All posts by John Fortunato

RIDGEWAY INSANELY BAD ELF IMPERIAL RED ALE

Dry rummy molasses entry and overripe fruiting undone by oncoming corn liquor outburst of stiff winter warmer. Bruised apricot, caramelized cherry, dried fig, navel orange, tangerine and pineapple fruiting sweeten caraway-seeded rye breading and herbal fennel snip, but nasty 11.2% alcohol coarseness will keep less adventurous yellow-bellied drinkers at bay. Serve to hardened Everclear purists. Image result for ridgeway insanely bad eldf

ROGUE XS IMPERIAL YOUNGER’S SPECIAL BITTER ALE

Though twice as strong and thrice as sinewy as Rogue Younger’s Special Bitter, this soft-watered butterscotch-hued flesh-headed Imperial version may be a tad less preferable due to eccentric peculiarities. Weird sandalwood incensing seeps into curious herbal spicing, unusual cellar-like fungi molding, and astringent iodine backdrop. Mild black-peppered orange-oiled grapefruit bittering seriously contrasts heavily viscous nature. Rogue Ales moving XS line, including new McRogue Scotch Ale, to 7 oz.  bottles | BeerPulse

SAMUEL ADAMS WHITE ALE (2010)

Mild gold-hazed Belgian-styled witbier stays sweeter than previous versions. Honeyed citrus entry places floral peach-apricot-tangerine tang and zesty lemon-squeezed sourness above astringent peppery hop fizz. Doughy white breaded backdrop soaks up pallid plum-dried orange-peeled bittering plus tertiary hibiscus, rose hips, and vanilla illusions. It’s quite approachable for lighter thirsts. Samuel Adams White Ale to return in variety pack | BeerPulse

WOLTERS FEST-BIER

Strapping bohemian pilsner versatile enough to complement hardiest Octoberfest meal. Pungent skunked malts, reminiscent of numerous Dutch beers, proffers rich grain thrust and creamy caramel cluster above penetrating grassy hop bittering for crisp mineral-watered medium-bodied precision. Amiable corn sugaring contrasts maize dried astringency. A politely defined, well-balanced German. Hofbrauhaus Wolters - Wolters Fest-Bier Tasting Notes | Beer of the Month  Club

