Decent mahogany-hued flesh-headed smoked porter benefits from milky dark chocolate roast but frail maple-singed coffee-stained hop-charred coarseness, minor black grape-cherry-apricot fruiting, and sweet vanilla ice-creamed dab seem expendable – unable to provide sufficient backup to pine-smoked burgundy wisp. A desiccated chocolate milkshake.
All posts by John Fortunato
BROWN’S WHISKEY BARREL AGED PORTER
Enormous whiskey-dried warmth muted by dark-roasted caramel malting and hop-charred oaken vanilla nicety. Shockingly low 5.7% alcohol makes presence felt as cherry jubilee, chocolate cake, and buttered cocoa illusions reach boozy bourbon finish. Nutty restraint softens coffee-burnt plum-anise latency. Perfect for softhearted slow-sipping snifter snobs as well as light porter aficionados.
LIARS ANGUS ANDREW TRIES SURVIVING CITY OF ANGELS’ ‘SISTERWORLD’
Rangy world-traveling Australian-reared vocalist-guitarist Angus Andrew came to America in the ‘90s, settling in New York City to form the Liars with a few aspiring local musicians. Now residing in the Los Angeles area betwixt Venice Beach native, Aaron Hemphill (guitar-synths), and Highland Park resident, Julian Gross (drums), Angus recently moved out of his second floor apartment (atop a medical marijuana dispensary) after a few dangerous crimes informed the Liars latest undertaking, Sisterworld. Yet these post-punk revivalists have always relied on volatile discordance to put across their decadent missives.
The precariously satirical title of 2001 debut, They Threw Us In A Trench And Stuck A Monument On Top, matched caustic deconstructive dissonance to superstitious anecdotal phantasms. A primal inaugural effort less formally structurally than each subsequent studio session, the Liars debased abstractions struck a chord within Brooklyn’s thriving avant ‘no-wave’ underground community. Dense lo-fi production and a distant sonic tonicity give this ambitious prelude a deliberately askew design. Angus’ vengeful boast, ‘we’ve got our finger on the pulse of America,’ is part braggadocio confidence and part tongue-in-cheek snicker. His static-y disfigured vocal snarls, purposely buried in the muddy mix, plow forth with ranting rage. Clamorous pings, pangs, clinks, and clangs reinforce the percussive clamor forcefully heightening the downcast fervor.
Original bassist Pat Noecker and drummer Ron Albertson (replaced by Gross) left by the second full-length, a cataclysmic noise-rock affair inspired by European witchcraft and filled with inharmonious calamities. Recorded in a supposedly haunted New Jersey cabin, the twisted poetic bloodlust, cacophonous electrode bleats, and discombobulating disconnect prodding They Were Wrong, So We Drowned left wandering indie rock heads bewilderedly bewitched.
Relocating to Berlin, Germany, the Liars pit drums against electronic noise on ‘04s Drum’s Not Dead, where Angus, Aaron, and Julian create a fictional thematic thread connecting mysterious catacombs to cathartic eruptions on an ominously subterranean journey beyond the abyss. Big toms and clicking percussion inundate spellbinding cinematic drama, “A Visit From Drum” and wiry guitar shimmers through death-marched grumble, “Be Quiet Mt. Heart Attack.” Transcendent Africano dirge, “It Fit When I Was A Kid,” and tribal bass-drummed mantra, “Hold You Drum,” append the allegoric calamity.
The Liars then headed to L.A. and brought back the nervy delirium of their earlier recordings on a bravely whimsical self-titled ’07 album containing more perceptive lyrical notions than previous endeavors. Starting with the menacing organ-bleated guitar-frazzled drum-charging “Plaster Casts Of Everything” and moving on to the psychedelic fuzz tones infiltrating “Sailing To Byzantium,” this retro-styled dance punk maneuver found the investigative trio broadening horizons while finding a convenient middle-ground between melodic accessibility and abstruse digressions.
Soon living atop a La Brea marijuana dispensary, Angus received all the inspiration he needed from the criminal activities taking place below his loft apartment. A security guard he knew was killed. Then, a few souls with the Jaws Of Life tried stealing a weed dispenser. Later on, Angus’ apartment got sledge-hammered by an unknown pot bandit. These gloomy real life misadventures instigate the eerie upheavals heard on jarringly penetrating prog-rock depressant, Sisterworld. For the first time, cello, violin, as well as bassoon (by Angus’ girlfriend, Mary Pierson, of the High Places), bring orchestral anxiety to the Liars severe guitar-bass-drum landscape.
