Sweet candied bock with dominant barley roast, buttery pale malting, and receding dry nuttiness. Carbolic hops fade as toasted graining battles back coarse astringency. Label claims ‘lager beer’ under bock ‘title,’ and it’s much closer to the former with its lively hops and bittersweet grains. Plus, mocha presence too light for bock class.
RIVER HORSE LAGER
Obliging malted chocolate nose and toasted almond tease reinforce wheat-cracked pale oats sweetness for lithe opening. Roasted barley backdrop underlines tobacco-leafed lemon-spiced orange pith midst and unripe apricot quip, concealing mild acidity and corruptive oxidation.
RIVER HORSE HOP HAZARD PALE ALE
Robust dry-hopped pale body contrasts sweet mocha and roasted barley against mild grassy-floral hop bitterness. Honeyed malt finish perforates mineral water lightness.
RIVER HORSE DARK HARVEST ALE
Named after Greek hippo promptly displayed on label, acceptable, if not exceptional, ruddish-hazed autumnal ale stimulates mocha richness with lively hop spicing, scaling back light crystalline sugar malting. Smoothed-over mineral grains embed wispy chocolate hints.
RIVER HORSE CREAM ALE
Despite bubbly effervescence, citrus-tinged spiciness, creamy malt elegance, and pleasant grain finish, pale reddish-hued ale remains unassuming. Easy to drink, but in need of extra umphh! Beer’s been retired since ’08.
RIVER HORSE BELGIAN FROSTBITE WINTER ALE
Ambiguous ruby amber solstice seasonal (better brewed under 2011-initiated ‘Belgian Freeze’ tag) receives maple-sugared roasted caramel facade aided promptly by heady alcoholic acidity, moldy orange souring, and earthy oak-dried black cherry finish. Drawback: lack of specific ‘Belgian’ eccentricities and unwanted tinniness.
(RIVA) VONDEL FLEMISH BROWN ALE
Rich burgundy-like 8.5% alcohol-fueled puffy-headed brown ale clusters buttery whiskey-dabbed caramel sweetness alongside sour-doughed floral-hopped nosing, pouring like a root beer float (leaving yeast sediment in its wake). Tart apple dances on tongue before exquisite barleywine influence adds further depth and complexity.
(RIVA) LUCIFER GOLDEN ALE
Frosty white-headed froth and strong alcohol whiff introduce otherwise becalmed moderate-bodied ale. Various spicy adjuncts prickle lemon-soured grapefruit tongue. Yellow-fruited hop bitterness gains prominence over slim pale malt backbone. Love that strong alcoholic finish, too.
(RIVA) DENTERGEMS WIT
Weak soft-bodied blonde wheat ale (a.k.a. Riva Blanche Belgian Ale) with bland lemon tea entry, interceptive citric acidity, and tepid soapy finish. Dull lemon-hopped fizzing barely rises above sour yeast sash.
RIO GRANDE ELFEGO-BOCK
Thin amber-hued Vienna-styled bock lager reveals vigorous mash tun scent and dank raisin sourness up-front. Then, roasted barley, toasted malts, sweet caramel, and muted chestnut carry on to sugary maltose finish for restrained cereal grained mildness.
(RINKUSKIAI) BIRZIECIY CLASSIC STOUT
Rich 8% alcohol stout rejects expectant chocolate-coffee traits for unanticipated port wine skewer. Ester-y red grape core, soured prune vestige, and minor cherry notion stabilize creamy malt foundation.
(RINKUSKIAI) BARO TRADICINI
Inoffensive clear straw lager retains dank malt sweetness and white breaded sourdough pleasantry to watered down metallic finish. Lazy barley-oats scamper recedes abruptly. Hefty 9.5% alcohol strength lost in the shuffle.