NEW JERSEY BEER COMPANY

New Jersey Beer Company - CHICPEAJC NEW JERSEY - NORTH Trying to open a viable brewery isn’t as easy as it seems. First, there are a number of antiquated state laws to abide by, some of which are too stupid to believe. Presently, in New Jersey, brewers who bottle and can are not allowed to use facilities as a brewpub that serves food and alcohol on a daily basis. But things have improved slowly over the course of time. Ever since President Carter signed into law a rule making home brewing legal (circa 1980), many brewpubs and microbreweries have sprung up, taking a percentage of business away from feckless macrobrewers such as Budweiser, Miller, and Coors. However, each state’s individual law requirements must be adhered to before any small brewery or brewpub could set up distribution. The latest Garden State brewer, NEW JERSEY BEER COMPANY, began operations in May 2010. Though their bottling line broke down (possibly beyond repair) a short time after, the North Bergen-based enterprise still managed to put out eighty to one hundred barrels of beer per month. Most keg barrels go to statewide bars, but some could be found in liquor stores for private consumption. NJ Beer Co | NJCB | Your resource for beer in New Jersey New Jersey Beer founder, Matt Steinberg, originally went to Cornell University to become an engineer, but soon found he’d rather have a profession that would better hold his interest. At college, the Manhattan native found some appeal in the elective courses that concentrated on food, beverage, and hotel management. But he didn’t want to become a prep chef for the next fifteen years so he started home brewing during free time in his basement to create excitement. Located in a drab commercial industrial zone on 42nd Street off Tonnelle Avenue, New Jersey Beer has found its niche amongst regional customers. In fact, local teachers and their former students have found a place to reunite at the raw space. A small bar section inside the brewery provides instant access to each on-site brew. There are eight stools plus a large and regular screen TV at the black-walled bar area. Behind the stools, a medium-sized living room area with couches, leather recliner, microwave, and carpeting, allows for cozy comfort. The company’s gold and red insignia, reminiscent of Jersey’s biggest educational institute, Rutgers University, is centrally located. Yet despite the apparently obvious state school affiliation, Steinberg claims, "That’s completely coincidental. Those are also the colors of North Bergen High School. I have college friends who have a designing company in Brooklyn. I gave them very little direction. I couldn’t comprehend all the logo’s branding strengths. But I found smart people to do their own thing." Another person of interest whom Steinberg befriended was head brewer, Pete Velez, who’d worked in South Carolina for one of Gordon Biersch’s affiliated German-styled brewpubs. Though New Jersey Beer competed in Denver’s lauded Great American Brew Fest recently, its beers were in strict categories that nearly undermined the stylistic submissions Steinberg’s troupe created. Their Hudson Pale Ale was entered in the ever-widening American Pale Ale category alongside stronger hop-headed West Coast varieties and the 1787 Abbey Single had to dubiously go head-to-head with headier Belgian-styled dubbels and tripels (reviewed in Beer Index). As Steinberg pours me samples this late November afternoon, he mentions, "We wanted an approachable Pale Ale that’d be comparable to Sierra Nevada or Bass Ale, not Oskar Blues heavier, alcohol-strengthened brew. And the generic Belgian category at the Fest needs to be expanded." Settling in for a two-hour sojourn, the first libation tried, 60 Shilling Mild, a traditional English pub ale made from "the stripped down second runnings" of the brewery’s excellent Wee Heavy, worked well as an apropos moderate-bodied lead-in. A faint orange compote waft emanated from the coppery liquid, followed by a mild earthen fungi tongue and milder peat-smoked pale-crystal malting. Root vegetable notes lined its soft Columbus hop bittering. It was a nice opener for mid-afternoon consumption. Next up, 1787 Abbey Single scoffed the traditional Belgian candi-sugared mode for what Steinberg labeled "a golden sessionable ale that’s like a witbier without the wheat to take on a sunny day boat cruise or to try alongside light dishes such as sautéed whitefish and freshly barbecued scallops." Its grassy-hopped white-peppered herbal spicing lingered through rye-malted burnt orange, banana bread, and extracted vanilla illusions given a teasing ethanol burn. Steinberg applauds my flavor profiling, but cautions, "Depending on what you eat, the same beer could taste a bit different from one day to the next. Garlic or onions have a strong presence on one’s tongue and may affect the palate. I’ve had beers I hated one day and thought were great the next. Crackers are usually neutral enough not to affect the taste." Touché, my husky new friend! Nonetheless, I explain to Steinberg that cold water between swigs of beer usually sufficiently cleanses my palate and makes proceeding sips fresh as a daisy. We agree, then get ready to try the next worthy libation. Probably the truest-to-style New Jersey-brewed concoction, Weehawken Wee Heavy Scotch Ale brings expectant mesquite-smoked Scotch malting, coarse resinous hop roasting, and dewy peat graining to surging fig-dried date-sugared cocoa sweetness. Its backend alcohol burn reinforces the sullen whiskey musk, subsidiary stone fruiting, and tertiary dried tobacco drift. "I made a small batch of a bacon and Scotch-smoked malt beer," the experimental-minded Steinberg recalls. "The smoky mesquite and hickory soaked into a mixture of Scotch and water to impart a peat-Scotched aroma. But I didn’t know if it was too weird and couldn’t figure how it’d play out. It smelled delicious." Though the best-selling New Jersey brew, Hudson Pale Ale, was unavailable upon my initial visitation, I shed no tear (since it’d be ready for consumption within a week and obtainable at Ridgewood’s The Office post-haste). Besides, after quaffing a busy dark ale such as the Weehawken Wee Heavy, a richer alternative would better suffice. Arguably NJ’s best beer, the mahogany-hued mocha-defined Garden State Stout never sought to overwhelm casual drinkers even if it’s roasted hop char and espresso-coffee leanings had a sharp impulse. A milder alternative to robust stouts, its brown-sugared oatmeal raisin cookie theme deluged oily-hopped tar-like molasses bittering, sappy anise goo, and black chocolate-y cherry puree undertones. Although experienced drinkers may lean towards ‘bigger’ beers such as Garden State Stout and Weehawken Wee Heavy Scotch Ale, Steinberg admits it’s the lighter-bodied brews such as Hudson Pale Ale that reach a wider audience of mainstream consumers used to simpler American pilsner-lagers. But there will always be a small percentage of consumers willing to take a step up and at least try the fulsome variety of fertile options ‘beyond the pale.’ Steinberg concludes, "Take Brooklyn Brewery. They’re not making money off (higher profile brews) Black Ops and Sorachi Ace. They’re making money on Brooklyn Pils. That’s why they’re successful. That allows them to make crazy beers like Cuvee Noire – which are the ones I drink. But I’m only getting that chance because tons of people buy Brooklyn Lager." In order to draw more local denizens to New Jersey Brewing’s on-site bar, Steinberg offers the Founders Reserve Club, an affordable option for repeat visitors. Club membership is $100 for one growler of each four seasonals (before general public marketing), plus 20% off all tasting room pints, merchandise purchases, small-batch release samples, and T-shirts. On top of that, club members will receive invitations to all exclusive brewery events. The Garden State has continually proven its brewpubs and microbreweries could compete nationally against the toughest competition. And goddamn, the competition has improved so much in the past twenty years that it has European brewers quaking in their boots as imports suffer to maintain sales versus the heightened stateside challengers. www.njbeerco.com

