Washed-out aluminum-hued dry-bodied lightweight ruined by tinny corn-oiled rice wine souring and nasty cider-y finish; leaving tinny aftertaste. Nasty stuff.
All posts by John Fortunato
LAGUNITAS GNARLYWINE
Glorious slow sipping 11% alcohol-fueled dessert treasure (limited ’09 release) dazzles the senses with well-balanced nature and fascinating complexity. Ripe cherry, bruised orange, and brown banana illusions enliven chewy brown chocolate-y molasses creaminess rising above cotton-candied dark-spiced floral-hopped midst. Medicinal cognac-bourbon warmth brings finish to fruition.
HOOK & LADDER NO. 2 LIGHTER
Anyone for salted pretzels or buttery popcorn? This light-bodied lager suffers from doughy nothingness and astringent corn-maize nature. Faintest butterscotch-marzipan flicker saves lightly toasted malt finish. Contract brewed for Maryland’s Hook & Ladder.
HOFSTETTEN KUBELBIER
Spry orange-peach mist and sharp-hopped mineral graining enrich cloudy amber moderate-bodied zwickel (an unfiltered bottom-fermenting German-styled lager). Baked bread-y sourdough finish almost conceals tidy butterscotch sweetness.
HOFSTETTEN GRANITBOCK
Chewy molasses-soaked raisin-pureed stewed prune opening enriches dark-spiced brown-sugared chocolate malt sweetness of robust doppelbock. Honeyed nut, almond, pecan, and hazelnut illusions gather along tertiary port-whiskey slip.
THE BRUERY TRADE WINDS TRIPEL
Elegant beige-headed bronze-hazed bottle-conditioned Belgian-styled tripel drifts in and out of stylistic deluges with mostly positive results. Thai basil and rice provide lightly spiced Southeast Asian appeal to creamy full body. Polite white-peppered orange peel bittering counters sharp prune-fig souring, chewy banana liqueur illusion, and fleeting clove-coriander-allspice wisp at busy midst. Tertiary honeysuckle, peppercorn, and lemongrass influence intertwines tangy tangerine-peach-pear sweetness. Slight alcohol-burnt finish allows cinnamon cider, burgundy, and white wine illusions to seep in softly.
SLY FOX WGV PALE ALE
WGV stands for Whitbread Goldings Variety, a dry hop style worthily informing this soothing moderate body. Tingly dry-spiced lemon-grapefruit rind mildness embitters steadfast tea-like malting, grassy earthen musk, and minor tobacco nuance. Woody hops absorb citric acidity.
SOUTHERN TIER IMPERIAL INIQUITY BLACK ALE
Well-integrated velvety smooth dark ale maintains mocha-driven piney fruited complexity. Maple molasses-sapped caramel malts infiltrate chocolate-covered raisin, black cherry, spiced rum and sugar plum illusions. A hint of bourbon or burgundy fills out recessive coffee easement.
OTTER CREEK WORLD TOUR OTTER MON JAMAICAN-STYLE STOUT
Slick ink black milk stout brings stove-burnt coffee souring to light chocolate-caramel roast. Dark spices, vanilla extract, and anise fill out oats-charred backdrop, but peppery hop astringency and harsh nuttiness overwhelm sugar-caned mocha aspect.
SARANAC IRISH RED ALE
Aromatic caramel-toffee sweetness disrupted by faded floral hop astringency that delicately fizzles out. Abbreviated toasted graining, muted mocha wisp, and blah orange-apple-peach tang barely inform ill-defined metallic finish.
OTTER CREEK WORLD TOUR SPHINX MULTIGRAIN ALE
Toot-sweet Egyptain-styled multi-grained pale ale ‘brewed with honey and chamomile’ finds both advertised adjuncts hitting their mark firmly. Anticipatory honey-dripped affluence slowly picks up tea-like subsidy overrun by pasty marzipan-butterscotch creaminess and warm almondine illusion. Astringent hop coarseness and minor diacetyl buttering cut into mild ginger-snapped cinnamon-nutmeg interlude.
DEFIANT BELGIAN-STYLE TRIPEL ALE
Well-defined chartreuse-hazed witbier not far removed from Ommegang’s impressive Abbey ales matches herbaceous farmhouse nature to yellow-fruited souring, dark-spiced sweetness, and earthen mineral graining. Sour lemony banana blitz receives candi-sugared apricot glaze and clove-spearmint-green tea tingle reinforced by mild white-peppered hop bittering.