Right off the bat, storming lead cut, “Scissor,” explodes outward as buzzing six-string, rumbled bass, and slashing cymbals abut lilting Beach Boys harmonies until its murky neo-Classical organ meltdown diverts the phantasmagoric dread. Nearly as combatively incensed, chilly diatribe, “Scarecrows On A Killer Street,” stammers along a clamorous Industrial setting as bleak as the City Of Angel’s seedy underside. The slow-burned string fervor of “No Barrier Fun” and the trippy piano sullenly soldering depression-bound nightmare, “Drip,” counter the louder ramshackle outbreaks with low key atmospherics. And unison reassuring chant, “I Can Still See An Outside World,” begs to escape urban grief in one seismically foreboding whirlwind.
Since you’ve lived on both Coasts, how does Los Angeles compare to New York City?
ANGUS: When you talk about Manhattan and compare the two cities, even geographically, the idea of L.A. is so difficult to grasp. It’s downtown, many areas are just homeless shelters in this big sprawl.
AARON: You wanna go to New York to experience people being rude and in your face. You’re gonna move into a shit hole with roaches and the pizza guy’s gonna call you a fuck head, but he’s gonna get your order right. You’re prepared because you know it’s tough. Out in L.A., it’s the exact opposite. The weather’s nice. You could get a job standing in front of a camera. When we moved here, you’re amazed when you order a coffee and bagel and the guy asks if you want sun-dried tomatoes. You’re like, “What the hell is this?’ Whereas in L.A., the greater majority of what you experience is, ‘You want sun-dried tomatoes with that?’ It’s so gigantic from top to bottom it’s a two hour drive.
ANGUS: It’s the cars and the freeway. The way the city works has more to do with America than it does in Europe. It’s fascinating. It’s an arrow everyone looks to in order to see where everything is going. It’s pretty frightening.
ANGUS: It’s about a dream I had about coming home and my girlfriend’s cut herself with scissors. The kick of it is how I reacted. It wasn’t heroic. I felt incapable of dealing with it and had no powerful, admirable reaction. I sat there and let it happen. At the end, she wasn’t actually dead. If she had died, she wouldn’t see how badly I reacted to her death. The fact that she was alive and witnessed it all made me feel doubly worse.
AARON: That song took forever to make and doesn’t sound very complicated. But the little cello-violin breakdown was written on guitar in Prague. It’s actually titled in incorrect English as a paranoiac response.
ANGUS: This was our first chance to takes the melodies further by experimenting with strings.

ANGUS: We got fed up with the idea of people seeing our records as more of an intellectual endeavor that had more to do with the concept than the music itself. We do a whole years’ worth of interviews to hear ‘Who’s Drum and who’s Heart Attack’ (referring to Drum’s Not Dead). It felt like we were talking about a lot of stuff we didn’t need to reveal so much. With the self-titled album, we worked on completely stripping away all meaning from our songs and throw them together to see what it felt like. It was a great experiment. But we realized we appreciated doing a project as a whole in terms of conceptualism. It brought back some of the raw, manic freneticism of yore – but more discernible song ideas.
Our records are all different. But we’re more interested in songs and the language. In the past, we avoided the traditional way of putting things together. But when you allow yourself to – especially if you haven’t done it before – play a Blues riff, it feels amazing. You think, ‘Wow. Maybe Jimmy Page did this once.’ You feel some connection. Before, we seemed to be severing all attempts to create our own sound. This time, we connected with our past and what we like about music and that carried over to this record. The idea of songs is important to us. It’s quite experimental for us to work on a song and its structure as opposed to when we first started and it was all about the sound.
ANGUS: At seventeen, after high school, I left home to go to the Big Apple, where I felt it was the center of the world. My early influences were nothing spectacular. I didn’t have an appreciation for music until I met Aaron. I was always intimidated by musicianship and hadn’t been introduced to a more artistic side of creating it. The band, Suicide, was so awesome. That way of approaching things where it didn’t have to be perfect was where I was coming from
JULIAN: I was born in what is now a scientology building. I grew up in Venice not far from where Aaron now lives. I also loved West Coast music, like Suicidal Tendencies, as a kid. I remember them before I even knew their music. I remember the hats and how people dressed. Iron Maiden was another huge one in elementary school.
AARON: I think more about doing music kinetically. If you could imagine your body movements when you approach your instrument, generally the sound will match. If you approach a guitar with a rigid posture, the sound is like DNA’s Arto Lindsay. Whereas, Jimi Hendrix’s kinetic motions are smooth and buttery and the sound is effortless. With drumming, especially, there’s a direct kinetic relationship with a bunch of objects and the pattern which you approach it, if you flip it, it’s more naïve to create a different pattern from stylistic whims.
