Approachable medium-bodied hop-headed 2011 autumn seasonal never overdoes resinous ‘wet-hopped’ bittering. Toasted nut-grains reinforce sugar-candied peach, pear, orange and tangerine tang above grassy hop freshness. Sugary caramelized apple waver and minimal marzipan sweetness settle beside delightful floral-spiced citric ensemble.
All posts by John Fortunato
TERRAPIN/ SHMALTZ REUNION ALE ’11
Admirable Imperial Brown Ale unites one of the southeast’s greatest brewers with long-time New York-via-California craft beer veteran for solid-bodied elixir. Advertised cocoa nibs, vanilla and chili pepper influence fine hybrid in varied ways. Cocoa nibs impart frontline milk chocolate, Baker’s chocolate and chocolate cake creaminess to sweet vanilla center. Light chili peppering adds smoky spicing to tertiary Kahlua, coconut, and hazelnut illusions.
SLY FOX GRISETTE SUMMER ALE
Rounded herbal-spiced sour-fruited Saison-styled Belgian farmhouse ale retains mild, moderate-bodied appeal. Grapefruit-peeled orange zest brightens white-peppered basil-thyme-rosemary seasoning and mint-y eucalyptus-ginger freshness to straw wheat backbone.
SMUTTYNOSE HOMUNCULUS BELGIAN STYLE GOLDEN ALE
Another fine offering from brewer’s ‘Big Beer Series,’ resembling Belgian tripel hyped up by dry-hopped American IPA schematic. On tap, peppery Belgian yeast funk and mild herbal spicing contrast bright lemony orange tang affiliating ample apricot, peach, pear and apple fruiting. Chewy candi-sugared caramel malting sweetens the load. Leathery-laced jasmine, honeysuckle, and rosebud illusions underscore syrupy pine sapping.
SMUTTYNOSE FINEST KIND I.P.A.
On tap, relaxing 2011 India Pale Ale brings casual fruited splendor to woody-hopped pine resin. Moderate grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering contrasts sweet peach, pear, and apple fruiting above leathery alfalfa, horsehair, hay, and barnyard desiccation. On tap 2015 at Mahwah Bar & Grill: tangy pineapple-mango tropicalia and light pine lacquered hop astringency found beneath bittersweet citrus punctuality. Disclaimer: brewer has used generic Smuttynose IPA handle for bottled version of this ‘finest kind,’ bud.
SHMALTZ GENESIS 15:15 BARLEYWINE
Thoroughly expressive barrel-aged barleywine takes dry-fruited pomegranate, fig, date and Concord grape adjuncts on an illustrious trip through sweet red-wined brandy-bourbon concourse and creamy Scotch malted chocolate liqueur (or Kahlua) promenade to smoky hop-roasted bittering. Simply divine.
SHMALTZ GEEKTOBERFEST ’11
Wonderfully expressive ‘Extreme Beer’ combining Shmaltz’s Jewbelation, Rejewvenation and Coney Island Human Blockhead Lager with a barrel-aged version of Ithaca Nut Brown and Captain Lawrence’s port-barreled Sour Brown Ale. On tap, busy brown-hazed sour ale merges vinous grape funk, tart cherry slunk and acidic brettanomyces gunk with oaken vanilla dryness, picking up high octane bourbon whir by dried fruited finish. Caramel, cocoa, and chocolate malting create gingerbread-marzipan sweetness to underscore ascending fig, prune, and date illusions. Wispy brandied burgundy wining adds subtle elegance.
GREENPORT HARBOR LEAF PILE PUMPKIN ALE
Though no pumpkin is used, creamy cinnamon-toasted pumpkin pie entry offers resoundingly sweet autumnal flavoring. Cardamom, nutmeg and allspice vie for ancillary attention over hop-oiled leafy foliage to rye-breaded spine.
(GREENPORT HARBOR) HARBOR ALE
Easygoing copper-cleared blue collar American pale ale retains crisp grassy-hopped citric-sliced mineral graining. Wood-dried Amarillo hop bittering tethers light mandarin orange, grapefruit, and tangerine tang to delicate cracked wheat spine.
GREENPORT HARBOR BLACK DUCK PORTER
Co
ngenial English-style porter brings dark-roasted hop bittering to soy-milked black chocolate assault, brown-sugared molasses cookie creaminess, and cocoa-powdered toffee remnant. Residual wood-burnt char deepens penetrative coffee-oiled espresso arrival. Easygoing appeal will delight dark lager heads looking to take a step up to porter-stout styling.
EMPIRE GOLDEN DRAGON
Easygoing Belgian-style golden ale made with garden-grown Thai basil retains peppery hop spicing and marinated citric pleasantries. Mild orange rind bittering, zesty lemon tartness, piquant mandarin orange dalliance and herbal lemongrass fodder provide quaint citron motif. Perfect as a crossover for light ale and fruited pilsner admirers.
CAPE ANN FISHERMANS TEA PARTY BARLEYWINE
Eccentric Extra Special Bitter-like deviation forgoes stylistic sweet barleywine fruiting for subtly smoked black-green tea bittering and ample fig-dried sugaring. Mild earthen hop toasting and Band-Aid-scented beechwood motif contrast glazed caramel malting of smooth departure. Tertiary tobacco, peat, and resin affinities further catapult unique Boston Tea Party reenactment.