All posts by John Fortunato

RIDGEWAY LUMP OF COAL DARK HOLIDAY STOUT


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Sadly, nebulous maroon-hued winter stout lacks expectant spicy seasonal intrigue and lusty mocha wanderlust, allowing witty Yuletide moniker to be more notable than muddled watered-down flavoring and diffuse charcoal aroma. ‘Dark Holiday’ seasonal claims to be “much more than you deserve for X-mas,” but thin roasted malting, dim chocolate-cocoa confection, concealed raisin-fig meekness, and dirty earthen whimper deaden impact. Understated hop-oiled cocoa-dried astringency blemishes dulled red-purple grape frolic, smothered pineapple-grapefruit slip, and cryptic anise snip.

(RIDGEWAY) CRIMINALLY BAD ELF BARLEYWINE

Fourth in a series behind Bad, Seriously Bad, and Very Bad Elf, hilariously labeled barleywine highlights a jailed dwarf. Boozy 10% alcohol whir and stiff brandy sniff guarantee heady rigidity justified by chewy caramel malting and bruised orange-cherry-banana sweetness countering increasingly bitter solvent-like severity. Syrupy cling peaches, rum-soaked raisins, wet tobacco, bubblegum, and vanilla decorate brown-sugared molasses sapping. It’s concentrated evil.

(RICH) OLD SLUG PORTER

Ripe citrus aroma uncanny for robust creamy-headed mahogany porter (poured slowly due to explosive yeast-saturated concentration). Wood-burnt nut-roasted black coffee bitterness, recessive lemon-bruised snip, and leafy tobacco remnant lead to brooding raisin sourness before foam-cushioned stone-dry mocha finish retains crackled charred hop fizz.