Though made in the States, minty farmhouse ale (with fluffy eggshell head, cloudy amber hue, flowery spiced hop fragrance and white wine appeal) definitely succeeds as first-rate Belgian-derived knockoff. Yellow grape esters contrast sugary banana riffs as earthen mustiness conveniently hides metallic alkaline esters. Also in the mix, sweet coriander-allspice-ginger melange, lemon meringue tartness, sweet orange peel tang and mild peppercorn jab add further complexity to voluptuously fruited vanilla creamed effervescence.
OMMEGANG CHOCOLATE INDULGENCE ALE
Impressive Belgian-styled 10th anniversary celebrator slurs collars of tan spume across glass above proud mahogany hue. Lactic malt-smoked cocoa-powdered souring boosts creamy dark chocolate froth and latent cappuccino luster. Hop-roasted burnt coffee skulk advances as cinnamon-teased vanilla spicing, dry fig-date slink, and hazelnut tinge crimp cherry cordial wisp.
OMMEGANG CAVE AGED ABBEY ALE
Cave aging gives dramatic bottle-conditioned copper-hued ‘aromatic burgundy’ ale a strangely convincing dank mildewed earthiness and mushroomed vegetal smidgen sidestepping dried fig-raisin frontage. Purple grape esters aid mild spiced grain finish as resinous hop bottom swells.
OMMEGANG BELGIAN-STYLED ABBEY ALE
Luxurious dry burgundy-like Belgian dubbel pleats spicy citric sweetness with dry earthen dankness, securing tofutti dessert profile. Sweet orange peel zest coats advertised licorice root and cumin herbage. Sugar plum, bruised banana, coriander, fig, date, anise, and ginger illusions pep up medicinal candied cherry finish of beige-headed red-wined elixir. Suitably fruity, moderately creamy, and always elegant. Barleywine fanatics will be pleased. On tap, sharper hop spritz envelops mustier dried fruited affluence.
OLFABRIKKEN PORTER
Could the best Baltic-styled porter be brewed in Denmark despite competition from the usual suspects such as Poland, Czech Republic, Russia or Lithuania? Never oily, slick, or plastic like lesser Eastern European competition, this lactic full body retains rich brown-sugared molasses-chocolate-vanilla creaminess and benefits from being un-pasteurized (enlivening the doughy yeast). Chocolate liqueur sweetness, plum wine acerbity, and vinous port tartness sidle oncoming licorice, raisin, prune, and black cherry souring. Fudge brownie finish embittered by dry tar-like black coffee counter-punch. Leathery tarp and earthen bottom fortify robust conqueror.
OLD WORLD NEW YORK STYLE WINTER WHEAT FEST ALE
Candied chocolate, cola nut, and mild prune sufficiently seduce elegant wheat-wined barleywine luster. Roasted barleymalts fade at creamy finish while waning wintry spices and lack of proper wheat punctuation hurts its ‘style.’ Brewery defunct: 2006.
OLD WORLD NEW YORK STYLE HARBOR ALE
Hearty brown ale with brawny mocha aroma, moderate grain appeal, syrupy malt texture, and slightest spiced fruit hints. Though lacking sufficient overall character (its flavor flattens by finish), delicate chocolate notes enliven bland aftertaste. Brewery defunct: 2006.
(OLD STYLE) ROYAL AMBER NON-ALCOHOLIC MALT BREW
Mired by dry rye desolation and wheat bread doldrums, murky non-alcoholic beer flattens to perfunctory sourdough finish as sagging toasted malts vanish. This trite brew is now defunct.
(WHIM ALES) OLD IZAAK TRADITIONAL ENGLISH ALE
(AAA) OLD GOAT DUNKLES WEIZEN
Rich dark-browned German-styled dunkleweizen brings oily coffee murk and caramel malted richness to mild rye wheat spine. Sticky yeast residue at glass bottom approves its robustness. Recessive date-fig tones coat back-tongue. A hint of mint completes the score. Finding beer label proved difficult, but AAA’s Kristal Weizen was available (to left). Brewery defunct: 2005.
(AAA) OLD GOAT DARK WHEAT BEER
Suitable ink black-hued, tan-headed dark beer fashioned after Bavarian wiesse. But dry-bodied cola palate, perky hop snap, and sweet barley crackle put it closer to well-rounded brown ale than distinguished German wheat. Brewery defunct: 2005.
(OLDE SARATOGA) WIEDENMAYER JERSEY LAGER
Contract brewed Bavarian-styled ‘festival beer’ revives German immigrants’ ancient recipe. Corn sugared malting tenders toasted honey nut, Graham cracker, biscuit-y wheat, and fluctuant almond tones plus ripe apple-pear-apricot overture bracing salted hop fizz to dry birch finish, bettering most mainstream lagers.