Bleary apricot-desiccated orange-rotted astringency and gluten-free-like sorghum pasting bring musty acridity to fizzy Seltzer-watered 120-calorie moderation. Thin rice cake sweetness and mild Scotch blotch linger at pallid dry-hopped finish.
All posts by John Fortunato
(HOMETOWN) NEW YORK ORIGINAL BRAND LAGER
Sweet honey-nut roasted Vienna malting and multi-grained whole-wheat breading overpower soured sorghum snip of surprisingly dark amber lager. Distant flavor profile fades fast, leaving barren nut-bread finish exposed.
SAMUEL ADAMS LATITUDE 48 I.P.A.
Though textural fruiting, malting, and hopping could be ‘upped’ for supposedly ‘unique IPA with intense hop character,’ easygoing moderate-bodied alleviator proves very approachable as crossover fare for lighter ale dabblers. Sugary crystal-caramel malting sops up strong, but subsiding, piney hop-roasted floral-herbed grapefruit-peeled bittering that’s rounded instead of sharp-edged. Heather, hibiscus, and wildflower illusions waft by ancillary apple-apricot-orange conflux. Subtle juniper nip never overstays welcome.
STONE LUKCY BASARTD
Adequately familiarized 13th anniversary celebrator combines brewers’ renowned Arrogant Bastard Ale with offshoot Double Bastard and Oaked Arrogant Bastard for respectful limited edition amber-hazed strong ale redux true Stone heads are accustomed to. Spruce-sapped brown-sugared caramel malting protrudes above resinous oaken-pined hop sharpness, grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering and dry juniper berry swipe. Peach, pear, pineapple and apricot ripeness shines through midst, gathering hazelnut-pecan-almond nuttiness. Just another typically fine, well rounded, fruit-ripened, dry-hopped India Pale Ale-styled Stoner.
HARPOON CHOCOLATE STOUT
Supreme limited edition 2010 seasonal offers sweet chocolate-kissed sensation. Dark chocolate malting elevates deep mocha penetration. Chocolate cake, crème brulee, Bailey’s Irish Cream, and chocolate liqueur illusions embellished by dry hop-charred cocoa-nutty vanilla bean bittering. Walnut-shelled hazelnut-cola sharpness seeps into French roasted coffee cove and chocolate-covered cherry treasure-trove.
ELLICOTTVILLE WINTER WITTE
Profound Belgian-American witbier initially brings abstruse herbal-citric souring to leafy green-hopped bitterness. Thereupon, mild orange-peeled juniper bittering delves into lemon-candied tartness and fluctuant lemongrass-thyme-rosemary herbage. Dark floral hibiscus-chamomile thicket seeps into raw-honeyed molasses sapping that sticks to the tongue before dank alcohol burn emerges. As it warms, red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, and raspberry fruiting reaches the summit.
BROOKLYN SORACHI ACE
Busily effervescent straw-hued meringue-headed moderate-bodied saison brings sour citric-quince salience to large herbaceous profile. ‘Spicy lemon zest’ aromatics and re-fermented champagne yeast reinforce Granny Smith apple, tangerine, clementine, and wild berry nuances bubbling under salty white-peppered basil-rosemary-thyme-sage seasoning. Honeyed malt sweetness contrasts tart curried fruiting, mild lemongrass-eucalyptus surge, and dry farmhouse ale penchant for weedy wild oats, alfalfa, fennel, and barnyard parchedness. Mulling-spiced cardamom, nutmeg and clove find tertiary space.
BECK’S ORIGINAL-BRAUEREIABZUG
Very little is known about obsolete whiskey-wafted Caribbean Island-acquired German brew. Aged seven years in clear-toned red-labeled 12-ounce bottle, uncommon Bavarian pilsner-lager transcends typical stylistic boundaries a bit with its vintage Scotch Ale twist and sneaky alcohol whir. Mild and rounded vermouth-dried Chardonnay buttering lingers softly to caramelized fig-sugared apple-candied apricot-nectar whim. Try in lieu of dessert wine, if you can find ‘em anywhere.
ALLAGASH INTERLUDE 2010
Complexities abound for 2010 version of French Merlot-aged sour ale (a.k.a. American wild ale) that effectively utilizes Belgian- originated lambic-styled spontaneous fermentation. Piquant farmhouse yeast brettanomyces affects oaken grape dryness, leathery wet-grassed bark-dried barnyard funk, and dry herbal innuendo. Tart raspberry souring and sharp cider astringency slip into champagne-flowed white-wined pucker. Ancillary Bosc pear, green apple, persimmons, pomegranate, plum, and fig illusions absorb oaken vanilla acridity to dark-spiced tea-like backdrop.
ATWATER UBER URSA IMPERIAL PILSNER
On tap, easygoing golden-hazed moderation brings soft crystal-malted lemon-sugared entry to supple grapefruit-peeled peach-apricot-tangerine tang. Delicate vegetal undertones relegated by endearing spice-hopped yellow-fruited niche.
BALASHI LIMITED BREW
Efficient, if thin, Caribbean-styled pilsner retains toasted oats breading and mild baguette buttering to tidy salty-hopped corn-dried bottom. Zesty lemon spicing adds brisk crispness to clean-tasting session beer.
BALASHI PILSENER
Not far removed from styptic herb-embittered dry-grained 80 Shilling Scottish Ale or bland baquette-like Copper Ale, this medium-bodied pilsner-lager may be somewhat robust, but cardboard-like rye-breaded pungency, corn-husked brown rice musk and dirty vegetal earthiness skulk subsidiary sulfuric skunking. Desalinated tap water brings slight saltine hint. Richer and headier than Aruba brewery’s ‘Limited Brew’ as well as most lighter-bodied Caribbean beers, but dirtily vegetal and ultimately less rewarding.