Snappy dry ginger ale theme addles pale-bodied golden-hazed moderation. Mild mandarin orange peel bittering, persistent kaffir lime tartness, and tangy lemon zest counteract fizzy ginger sweetness. Oncoming eucalyptus freshness seeps into overwhelming citric souring and cloying white-sugared soda-like rue. Loses some carbolic champagne-like sparkle after initial thrust.
All posts by John Fortunato
MIKKELLER BEER GEEK BREAKFAST (SPEYSIDE EDITION)
GREEN FLASH PALATE WRECKER IMPERIAL I.P.A.
On tap, raspy wood-smoked pine-needled resin-hopped bittering pungently reinforces front-loaded juicy-fruited glisten. Lusty floral bouquet enhances tart grapefruit peel veneer as well as apple-ripened pineapple, mango, banana, passion fruit, and kiwi tropicalia. Gin-soaked juniper berry harshness and sharp alcohol bite never exceed creamy malt richness, giving this a deeper resonation than most in its highly exalted IPA class.
POINT BURLY BROWN AMERICAN BROWN ALE
Lacking the brawny brashness, but not the steely metallic pungency, of its ‘burly’ descriptive, this coarsely phenol brown ale gets mired in sour nuttiness. Grain-burnt peanut-shelled walnut char coats resinous hop astringency, overwhelming chalky mocha malting. Bitter rough-edged nutty finish falters.
POINT EINBOCK
Pleasant Vienna-styled caramel-malted grain-roasted sweetness heightens red apple, cherry, peach, and melon fruiting that fades too quickly into phenol recess. Wood-dried floral-spiced hops and teasing grapefruit rind tartness subtly embitter fruited front end. Mildewed fig-prune souring and puckering white grape tartness fill the back end. But better maibock lagers have sweeter malt residue, brighter nectar juiciness, and bitterer hop counteraction for truer springtime ambience.
FLYING DOG GARDE DOG BIERE DE GARDE
In the bottle, moderate-bodied French-styled biere de garde lacks originality, complexity, and character. In need of deeper rye malt penetration and rounder sour-fruited enhancement, this wavering golden-hazed farmhouse ale cannot properly follow-up likable bruised orange souring. Lemon pith, green apple, and apricot illusions lose luster as juniper berry bitterness gains prominence. Precarious dry-spiced tingle barely registers. On tap, light white-peppered hops prickle salty lemon-limed orange-grapefruit rind bittering and herbal nuances of veritable session beer.
SOUTHAMPTON BIERE DE MARS
On tap, French-styled copper-toned medium-bodied Bier De Garde spreads honey-roasted malts across sugar-spiced fruited plain and funky cellared yeast pungency. White-peppered grassy-hopped bittering reinforces acidic champagne-like white grape and green apple tartness illuminated by nectarine-peach-tangerine-mango tang. Sour-fruited midst receives sweet cinnamon-coriander spicing and tertiary sherry-burgundy wining that tames gin-soaked ethanol luster.
BLUE MOON GRAND CRU
Balmy limited edition Belgian-styled witbier aged and sold as boozy Grand Cru brings tangy white-peppered yellow fruiting to frisky coriander spicing of yellow-hazed medium body. Tart orange-peeled lemon-bruised white grape proliferation enhances creamy butterscotch, vanilla, and banana liqueur whir as tertiary peach, pear, and cinnamon apple illusions receive gin-soaked candi-sugared sweetening. Though opulent peculiarities mesh well, its understated warmth and overall richness deteriorate over time.
WEDDING PRESENT’S DAVID GEDGE ENTERS THE ‘BIZARRO’ WORLD
Perhaps taking lessons learned from the Pixies, the Wedding Present steadily developed a bouncier pop step and heightened insouciant flare to hedge against the elevated lovesick melancholia their next few full length recordings fully exposed. Seamonsters’ dissonant sonic rumble, “Lovenest,” and murkily feedback-drenched flange, “Carolyn” (plus Hit Parade’s scoffed-up revving of the Monkees’ breezy “Pleasant Valley Sunday”) also deployed a headier grunge-informed pounce.