BEAR HANDS IGNITE ‘BURNING BUSH SUPPER CLUB’

Arguably, the borough of Brooklyn is putting out more exciting alternative music than the rest of America put together. And now, there seems to be a pipeline going from Connecticut’s privileged Wesleyan University to the Kings County hotbed. First there was MGMT. Then came underclass pals, Bear Hands. While jointly touring, the latter band gained the kind of heightened exposure only a major trend-setting headliner like their upper classmates could ensure. Subsequently, both bands thrived beyond all expectations.

Rau, de facto leader of Bear Hands, plus fellow classmate, guitarist Ted Feldman, and punk-fueled rhythm section, Val Loper (bass) and TJ Orscher (drums), shine a flashy white light on the red hot electronic rock scene, at times recalling their Wesleyan descendants, but always staying directly on target compositionally.

Though ‘mental illness’ and ‘intraband resentment’ nearly tore the band apart early on, Bear Hands managed to get their act together, taking more than a year to assemble the magical tracks making up one of 2010’s best long-play debuts, Burning Bush Supper Club.

Growing up just outside Hartford, Rau set forth on a musical journey during college. He’d rudimentarily compose ideas on acoustic and electric guitar, growing by leaps and bounds until Bear Hands ’07 Golden EP arrived, catching nearly as much attention as their opening shows for MGMT (as well as respected Brooklyn indie scenesters, Vampire Weekend, Chairlift, and Les Savy Fav).

Abstractly bending Pet Sounds’ intriguing psych-pop designs into undefined new wave eccentricities and experimental odd mod fodder that’s strangely in line with Animal Collective or Miike Snow, Burning Bush Supper Club may borrow ample schematics, but it’s nonetheless a uniquely peculiar entity. Just check out Rau’s slightly treated alto ringing out sad serenades emulating from a dark chasm to get hooked.