ANGUS: Primal drumming’s instinctive. You don’t need a musicology degree to hit it hard or hit it soft.
-John Fortunato
DOGFISH HEAD MY ANTONIA PILS
Originally brewed in collaboration with Italy’s Birra Del Borgo, this busy adjunct pilsner may seem pricey but it’s enticingly original. Immediate candi-sugared yellow-fruited impetus receives herbaceous floridity above grain-roasted spunk. Bitter grapefruit rind tartness lingers through resinous black-peppered juniper slipstream countering honey-glazed peach-nectarine-pineapple tang. Wafting dark floral seduction accentuates herbal fruit-spiced theme.
BARON RAUCHBIER
Seattle’s Pillagers Pub offered satiny fresh-watered beechwood-smoked kiln-malted German-styled moderation. Fizzy hop-pepped lemon twist underscores evaporative salami-smoked cedar-charred maple-cindered soot. But ‘baron’ smoky resilience upended by sudsy soapiness as the bottle drains. Too soft and unassuming, but never offensive. Crisp, clean springtime session beer may be under-whelming for true traditionalists, but eminently approachable to others.
ANCHOR STEAM HUMMING ALE
Celebrating sensational microbrewer’s milestone anniversary with bold hoppy pale ale, this voluptuous full body offers luxurious fruited sweetness, buttery caramel creaminess, and expansive floral potpourri. Lemony grapefruit-peeled apple-peach-pear tang usurps earthen herbage and grassy-hopped pining to cereal grained bottom. Crisp clean-fruited finish retains bright zest.
FEGLEY’S MONKEY WRENCH SAISON ALE
Slow-sipping wine-like Saison brings candi-sugared Belgian-styled fungi yeast funk to sudsy hop-fizzed foaming. Buttery Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc esters override cherry-pureed white grape snip and teasing lemon meringue sourness, reaching zesty grapefruit summit.
(CLIPPER CITY) HEAVY SEAS SIREN NOIRE IMPERIAL CHOCOLATE STOUT
Robust English-styled Imperial Stout fermented by Belgian chocolate nibs retains dark-fruited cocoa-malted pungency. Creamy chocolate-smoked vanilla sweetness and fig-dried cherry-pureed black grape midst deepened by counteractive deep-grained hop-charred coffee-roasted bittering. Increasingly ascending anise adhesion gains prominence above dry burgundy whir. But sharp alcohol harshness and minor oxidation seeps into the mix, depleting tertiary chocolate bombe, chocolate éclair, espresso, and cola nut splendor.
TERRAPIN GAMMA RAY WHEAT WINE
Luxuriant 10.8% alcohol-lacquered golden-hazed German weiss nearly perfect as strong summer seasonal. Honey-soaked clove-spiced banana liqueur opening picks up bright lemon-candied blueberry perk for prickly floral-hopped white rum sedation and sweet butterscotch-vanilla creaminess. Banana taffy finish and tertiary pineapple-apricot fruiting knock back sharp alcohol whir.
FEGLEY’S ALLENTOWN BREW WORKS
ALLENTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA
Perched up in the Lehigh Valley just a few miles from older sister brewpub, Bethlehem Brew Works, FEGLEY’S ALLENTOWN BREW WORKS opened 2007 in the center of an old industrial steel town still reeling from hard times but definitely on the rebound.
A cavernous upscale midtown restaurant-brewery known for good food and fine beer, this pristine four-story facility features a prominent 16-seat right side bar with large brown-gold trimmed glass mural and two TV’s, several scattered brew tanks (front-windowed and bar sidled), L-shaped blue metal lodge terrace, and umbrella-decked Der Biergarten.
Aluminum-lettered brown-outlined sign greets patrons to café-styled tavern area (where pictures of President Obama quaffing an amber-hued brew on premises during the campaign trail are showcased). Banquet space and lounge areas consume the upper floors.
Amongst old brick buildings scrunched together, Fegley’s currently supplies nearby Coca Cola Ballpark with original brews. A small bottling machine with several house brews serves take-out patrons and local delis.
Alongside Americana lunch consisting of hummus and crusted chicken potpie, my wife and I consumed brewer Beau Baden’s lighter offerings for starters.
Dry lime-peeled lemon-puckered soft-hopped blue agave-finishing Loco Lime Light Lager, phenol grassy-hopped maize-dried grapefruit-embittered vegetal-grazed Pig Pen Pilsener, and soothing moderate-bodied Belgian-styled Curacao orange-peeled chamomile-herbed coriander-spiced Steelgaarden Wit were dainty openers.
Sweetly soured blueberries consumed tart raspberry-cranberry fruiting and cracked wheat spine of Blueberry Belch, a light dessert treat more approachable than lemony lime-puckered brimstone-soured lemongrass-grouted raspberry spritzer, Space Monkey Raspberry Saison.
