Delightfully complex lactose stout (with frothy brown-tanned head and viscous mahogany body) loads milky brown chocolate creaminess atop nutty dried fruiting. Devil’s food-caked dark chocolate pudding entry and oats-toasted caramelized toffee impulse deepen serene mochaccino-cappuccino conflux. At midst, hazelnut, almond, cashew and honey nut illusions emboss ashen Blackstrap molasses bittering to contrast maple-sugared vanilla sweetness. Tertiary black grape, black cherry and blackberry wisp amplifies burgundy-bourbon-port wining caressing big chocolate finish consuming desirable dessert beer.
All posts by John Fortunato
BRONX PALE ALE
Straightforward medium-bodied session ale richer than most American competitors. Creamy caramelized malting and wheat biscuit toasting suffuse mild peppery hop spicing. Ancillary buttery nuttiness sidles peach, orange, pear and apple nuances. Minor alcohol burn may put off lighter thirsts.
BARRIER GREEN ROOM PALE ALE
Casual copper-hazed medium body places citric-spiced rye malting atop grassy earthen mineral graining. Bitter grapefruit-peeled ascension overrides recessive vegetal nuances. Minor astringency lowers mainstream appeal a tad.
ANDERSON VALLEY BAHL HORNIN’ MOWKEEF
On tap at Barcade, traditional straw-hued saison pleats grassy-hopped citric souring with light malt creaming. Lemony grapefruit-pitted orange rind bittering picks up earthen barnyard leathering, mild herbal spicing, and ethanol plasticene astringency, nullifying spicy ginger, coriander, and star anise adjuncts.
ALLAGASH VRIENDEN
On tap at Barcade, amiable golden-hued wild ale stays less frenzied than brewers’ Thing 1 and Confluence. Leathery citric-embittered barnyard acridity (typical of champagne-dried Belgian gueuze styling) spreads mouth-puckering brettanomyces souring all over tart lemon-juiced oaken cherry parch, piquant Granny Smith apple scruff, murky white grape esters and advertised dandelion-elderberry snip. Acetous white-wined raspberry vinaigrette rasp increases vinous vinegar vigor.
ALLAGASH VICTOR
On tap at Barcade, easygoing Belgian-styled strong ale drapes candi-sugared sweetness atop juniper-spiced lemon meringue tartness and ancillary plum-fig conflux. Fluctuant Chardonnay, Reisling and champagne wining will please vineyard socialites.
ALLAGASH THING 1
On tap at Barcade, flashy Belgian-styled pale ale brings bright lemony orange spritz to resinous grassy-hopped herbal peppering. Grapefruit-peeled bittering gains prominence over time, raising peppy citric-spiced profile and floral chrysanthemum-hibiscus-lotus nuances.
ALLAGASH BOURBON BLACK
On tap at Barcade, choice Jim Beam bourbon-barreled version of Belgian-styled dark ale known as ‘Black’ brings smooth oaken vanilla soothe to Concord grape, black grape and black cherry fruiting as well as mocha-bound barley-oats toasting. Mild bourbon-burgundy wining provides overall warmth and elegance deepening black chocolate, espresso and crème brulee nuances ascending above ancillary black-peppered star anise spicing.
ALLAGASH CONFLUENCE
On tap at Barcade, bustling amber-hazed wild ale retains mild honey-glazed crystal-malted creaming to contrast leathery brettanomyces yeast funk, dry barnyard earthiness and floral citrus tartness. Unexpectedly welcomed Band Aid-like beechwood smoking and salted peppercorn nuance coat lemony Granny Smith apple, pineapple, cherry, and grape souring. An engrossing ‘confluence’ of flavors that stay light on the tongue.
ALLAGASH FLUXUS 2011
On tap at Barcade, rounded amber-hazed French-styled farmhouse ale (a.k.a. biere de garde) not far removed from dry saison styling. Spicy citric splendor caresses sweet honey-grained backdrop. Candi-sugared Belgian yeast influence enhances white grape, green grape, green apple, oaken cherry and white peach nuances as well as peppery clove-coriander restraint above parched earthen bottom. Its abstruse moniker, Fluxus, defined as ‘continuous change,’ precisely describes this busily flavored moderate body.
ALLAGASH GHOULSCHIP 2011
On tap at Barcade, ghoulish autumnal copper-hazed wild ale retains rustic brettanomyces souring from spontaneous yeast fermentation. Dry barnyard leathering backs initial apple-soured citric tartness. At midst, Halloween-bound pumpkin-seeded toasting pleats raw molasses bittering and lemony grains of paradise acidity, contrasting subsidiary honeyed malt sweetness.