Many Supper Club highlights, such as "High Society," beckon MGMT comparisons. Yet despite the obvious unbridled eclecticism, Bear Hands ultimately succeed on their own terms. On the above-mentioned cut, Rau’s anecdotal message concerning ‘my friend Frank’ sinks in solidly above an ethereal synthesized orchestration and a warmly textured guitar-echoed bass-boomed foundation with one foot shakin’ on the dance floor and the other in a hip downtown record shop.

"Tablasaurus" brings sure-footed disco-beaten embellishments to spellbinding India-bound tabla rhythms and a drifting Middle East passage in a way Bear Hands contemporaries could easily comprehend. Similarly, "Wicksey Boxing" slips into the ether as effectively as "Tall Trees," a vibrant curtail-called enchantment connecting wispy vocal surrealism ("I eat cats for their nine lives" and some nifty ‘third eye’ reference) to aerial guitar flanges and a melodic Rhodes keyboard swoop imitating an airy flute.

And though familiarized affectations abound, Rau maintains a keen sense for tantalizingly classic pop songcraft. The blurted synth bloops, angular guitar arpeggios, and machinated syncopation of "Belongings" are akin to archetypal ‘80s new wave but in no way does that undo the beautifully detailed tunefulness.

Furthermore, alarmingly rasped confection, "Blood And Treasure," would easily fit alongside anything Jane’s Addiction did in its ‘90s prime.

If that’s not enough for indie-minded heads, "What A Drag," with its sinisterly dreamy ‘goddamn long nails’ chorus and chillingly primal rawness, convolutedly befits the seafaring folk waywardness of Port O’Brien.

Look for Bear Hands to break out in a major way over the course of a few albums. They’ve only just begun to live. I spoke to Dylan Rau one cold December night.

Were your parents into music? After all, they named you Dylan.

DYLAN: They are music fans that partially named me after poet Dylan Thomas and songwriter Bob Dylan. Neither played any instruments. My dad is tone deaf. My mom could sing. I took her generic gift. They adore Bob Dylan but never had any musical interests.

Did you spend much time with MGMT at Wesleyan? "Tall Trees" and "Wicksey Boxing" are not far removed from their best electro-rock anodynes.

 

I love Oracular Spectacular. I totally played that thing out. But I’m influenced by everything I like.

What growth has there been since ‘07s Golden EP?

 

The EP we did three months into being a band. We were still in our punk rock electric guitar phase. We never played keyboards. The instrumentation was strictly guitar based with drums. In the two years since, we began experimenting with drum programming and different sound affects. I think we grew as a band naturally. We started listening to different musical trends and genres. That just came out on the record.

What does the album title, Burning Bush Supper Club, try to convey?

 

I came up with that name while we were driving through Utah. I was thinking of the Mormons and messages from God. But I don’t ascribe to any organized religion.

Are your song lyrics usually based on personal affairs of the heart?

 

Some songs are more personal than others. Sometimes I find myself writing about a character I don’t know. But sometimes it’ll clearly be about me. I try to be empathetic.

Is there a loose thematic flow to the album?

 

I don’t think there’s a true lyrical narrative to the record. The songs were written through very different time periods. It’s a real compilation of many years of my life. I think that’s also indicative of how the record sounds. All the songs sound very different than the others and it sounds weird to hear them on the same record sometimes. But I kind of like that about it.

I read online that "Crime Pays" is a personal true-to-life account.

 

I think it’s about the nature of our times. It’s almost impossible not to commit crimes. I do it everyday and pretend not to be doing it. I think that song’s universal. I used to be more of a criminal. It was a problem I had to stop.

What’s with the obsession with ‘long nails’ on "What A Drag"? Does it have to do with a romance ending?

 

I wrote that in my bathroom. Our heat got turned off and we were totally dead broke and we were bummed out. That’s where it came from.

Why do you use processed vocals throughout the album?

 

I’m self-conscious as a singer. And it’s a way to hide in my little cave. That’s part of it. Also, I listen to a lot of heavily processed music. I don’t feel a real allegiance to organic music or the halcyon days of real guitar bands. I don’t feel nostalgic for that. I try to do whatever sounds best.

