTECH) KENTUCKY HONEY BARREL BROWN ALE
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, sweet bourbon-honeyed brown ale expands stylish horizons. Made in oak bourbon barrels, its brown chocolate continuance picks up dark cocoa, molasses, vanilla, toasted coconut and toffee illusions. Nutty tobacco roast found at recess, but advertised ginger influence seems nebulous.
RUSHING DUCK MANUARY BELGIAN STYLE BLACK TRIPEL
On tap at Ambulance Brew House, exemplary limited edition (January ’15) ‘black’ tripel makes fine use of brown-sugared dried fruiting. Pureed raisin, sugared fig, prune and plum overtones ride above creamy caramel-chocolate malting. Tingly sugar-spiced sweetness contrasts dry bourbon tinge, heightening the relaxedly noir-ish mood.
CARTON GILDED LILY TRIPEL
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, hybridized 2015 tripel shows off Carton’s passionate open-minded exploitation. Bringing earthen white truffle leathering and Belgian candi-sugaring to tart orange marmalade midst, this unique medium-bodied change-up suits expandable palates. Vermouth, vodka and white wine undertones detected.
BOULEVARD HARVEST DANCE WHEAT WINE
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead and aged in French oak barrels, fruity wheat-malted moderation brings sour saison-like yellow fruiting to sweeter tropical fruiting, leaving peripheral champagne-fizzed Sauvignon Blanc wining at pepper-spiced sweet ‘n sour finish. Lemon and orange rot ensure sour end while pineapple, pear, apple and peach illusions pick up sugary crystal malt creaming. Well disguised 9.5% ABV allows vermouth and vodka hints to emerge.
ALLAGASH SESSION BRETT ALE
On tap at Ambulance Brew House, soft Mosaic hop tropicalia traipses thru leathery brettanomyces-soured wild ale for truly sessionable light-bodied experience. Tart lemon and herbal lemongrass illusions pace the front end, picking up cologne-perfumed mango, guava, pineapple and papaya snips. Misty lemon zest freshness caresses the citric finish. Compost-wafted hay, straw and afalfa seep into the wispy mix.