ORCHARD PARK, NEW YORK
In charmingly rustic Orchard Park, three miles from Buffalo Bills football stadium, MAC’S VILLAGE BREWHAUS (formerly Eddie’s Brewpub) was closed during our early afternoon July ‘05 stop. Located in smallish exterior-bricked bowling alley, Orchard Park Lanes, its brew tanks were seen from front windows (below red-green-blue awning). Its blue collar bowling vibe and reasonable pub food would probably please the general public.
BUFFALO, NEW YORK
East of Buffalo in the mall area of Williamsville lies colonial-styled BUFFALO BREWPUB, visited July ‘05. Embellished by a bronze bison atop the entrance, this gray, stone-based brewery had a right side elongated oak bar, far left glass-enclosed brew tanks, and a dining area with widescreen television and discarded peanut shells strewn across the floor. Diverse entrees included burgers, sandwiches, etc.
Limited beer menu had red-fruited tea-honeyed Amber Ale, lemony peach-soured orange-dried Buffalo Bitters, wheat-cracked hop-spritzed Buffalo Lager, and estery grape-soured cherry-tart raisin-dried fig-soured porter-styled Nickel City Dark Ale.
BUFFALO, NEW YORK
After site seeing at Niagara Falls (and visiting tiny Niagara Falls Brewing Company), shuffled off to Buffalo, finding friendly Flying Bison Brewing, whose owners gave me samples via half-gallon jugs (reviewed in Beer Index) for the ride home, July ’05. Also, three disparate brewpubs lined the area surrounding this northerly New York metropolis. I began journey with family in the heart of the city.
In Buffalo’s downtown area within walking distance of Buffalo Bisons minor league stadium and Sabres hockey arena is mighty fine PEARL STREET GRILL & BREWERY (since 1999).
Located inside an old red brick building with yellow columns, maroon trim, and outdoor patio, its prohibition era ambiance is truly impressive. Formerly a dress factory during Buffalo’s crime-addled heyday, its spacious interior offered grandiose bar with oversized oak-stained mantle, separate rear dining area near brew tanks, banquet rooms, and low-ceilinged basement bar (with billiards, video games, and jukebox).
Second floor added a wraparound patio while third and fourth floor decks provided further accommodations.
Astoundingly diversified beer selection included tangy coriander-clove-banana-sweetened efficiency Waterfront Wheat, estery grape-dabbed raisin-fig-soured Black Rock Bock, malleable dry-husked orange-sweetened mango-pineapple-passion-fruited alt bier Trainwreck Amber Ale, and dry coffee-roasted chocolate-seeded cherry-oaken Irish-styled Canal Sreet Stout. Similar in taste were musty cereal-grained wheat-fruited Fuggle-hopped Lake Effect IPA and silky-hopped stone-fruited wheat-straw American Beauty Pale Ale. The diverse selection turns over quickly so these are only a mere sampling of their many craft beers.
pearlstreetgrill.com
BROOMFIELD, COLORADO
Betwixt Denver and Boulder, Broomfield services professional businessmen with large-scale hotels, sprawling malls, and multiple eateries. CB & POTTS, one of four state chains, consumed huge freestanding red-gray-bricked high-ceilinged sports bar sojourned August ’07 (but closed for biz, 2020). Copious liquor-lavished left-hand bar, glass-encased brew tanks, and open kitchen served large lounge area, opposing family friendly dining space, and corner billiard room.
Continental cuisine went well with red-fruited orange-burnt tea-like Buttface Amber, lemon-bruised vegetal-soured Colorado Blonde, mandarin orange-soured banana-bruised lemon-soured coriander-clove-spiced solvent-finishing Big Horn Hefeweizen, and perfume-hopped wood-tinged grapefruit-embittered apple-apricot-orange-sweetened Big Red IPA.
Spice-hopped citron-trickled 71 Pale Ale got bland while softly coffee-espresso-dried walnut-dabbed Cask Porter and resigned coffee-influenced black cherry-clipped Total Disorder Porter were a tad washed out.
KEYSTONE, COLORADO
Six miles from Breckenridge, Keystone’s River Run Village featured mall shops, luxurious condominiums, and skiing trails during August ’07 dinner trek. Intimately upscale dark-lit WOLF ROCK BREWING (permanently closed 2008) had small outdoor deck, large dining facility, and midsize U-shaped mahogany bar (cornered by televisions and next to open kitchen). Wines, martinis, vodkas, bourbons, and cognacs appeased affluent patronage.