"Blood And Treasure" has an Orchestral Maneuvers In The Dark or A Flock Of Seagulls ‘80s new wave vibe. Were you a fan?

 

I’d be hard-pressed to identify any new wave bands, maybe Duran Duran. But if Talking Heads are considered new wave than that’s one of my favorite bands. Our manger used to handle The Cure.

The Cure’s Robert Smith wrote intriguing melodramatic material not unlike yours.

 

Thank you so much.

Your climactic crescendos are oft-times reminiscent of neo-Classical music.

 

I’m not a technically trained guitarist. I can’t read music. Maybe I’ve learned to get emotion out of music in other ways that aren’t necessarily complex chord changes.

Do you draw inspiration from the Beach Boys multi-harmonies?

 

Absolutely. "California Girls" I can’t get enough of.

What does the future hold for Bear Hands? Are there different musical styles you’d like to explore?

We have a huge backlog of songs we’ve been waiting to record. We just wanna get back in the studio. I don’t think our technique is gonna change. I’m just psyched to do a new batch of songs.

 

CAPTAIN LAWRENCE GOLDEN DELICIOUS ALE

Tremendous sun-hazed strong ale aged in apple brandy barrels ambiguously tagged as an American tripel. Floral-tinged melon, cantaloupe, peach, and pineapple fruiting reinforces cinnamon apple pie theme of creamy butterscotch-malted slow sipper. Dry-hopped oaken vanilla pleats Scotch-sweetened brandy, bourbon, and burgundy wining, bringing elegant warmth to ripe apple-spiced center. Golden, indeed!

(NECTAR ALES) BLACK XANTUS IMPERIAL STOUT

Illustrious bourbon-barreled cedar-smoked hickory-charred full body with well-hidden 11% alcohol whir maintains creamy black chocolate froth above thick coffee bean bittering. Anise, espresso, and vanilla underscore caramel-burnt molasses-honeyed Belgian chocolate spicing. Sweet Scotch warmth mellows rich earthen peat malting. Black cherry, raisin, and fig make casual cameos. Dramatic wintry noir setting befits elegant slow sipper as recessive maple-sapped cappuccino, cognac, burgundy and port illusions scoot by voluptuous finish.

ITHACA GORGES SMOKED PORTER

Capacious beechwood-smoked malting inundates robust rauchbier-like porter. Cedar-smoked pine-burnt hickory sear provides ample cover for cured meat, glazed ham, and barbecued bacon rampage overridden by walnut-charred oats-toasted black chocolate creaming. Molasses-sapped pine-tarred black coffee roast gains strength, embittering subsidiary cocoa-dusted dried fruiting and soy-milked earthen peat soiling. Tart blackberry souring found at deep recess. Rich, creamy, mocha-driven after dinner treat.

HILL FARMSTEAD ANNA BIERE DE MIEL

Engaging yellow-cleared sour-honeyed saison (my first HF brew, 2011) uniquely blends rustic farmhouse yeast into herbal lemon tea theme. Orange compote, mandarin orange, and tangerine zest provide mild tartness to florid lavender-tulip conflux beckoning wildflower honey souring. Muted white-peppered rosemary, sage, and thyme seasoning softly confront green, black, and pekoe tea bittering. Airy white wheat backdrop stays light enough to allow citric, herbal, and floral influences to come to the fore. Image result for hill farmstead anna honey  

SHIPYARD LONGFELLOW WINTER ALE

Hearty mahogany-hued ruby-highlighted winter ale successfully combines mocha porter styling with Scottish ale for full-bodied winter ale. Mighty coffee bean frontage engages dark-spiced brown-sugared molasses-sapped peat malting. Mild, but everlasting, hop-roasted walnut bittering contrasts sweet hazelnut, butternut, and pecan illusions. Teensy black cherry fruiting, scattered cinnamon-allspice seasoning, and minor ice coffee drift fill out busy backend.