Better choices included lemon-wedged fizzy-hopped banana-soured clove-sweetened Hefeweizen and soft-watered hop-roasted oats-toasted coffee-burnt cocoa-dried Pawn Shop Porter.
West Coast-styled hop-head delight, Hop Explosion, brought pine-barked grapefruit rind bittering to tart candi-sugared lemon-dried sourness.
Best bet: creamy brown-sugared caramel-malted tropical-fruited Hop’solutely Triple IPA, a less bitter stylistic changeup dousing floral-spiced apple-candied peach, pear, mango, and tangerine fruiting above resinous hemp-hopped nuttiness.
Bought bottled versions of Fegley’s Bagpipers Scotch Ale, Monkey Wrench Saison, Insidious Imperial Stout, and above-mentioned Space Monkey Raspberry Saison for the road (reviewed in Beer Index).
BERWICK BREWERY
BERWICK, PENNSYLVANIA
Located on the northwesterly side of the Poconos uphill from the Shenandoah River, BERWICK BREWERY (formerly One Guy Brewing) takes up nearly half the space of an old red brick-warehoused bakery in a sleepy light industrial village. An hour down Route 80 West off exit 256, at the Poconos northernmost range uphill from the windy Susquehanna River, the sleepy industrial village of Berwick maintains a blue collar Industrial setting.
Bordering a used car dealership, its main attraction is the large wooden pavilion Biergarden overlooking the river and idle railroad line (hosting live entertainment on weekends). Inside, a small tasting room with right side bar served brewer Kyle Kalanick’s beer recipes and local Spyglass Ridge Winery’s peach, pear, blueberry, and Reisling wines. Brew tanks in a staging area behind the bar stored four suitable suds and one fantastic IPA.
I initially visited this dank cafeteria-styled watering hole on the Fourth of July, 2010, settling in at the large wooden pavilion behind the small tasting rooms. Brewer Kyle Kalanick’s favorable beer recipes went well with delicious homemade pizzas and local Spyglass Ridge wines sufficed.
Enjoyed creamy, tropical-juiced, grapefruit-peeled Atomic Punk IPA, orange-bound, banana-cloved Front Street Wheat and rye-breaded, pumpernickel-loafed Hondo Keller over resinous citric-fizzed Arden Amber.
Sitting in Berwick’s tranquil Biergarten on the Fourth of July, 2011, I enjoyed a few delicious homemade pizzas with my wife, youngest son, Chris, and Long Island cousins while imbibing each sample (also available on tap at several Philadelphia area bars).
Doughy caramel-malted wheat-honeyed citric-dried hop-softened Berwick Lager and citric-dried hop-resinous rye-molasses-finishing Arden Amber Ale sufficed.
Better were two German-styled offerings: rye-breaded pumpernickel-loafed fungi-earthen floral-accented Hondo Keller Bier and wispy fizz-hopped orange-sliced cider-splashed banana-clove-softened hefeweizen, Front Street Wheat.
Highly recommended Atomic Punk IPA perfectly countered creamy caramel malting and surging peach-pear-pineapple tang with piney alcohol-burnt grapefruit-peeled juniper bittering.
Returning to Berwick on a misty springtime mid-afternoon April ’11, my wife settled into lemon-spiced, honey-creamed, orange-candied mainstay Berwick Lager while I delved into three moderate dark beers. Due to nightshift construction, the brewery’s recently been opening at 6:30 AM.
A few stragglers are finishing up as we imbibed three dark ales at one of the dozen elongated orange tables. Dark roasted malts consumed coffee-stained, cocoa-dried, oats-charred Grumpy Bill’s Porter, milk chocolate-y, coffee-burnt, Kahlua-tinged Barleytown Irish Dry Stout, and coffee-oiled, cherry-soured, mocha-chalked Foxy Stout. All together, another nice go-round at this discreet little dive.
DOGFISH HEAD SAISON DU BUFF
Brewed in conjunction with established microbrewers Stone and Victory, heady yellow-hazed Saison salutes Simon & Garfunkle’s popular ’66 album with parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme herbage. Creamy caramelized rye breading reaches herbaceous black-peppered rosemary summit above lemon-seeded grapefruit-peeled bittering that lingers to caraway-seeded harsh-grained finish. Dry earthen barnyard blanch, dark floral potpourri, and fennel-like respite add depth to everlasting tangerine tang of interesting 2010 sidestep. 2012 tapped version brought lemon-rotted orange peel tang to candi-sugared saffron, oats-dried minerality and grassy-hopped spicing.