Superb elk, steak, and lamb dishes went well with brewer Cory Forster’s corn-sugared wheat-honeyed lemon-backed white-breaded Paymaster Pilsner, lemon-wedged orange-aided honey-grained Wolf Rock Wheat, and hazelnut-butternut-ensconced red-yellow-fruited Leroy Brown. So-so seasonals were black peppered chipotle-faded grain-toasted silken-hopped Montezuma Marzen and soapy banana-sweet bland-spiced Dercum’s Dunkel Weiss. Best bet: piercingly sharp pine-topped dry-hopped grapefruit-pineapple-green apple-propped International IPA.
BRECKENRIDGE / KEYSTONE, COLORADO
These two Rocky Mountain ski towns, sojourned August ’07, enjoy the bountiful libations of two highly respected brewpubs. Veritable municipal staple, BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY, has been operating since 1992 and Keystone’s prominent WOLF ROCK BREWING opened its doors a decade or so later.
Log cabin-styled loft-fronted side-decked BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY fortifies bustling Route 9-bound ski community. Central 14-seat bar fronted silver brew tanks servicing sided dining areas and left side billiards room. I had appetizers, salad, and sandwich while proficient 23-year-old brewer Drake Schmid poured many brews not bottled by Breckenridge’s Denver-based brewery.
There was grassy hay-dried oats-honeyed cereal-grained lemon-dried Pilsen 100% German Malt, grainier-than-fruity citric-spiced molasses-teased Summer Bright, citric-glazed floral-dried vegetal-finishing Trademark Pale Ale, tea-like orange-cherry-zested fig-date-vested Avalanche Ale, and astringent Cascade-hopped Breck Lite Golden Ale (with its husked maize and cracked corn parch).
Those were fine warm-ups for assertive floral-hopped orange-peeled grapefruit-embittered cherry-peach-apricot-perfumed 471 IPA and creamy black chocolate-y coffee-roasted walnut-cola-daubed chipotle-spiced espresso-finishing Oatmeal Stout.
BOULDER, COLORADO
B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE may be the country’s best chain brewpub, commencing operation as a deepdish pizza parlor in Santa Ana, California, during the nineties. Boulder’s green-exteriored version at Pearl Street Mall had small outdoor patio, front dining space, back area bar (with several beer banners and rear kettle tanks), exposed ducts, and loft dining, August ‘07. Upper tier had more kettles plus wood barrels for casking.
Drank sourly citric lemongrass-parched Kolsch-styled BJ’s Brewhouse Blonde, tangy apple-pear-grapefruit-spiced wood-dried Cascade-hopped IPA-like Piranha Pale Ale, biscuit-y caramel-malted Irish-styled Jeremiah Red Ale, and rancid lemon-soured veggie-rotted chocolate-powdered honey-dripped Drop Light Pilsner with wife and long-time pal, Phil Calitre. Better were sweet ‘n sour candied canteloupe-blueberry-peach-ripened cherry-cranberry-tart Berries & Cream and lactic milk chocolate-y malt-sugared black cherry-pureed Tatonka Imperial Stout. Dry cocoa-soured tar-tobacco-backed PM Porter retained easy crossover appeal.
BOULDER, COLORADO
For evening nightcap, August ’07, revisited old Boulder stomping ground, THE WALNUT, to munch on chicken wings and taco salad while quaffing middling brews.
Closed after a 27-year run as restaurant, The Walnut soon became a brewery, but 2017 was its last year. Located in converted red brick warehouse with outdoor deck, high-beam ceiling, and ample dining space across Boulder’s promenade, its left side bar had personalized mugs, copious alcohol, and multiple TV’s attracting sports fans.
Sampled soapy banana-clove-bubblegum-sweetened Seasonal Wheat, popcorn-like caramel-malted Cascade-hopped citric-spiced Buffalo Gold, floral-citrus-bound Indian Peaks Pale Ale, fungi-wafted hop-roasted orange-dried macadamia-tinged Old Elk Brown Ale (plus its silky banana-fig-sugared nitro version), and milk chocolate-y espresso-soured Devil’s Thumb Stout.
BOULDER, COLORADO
Opened in 2002, visited August ‘07, and closed down 2009, cool lime green-hued red-trimmed REDFISH BREWERY had spacious dimly-lit dining frontage with double garage door opening, small railed patio, chic Elvis-Dylan-Marley-Garcia paintings, dank performance space, and rear silver brew kettles.