“Actually, Seamonsters was recorded months before we knew grunge had hit big. The reason it sounds that way is grunge producer, Steve Albini, whose work on the Pixies breathtakingly wonderful Surfer Rosa I’m a big fan of,” Gedge admits. “We were probably trying to get away from the jangly Velvet Underground sound and become rockier. That ambition and Albini’s skills made it sound like one of the early grunge records – very aggressive, very intense.”
Thereafter, ‘94s Watusi widened Gedge’s musical range further, placing acoustic 6-string and piano into the scratchy circular lullaby “Spangle” and debonair ballad “Gazebo” while utilizing climactic multi-part harmonies for joyously surging Farfisa-based chant “Yeah Yeah Yeah Yeah Yeah.” Furthermore, he burns down the house on ass-shakin’ spitfire scrum, “Shake It.”
Gedge claims, “Watusi was a very strange album in a way. A lot of folks don’t like it. It’s different – a sidestep away from the wall of noisy guitars. It was more pop with a nod to retro ‘60s pop, surf, and a cappella. It’s experimental in many ways. But I don’t want to make the same album over again like some bands. That’s stultifying.”
Although ‘96s Saturnalia paled in comparison, wispy-voiced euphony, “2,3 Go,” and soothingly uplifting postcard, “Montreal” are topnotch, offering a convenient holding pattern.
Along with ex-girlfriend Sally Murrell, Gedge took another sidestep with the equally rewarding band, Cinerama, whose ’98 debut, Va Va Voom, brought an orchestral restraint to melodic flights of fancy. Then, ‘05s Take Fountain, originally slated as Cinerama’s fourth album, became Wedding Present’s triumphant re-entry, re-igniting the excitingly fast-paced 3-chord scurry of yore. Three years hence, the rampaging follow-up, El Rey, further substantiated Gedge’s prolific career.
“By Take Fountain, Cinerama had changed. The first album was very poppy, reliant more on keyboards and orchestration than guitar. They evolved into more guitar-based music, which I love.” He adds, “That filtered its way back into the arrangements. It went back to our original Wedding Present sound. We did a London session with the late John Peel for BBC radio, came in as Cinerama and they said, ‘David, it sounds more like Wedding Present.’ We used to have string sections and trumpets, but went back to just guitars. People would’ve been disappointed if it was a Cinerama LP. It created confusion so we switched back.”
Never losing focus on what’s most important – making aggressive music out of a few concise chords and well-constructed arrangements – Gedge continues to get sheer joy creating a harrowing frenzy. His splashy guitar assaults, bolstered by rail-bending bass and rat-a-tat drum patter, are easily digested, if oft-times skewed by quirky dissonant reverb.
Presently splitting time living in England’s southerly coastal town of Brighton and oceanic California haven, Santa Monica, I spoke to the inimitable Gedge during a snowy winters’ day in February.


KUHNHENN MAYHEM BELGIAN DARK ALE
Lavish candi-sugared Belgian-styled dark ale much closer to warm barleywine. Rich orange-bruised cherry puree uprising, sweet caramel apple bounty and tertiary banana-pineapple-mango tropicalia enhance whiskey-slurred bourbon-burgundy-brandy boozing. Brown chocolate-spiced continuance heightens rum-soaked raisin, plum, fig, and date fruiting. Luscious dessert treat is perfect as a nightcap.
FLYING DOG RAGING BITCH BELGIAN-STYLE INDIA PALE ALE
Complex 20th Anniversary commemorator lacks true wild-flowered Belgian-styled yeast funk, but benefits from sharp citric essence. Tangy nectarine, peach, tangerine, pink grapefruit, and red grape sweetness invigorates abrasive spruce-tipped green hop compression of ‘untamed’ medium body. Zesty pineapple-mango-melon-papaya tropicalia contrasts black-peppered orange peel and lemon rind bitterness seeping into creamy candi-sugared crystal malting to honeyed wheat spine. Wispy jasmine, lilac, and fresh mint waft through fruitful hophead delight.
PORTSMOUTH BLACK CAT STOUT
Smooth medium-bodied mahogany-hued Irish-style dry stout proves quite versatile. Full-blown mocha frontage surges past burgundy-bourbon boozing bracing sticky anise-seeded dalliance and black coffee coda. Black cherry souring, ester-y grape tartness, brassy walnut singe, and latent charcoal burn embitter hop-oiled oats-smoked cocoa malting to earthen peat bottom.