To go with Continental cuisine and Cajun dishes (jambalaya; enchiladas; seafood gumbo), midsection bar served conventional fare such as lemon pith-soured popcorn-tinged corn-sugared Rasta Pilsner, honeyed cereal-grained Big Easy Pale Ale, phenol candied apple-doused caramel-malted Scotch-licked Riley’s Red, and buttery floral-hopped red-orange-fruited Tree Hugger Organic IPA. Creamy malt-dried coffee-roasted chocolate-vanilla-tweaked Imperial Stout may’ve bettered admirable hop-charred milk chocolate-y vanilla-sweet black cherry-tinged espresso-finishing Space Stout. Best bet: softly buttered banana-clove-candied orange-fruited hop-spiced Angry Monk Belgian Ale.
Redfish perished 2009, replaced by COLORADO BREWING COMPANY’s new recipes.
BOULDER, COLORADO
Bantam cafeteria-styled MOUNTAIN SUN, the original midtown ‘hippie’ brewpub established October ’93, had a kitsch-y blue-maroon exterior and the same affordable beer-food menu as newer Southern Sun, August ‘07. Beers are listed on green wall board beside painted half-sun murals, Grateful Dead posters, hemp wraps, and exposed pipes (with hop leaf trim). Enjoyed quaffing chewy black chocolate-y vanilla-dipped cappuccino-creamed coffee roasted hop-charred Thunderhead Stout before heading to nearby Redfish.
BOULDER, COLORADO
During August ’07, did full brewpub tour, starting at outskirts with SOUTHERN SUN (sister restaurant-brewpub of quainter Mountain Sun). Opened autumn ’03, Southern Sun’s a spacious family-oriented lodge located at Table Mesa Mall in red brick freestanding building with white grain silo, big side patio, couched lounge area, and silver brew tanks. Tomes and liquor bottles bedeck oak book shelving of left side L-shaped bar. Pub fare included nachos, hummus, soups, salads, and fabulous burgers.
Diligently skirting traditional categories, brewer Curt Meyer served tart peach-candied corn-dried biscuit-y wheat light body Quinn’s Golden Ale, Seltzer-like cherry-tart raspberry-oxidized dry-hopped Raspberry Wheat, subtle dried-fruited cereal-grained chocolate-nut-tinged wood-burnt Annapurna Amber, and banana-fronted lemony-clove clean-watered solvent-like Ruckus Witbier.
Admirably analogous were sharp spruce-juiced apple-pear-sweetened grapefruit-soured floral-tinged Colorado Kind Ale, bitterer resin-hopped peach-y grapefruit-lavished Illusion Dweller IPA, and piney Chinook-hopped candy apple-grazed orange peel-grapefruit-dried floral peach-dabbed FYIPA. Pleasant chipotle-jalapeno notes counter coffee bean dryness, chocolate seed bittering, and Kahlua murk of Isadore Java Porter while equally dry nitro-fused Old School Stout (and its more grainy tapped version) extended hop-roasted black coffee illusions to Band-aid-wafted black cherry nuance. Lacquered ginger-eucalyptus-wintergreen-freshened lemongrass-chamomile-impinged citric-hinged Jah Man Ginger tests experimentalists.
WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS
Five miles west of Boston, astonishing Waltham-based WATCH CITY BREWING opened in ’96 (but unfortunately closed a decade hence). Visited December ’07, corner café-styled pub with round town clock, high ceilings, wood furnishings, and pastoral watercolor paintings had dimestore Indian welcoming patronage to central U-shaped bar and side dining space.
Burgers, wraps, sandwiches, and dinner specials were nicely priced and rustic front brew tanks served some of the Bay State’s finest ales, courtesy of brewer Aaron Mateychuk. While phenol candy-coated cinnamon-spiced cherry coughdrop-tingled Pie-Eyed Pumpkin Ale and cinnamon-nutmeg-anise-allspiced alcohol-burnt Father Time Winter Ale brought forth seasonal pumpkin pie euphoria, the remainder were also well-defined and appropriately differentiated.
Had lamb sandwich with sourly glutinous wheat-grassy green-hopped Tick Tock Golden Ale and smoothly aerated coffee-espresso-lingered walnut-charred wood-seared Moody Street Stout. More exceptional were tangy apple-peach-ripened grapefruit rind-embittered wood-lacquered Hops Explosion IPA, creamy whiskey-bourbon-fronted yellow-fruited floral-hopped Shillelagh Irish Red Ale, and coffee-burnt fruit-dried macadamia-teased Titan Brown Ale.
Three miles south of Boston, Brighton’s Martignetti Fine Wines & Spirits had excellent bottled beer selection worth investigating.